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New to muzzleloader..


TPat032
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Did he give you anything with it? You can rack up some $ real quick with all the cleaning supplies, primers, bullets, powder, measurer, speed loaders, etc. I bought a CVA .50 cal off a buddy for $75 and then ended up spending about $150 in all the supplies.

 

I recommend picking up an accessory kit and watching some youtube videos on proper cleaning and loading.  Also, you should be able to download an owners manual for it if you dont have it already.

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Did he give you anything with it? You can rack up some $ real quick with all the cleaning supplies, primers, bullets, powder, measurer, speed loaders, etc. I bought a CVA .50 cal off a buddy for $75 and then ended up spending about $150 in all the supplies.

I recommend picking up an accessory kit and watching some youtube videos on proper cleaning and loading. Also, you should be able to download an owners manual for it if you dont have it already.

I didn't get anything with it. He's never used it. I will go online and get owners guide.
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i would go with loose powder over pellets, you can really dial in a fantastic load and have accurate power charges. pellets though listed at 50 grain can weigh in from 43-53.. does it make a difference? yes. i have 12 different muzzleloaders and they all shoot different loads and different bullets to get the best group. speed loaders are as fast as pellets and a good short starter is a must. minimum charge to start and familiarize your self with the gun 50 grain for a 50 cal. sight it in for windage with this and a few in low (4in or so at 50 yards is enough. a 5 grain increase will raise bullet elevation approx 1 in at 50 yards.. you should hear a distinct crack when you hit your maximum charge (more powder than nessary and you will get a lot of flame and fouling out you barrel (your not burning all your powder and wasting $$$) most guns shoot well between 85 and 110 grain. bullet /sabot depend on twist of your barrel.. fast twist shoot conicals or sabots, slow twist roundball and patch. ( though you can shoot a round ball out of fast twist if you decrease powercharge so ball doesnt strip in rifling).

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Assuming you're going to hunt with a clean cold barrel. Between each shot at range pull breech plug and stuff some damp patches with ram rod until you get no residue on patch. 

Be careful with mounting optics and having full clearance of getting your thumb on the hammer with gloves under your scope. I should have used a higher mount but usually hunt without gloves so I can get away with it easier. 

Don't assume one brand of 250 grain sabots will be spot on if sighted in with another brand of 250 grain sabots. I just switched brands and 18 " difference at 50 yards. Lots of work had to be done to dial it in. 

You can load ML with powder and sabot without primer and have in vehicle. It's not "loaded " until primer is put in. On that note: after season do not leave in powder and sabot in gun. Made that mistake too. Lots of elbow grease was needed to clean out around breach area of barrel .

I love my smokepole. Probably going to see more woods than my slug guns this year during shotgun season. 

I don't own one but brother has a scope with ballistic range markings on it. He loves it.

Funny but true, good luck at seeing reaction on deer after you pull the trigger. POOF ! Big cloud of white smoke. I killed a nice 9 point first year I hunted with it (my best deer to date) .I touched it off and no idea if I hit it or not, nor which direction he may have gone. Well the snow showed it all. 

 

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