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What knives do you use?


dbHunterNY
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One thing about Dexter Russell and Russell International, Internationals are imported cheaper grade steel not as good as Dexter Russell and if you can take care of them neither is as good as the beech handle high carbon Dexters fro holding an edge. I have a homemade knife ground out of a file by a machinist. Have to dig that oneout

 

A knife made out of a file is pretty good if made in the 50's to 70's after that all of the good US steel producers are no longer around.

We made them out of old large power hacksaw blades that were 3/16" thick x 3' long, full hard  tool steel not the hardened edge blades that the sell now. Or we would use A6 tool steel one of the best steels when hardened and tempered right for holding an edge.Made a few out of 440 SS. too for people that wanted them, But I am not a fan of SS for cutting.

Just ordered a Wusthof 12" slicer for myself for Xmass,.

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I have the victorinox boning knife, really sharp at first but got dull pretty quick. could be my own fault for not hitting it with the steel enough. still think its a good knife for the price, just gotta take care of it better than I did
my knives came razor sharp. I use the Steele often and have resharpended it one because it lost its edge bad. I ran into the same problem you did... I don't think they have the edge they did in the beginning anymore, they are sharp but not like they used to be.
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That is why as I mentioned in an earlier post My father in law ( butcher by profession ) would touch up his knives every few cuts of meat with a steel.

If you look at the sharpening websites,after sharpening with various grit stones 1000 to 10000  they recommend going over with a steel to remove the burr.I use a leather strop, and they are razor sharp.

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so I tested them out cutting up two deer (close to 120 pounds of very clean meat).  boned them out and used the knives for prepping and cleaning the different cuts for packaging.  the Dexter Russell softgrip knives seemed to work very well.  I always keep a small tub of slightly soapy water to wash them after a little while.  i keep a cheap carbide/ceramic "v" sharpener from Smith's in it.  sharpen the knife in the soapy water with the ceramic does a darn good job.  I found I could bone out a whole deer without too much need for sharpening, this was brand new from the package.  only the one flexible knife was used.  they both were about razor sharp out of the package.  I could hold a sheet of paper in front of me and slice sections cleanly off horizontally until I was at the end of the sheet with only a strip left.  once I got to prepping the cuts for packaging I noticed it helped to touch them up a few times.  that was more toward the end when cutting through silver skin and fiber like muscle tissues to make strips for the grinder.  when you're trimming around that stuff, cutting only meat they don't dull that quick at all I think.  for $19 each i think they sharpen well and hold an edge long enough for the money and not to be a burden.  I'd recommend them or buy them again.

 

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That is why as I mentioned in an earlier post My father in law ( butcher by profession ) would touch up his knives every few cuts of meat with a steel.

If you look at the sharpening websites,after sharpening with various grit stones 1000 to 10000  they recommend going over with a steel to remove the burr.I use a leather strop, and they are razor sharp.

 

the leather with some honing compound would finish to a nice edge and get the microscopic ribbon burr off.  tough to keep them kind of edge though.

 

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the leather with some honing compound would finish to a nice edge and get the microscopic ribbon burr off. tough to keep them kind of edge though.

A quality steel would hold a sharper angle longer and would benefit from honing and stropping. For a lesser quality steel, I'd go for a larger angle to aid in edge retention.

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I see a lot of comments on knives losing an edge, makes me wonder how you guys are washing your knives. If you are just wiping it down and throwing it in the dishwasher don't ever expect to keep an edge. It's no different than pressure washing, the high power water and sand like cascade or any other soap brand will destroy an edge after one cycle. After every use I wash mine in soap and water, dry it, hit it with a steel and back into the case with an edge guard. No sense in spending big money on good knives if they aren't properly cared for. My wife washed my boning knife in the dishwasher once, took damn near an hour on the tri-stone to get it back.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by Kot2B
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I have used a 1" wide piece of leather that I coat with polishing rouge for years on all of my knives after stoning them some are home made out of some of the best tool steels available, some are German made, some are Swiss made and one Jap. made.

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The teak knife blocks are edge killers. Wiping the edge on that sand impregnated teak will surely dull a blade. I made a cutting board for my boat in teak. What a mistake. It looked primo but cut bait or a fish and you were left with one dull piece of steel.

Better to scale fish with than cut it!

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i always hand wash my knives and dry them right after.  we've got JA Henkels knives in a block i even do they go right back in the block they came with.  my boning knives i just bought I'm keeping in the plastic packaging they came with.  it snaps back together to hold the handle and isolate/protect the blade enough.

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  • 8 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I have a 5 inch boning knife for the bigger cuts, and a filet knife for everything else. Both are inexpensive and do the job. Sure, i might spend a tad more time sharpening but im cheap and i cant bring myself to buy an expensive knife. I did once and took it back and returned it before i opened it. Just couldnt do it.

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Funny store about my knife (which I will try and keep short):

 

I have a really nice Buck knife that I paid some good money for.  I have had it for years and years.  Its a great knife....kinda.

 

On my last Mule Deer hunt in Utah, i shot a nice 4x4 literally miles from anywhere.  I had to gut and quarter it to pack it back to camp.  Wipped out my Buck knife, went to work and the goddamn blade snapped in half just as i started quartering!!  What do you do!  thankfully I carry a back-up knife....a $7.00 "feebie" that my company bought a pile of for a trade show give-a-way.  Literally a made in China cheap knife.   Ya, know what, that knife skinned and quartered that entire deer and was still sharp!  Who would have thunk!

 

I will say though, after writing a letter to Buck in my dissapointment, they have very good customer service and sent me a brand new knife for free.

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If someone is looking for a very good cheap knife for the field, this is it.  I have better and more expensive knives, but there is nothing wrong with this Swedish made knife.  Would make a great backup knife for sure.  It's amazingly good for the very low price you can get it for.  Other knives at this price range are usually complete junk.

 

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MORA-OF-SWEDEN-11863-840MG-COMPANION-MG-CARBON-STEEL-BLADE-KNIFE-/231190464671?pt=Collectible_Knives&hash=item35d406889f

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  • 2 months later...

My first and still best knife was given to me when I turned 13 and I will be 53 in March and it has Gutted, Skinned and Boned many, many deer is my Buck 110 it has always held a very sharp edge and also been sharpened after every deer.

 

My second knife is an Uncle Henry Scharde Filet which is always sharp and always sharpened.

 

If you keep your knives sharp it is very to maintain an edge, it is when you neglect to keep them sharp, abuse misuse them like a screwdriver   

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Knife I had made for me by Denn Handmade Knives in the ADK's... every part of the knife is from NY... ADK deer antler.. hand forged and finished blade.. the handmade leather sheath even has a stamp of a deer hoof made form a 100 year old ADK railroad spike.

 

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