Arrow recommendations

[mlammerhirt]

Are you going to order and build your arrows or get them from a shop......if you are going the shop route only buy a 1/2 dozen at a time to see what you like.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Edited June 29, 2016 by mlammerhirt

[stoneam2006]

Are you going to order and build your arrows or get them from a shop......if you are going the shop route only buy a 1/2 dozen at a time to see what you like.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Good point as I will be buying at shop and having them assemble and what not

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

[moog5050]

From a compound with a rest, you are better off being stiff. Weak will not group as well and you don't have to worry about clearing the riser. I would suggest 340 or 350 spine cut to 28.5 or 29. 100 or 125g heads will be fine. I personally like Easton FMJs but axis are good and less money.

[DirtTime]

I'm old school paranoid about arrow length. I have never and never will draw a razor blade behind my wrist. So I have always shot an inch or so longer then my draw. That's my personal demon, but I have never had an issue. I also prefer a little heft over speed. Always shot 125 grain tips and broad heads. The slight amount of speed I loose is acceptable for a little better kinetic energy at POI. But, this is just the way I do things.

 

Try a few different arrows and broad heads and see what you feel is the best for you. 

[Jeremy K]

I bought a half dozen easton axis a few months ago ,I've had a few blazers fall off and I just had one that the wrap slid back over the nock. I love my hexs but my for next hunting arrow I'm gonna something other then the axis.

[Jeremy K]

Yea I've run alot of machines in plant I'm in now. Just happen to be on a horizontal spindle 5 axis not...my favorite is horizontal spindle manual mills like old G&Ls...what you run?

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

I ran manual lathe/mill/surface grinder my first 5 years and then went on to start building plastic injection molds ,used the manuals as well as the haas and 3 axis sinker and learned mastercam along the way to program and design . I was fortunate enough to work in a small job under 2 really smart guys while I was doing my apprenticeship.

[stoneam2006]

Heck yea nice list

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

[dbHunterNY]

i'm late... here's my take.....

for most accurately selecting arrows with the correct spine you need to know arrow shaft length, draw weight, arrow point/broadhead weight, and brace height of your bow.  over draw isn't really a factor as much any more and it's assumed you're using a release and not shooting with fingers.  otherwise those last couple would also come into play.

​you have to look at the manufacturer.  for most the spine say 400 means that under a certain set of conditions the shaft will flex 0.400".  however, carbon express that's not that case.  their 250 shafts are equivalent to others 400 shafts.  you've just got to look at what their actual spine is that's all.

 

better too stiff than too light especially with shooting a fixed blade broadhead, as blades work like wings and do more to flex the shaft than a field point.  brace heights under 6.5" is like adding 5 lbs of draw weight to your bow when selecting a shaft.  then the base line for point weight is 100 grains.  for each 25 grains over that, add 3 lbs to your draw weight when looking at a chart.

 

your fingers shouldn't be anywhere near the path of the broadhead,  if they are your grip is wrong or your forcing your fingers open.  don't do that.  hand and fingers should be limp with wrist locked back for a solid seating of the outer grip edge into the life line on your hand.

 

light arrows and speed does mean more energy, but for penetration and quietness weight is your friend.  my compound hunting bows run around 6-6.5 grains of finished arrow weight per pound of draw weight.  I usually get entry and exit holes.  more often a pass through.  some shoot more and some less but that's worked for me.

 

assuming your 100gr head, 29" arrow shaft, and bow brace height not under 6.5" you can shoot a 0.400" spine shaft.  anything to make that worse and you're into a 0.340" spine arrow shaft.

Edited June 29, 2016 by dbHunterNY

[NFA-ADK]

28.5 draw

65 lbs

 

I am shooting ICS Hunter Pro in 400 Grain at 8.1 GPI it's a good arrow.   Plenty to choose from, better ones are usually a little more expensive but not always needed. 

[Bowguy 1]

If you have limited knowledge a trip to pro shop is in order. Spine changes as guys have informed you by length, also by how radical cam is or isn't, obviously the weight. I'm thinking you don't know for sure weight? Did you personally weigh bow? Has the bow been checked for safety, as in missing eclips, worn strings or cables, cracked parts? If not take a ride

[Jeremy K]

I was doing some shooting tonight and out of the half dozen Easton Axis i just bought ,3 of the wraps have pulled back over the nocks , the guy i bought them from will fix them at no cost but maybe stay away from the Axis.