HUNT6246

You might check out the golf course at the Holiday Valley Ski Area in Ellicottville, I believe it's open to the public. I don't golf anymore so don't have any additional information.

I have't camped at the Quaker Area in several years. But, make sure to check out the bear caves and Thunder Rocks with the family. The park headquarters used to have a small but interesting museum. Trail #3 at the south end of the park near Science Lake is an interesting loop to hike with the family and could take a couple of hours. Trout fishing can be fair at sometimes but probably not too good in July. There should be fishing and swimming on Quaker Lake near your campground. It used to be fun to spotlight deer at night but there were a lot more deer years ago than what's there now. I haven't visited the casino near Salamanca but that may be interesting. Ellicotville to the north often has events going on too.

I've done two things that work well for me. One is to use two pairs of light gloves. Put one pair on and put one of the handwarmers on the back of each hand and then put another light glove over that to hold the chemical hand warmer in place. I've used the military surplus wool gloves and they work quite well. Or use a synthetic glove next to your skin instead. The other thing that I've done is to make a set of Wooly Boogers from a piece of tanned sheepskin with the wool on. They are like oversized wool mitts with no thumbs, with the raw wool on the inside and the leather hide on the outside. Put these on a string around your waist so that when you shuck them off your hands they fall behind you, out of the way if shooting a bow. They used to be available through Screaming Eagle but we made our own. Very happy with these for very cold weather. You can also put a handwarmer in these if needed.

I used a 'Screaming Eagle' stand that I was very happy with. I bought it many years ago; try their website at http://www.e-screamingeagle.com . Large platform, flip up seat, seat position is high so you're not sitting too low. Stand is heavy, but they used to advertise it by hanging a Volkswaggon from it. I'd highly recommend it for size & strength. Cost used to be around $125, and they had a smaller Eaglet version if you're interested in a slightly small version

Little Ridge Archery on Rt. 104 (North of Middleport) is a very good shop to check out. Just depends on what shop is close to you. Johnson's in Lockport and Valenti's on Chesnut Ridge are OK too.

I have pre-made, carbon arrows. Is there a way I can get the present inserts out? If the arrows were aluminum, heat would work but I don't know a way with carbon. I'd really need a 25 gr. insert if I was going to use a 125 gr. broadhead (to total 150grs). So far I haven't found and 25gr. inserts and suggestions?

I like the Montecs. Where do you find the 25 gr. washers? Thanks.

I recently purchased an Excalibur Ibex for use on an out of state hunt (for antelope) in September. Excalibur recommends use of 150 gr. fixed blade broadheads or their expandables. I purchased their fixed blade heads and they look a lot like 'Muzzys', but after buying them I find that they probably aren't easily re-sharpened, and so far I haven't been able to find replacement blades. They may be going back to the store. Does anyone have suggestions for other 150 gr. fixed blade heads - preferably cut on inpact? Or, their expandables look interesting in that they don't need any rubber bands etc. to keep them closed. But, I'm a real bug on being able to get replacement blades and to be able to sharpen them if necessary so that they are 'scarey sharp'. I have to research this whole topic a bit more but am looking for any suggestions for mechanical heads based on actual experience. Thank you!

I have a T/C Triumph and am having trouble loading as well due to a tight bore. I've gone with a 240 gr. Barnes slug and a Harvester sabot. They are firm to load and I have to clean between shots. I've shot the Powerbelts and have had very good accuracy. They were nice to load and wouldn't fall out. I didn't use them because I'd heard of performance problems. Good thing - Late during muzzle loader season, my son shot a deer with a Powerbelt. The slug entered near the right front shoulder, traveled the length of the deer, broke the left leg near the hip and stopped before exiting. Other than the front tip breaking off and the rear skirt being gone, the bullet showed no deformation whatsoever. Personally I'd look for another bullet to use. Good luck.

After hearing all the claims and having read about them in several magazines, I bought one this year and initially had accuracy problems with it. I've heard of a few others with similar issues. I swabbed it out with JB bore cleaner (100 strokes) and the accuracy came in real good. I tried several sizes and brands of slugs and got my best accuracy with the 3" Remington Accutips. Groups right around 1 1/4" at 100 yds off of a bench rest. The only thing I don't like is the bolt handle is real close to the scope. I can't use my rear scope cap without turning them at a wierd angle or else the bolt handle will hit the scope cap release button (left handed gun). Very satisfied with everything else though.

In the outside of the hull use a McGuire three part cleaner, restorer & wax. It all comes together in one box. I used it for years, it's a lot of work but will do wonders for the appearance of the outside. If you can use a power buffer that will work good. On the deck and inside flat surfaces try a mildly abrasive cleaner, some bleech and Simple Green. If you can find an old powered floor buffer with brushes to apply it with, that works good too.

For cleaning the breach plug on my Triumph, I believe I'm using a 1/8" diameter (long) drill bit. I prefer the long bit, because I can hang onto it easier when the gun is open and working around the scope without having to remove the breach plug. A pipe cleaner doubled may work in a pinch. Then for the smaller flash hole, I purchased a torch cleaning device from alocal welding supply company (less than $5). It has several wires wires of different diameters in it. They are roughened almost like a file. I believe it is the #3 wire (smallest to largest) that I use to clean the smallest diameter hole in the breachplug. The torch cleaner is probalby easier to hold on to than a small drill bit would be. It's also easier to keep track or and less likely to get lost. I hope this helps!

I've asked the same question on another posting band did get a very good response. At the range, I used a patch lightly lubed with Hoppes #9 followed by one dry patch. Haven't had to worry about cleaning between shots yet in the field. I haven't seen any deer!

110 gr. by volume is supposed to equal 77 grains by weight. However, that (110gr) volume didn't work out quite to 77 grains by weight with my (volumetric) measure vs. my scale. I just used 77 gr. on my scale to keep things consistent. This amount shot well in my T/C Triumph with Barnes bullets and Harvester sabots but I still had to swab between shots for best accuracy.

I looked at some of the zero turn mowers. I didn't find any electric riding models that seemed to offer any advantage over the Action Track Chair. Also, many of the zero turn mowers seemed to have outrigger type front wheels that could be an obstacle to getting around through the brush. I put one of the ATC's on order and now expect delivery in mid-Dec. Probably will get here too late for anything but maybe the last couple days of muzzleloader season but, at least I'll have it for turkeys come May. Thanks all for the input!