Jump to content

This *&@#% Weather is Making My Rifle RUST!


Recommended Posts

3 hours ago, wildcat junkie said:

I think I'll boil it for a while after supper.

 

1 hour ago, Dinsdale said:

Sounds like a good idea.^_^

MAUSER SOUP!

How long do you usually cook one of these?

DSC05172_zpsutwhylu0.jpg

 

 

Hmm I wonder if it's done yet?

DSC05173_zps6bekjsxy.jpg

 

Stick a fork in it I think it's done!

DSC05174_zpsgavis7qy.jpg

 

I hope I can get all this rust off!

DSC05175_zps9c6hkk47.jpg

DSC05177_zpsjvmh9mth.jpg

DSC05178_zpske8zj97g.jpg

 

Phew, I hope it doesn't start rusting again! Wouldn't that be awful? :sorry:

1 hour ago, Travis46 said:

RE blue it.  not hard to do and cheap

How would I go about that?.  ^_^

Edited by wildcat junkie
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Check out birchwood Casey perma blue kit.  I'm sure there are YouTube videos showing the process to make the instructions more clear.  it's not as good or as strong as "hot bluing" done by a professional, but better than nothing  

Edited by Travis46
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, a few of you caught on right off & I'm sure some others have figured it out by now. I appreciate the helpful advice given on how to prevent future rusting. However, the fact is, the rust is intentional and the damp miserable weather has been a great help in my efforts to apply a "slow rust blue" finish to my rifle.

 

"Rust bluing" is a very desirable finish for several reasons. 

  1. It can be applied to firearms that have soft soldered assemblies such as barrels band swivel studs or sights. High end English double barrel shotguns & rifles are rust blued for that very reason since the barrels are soft soldered together to allow precise "regulation" of patterns or POI. Hot tank bluing with salts would attack the solder.
  2. It is extremely durable since the finish is micro etched into the surface. It is much more durable than conventional hot tank bluing & vastly more durable than the various "cold" blues.
  3. It gives a subtle, rich dark charcoal gray satin finish.
  4. It can be done with a minimal amount of investment in tools & supplies. I bought the boiling tank pictured since I have done 2 and intend to do several more firearms. (I didn't know about the steam pipe method either) A stem pipe can be fabricated for about $30 bringing your total investment to less than $50 for the solution & tools.It is not technically difficult, but it takes a lot of time/work over the course of several days.
  5. The drawback is the time & effort involved but the satisfaction of a DIY bluing technique that is used on high end firearms that cost 5 or even 5 figure$ makes it all worthwhile.

Below is a link that shows how to fabricate a stream pipe from cheap, easily acquired materials.

http://www.rustblue.com/blog/why-should-you-steam-rather-than-boil/

 

Another link to a tutorial about rust bluing. It is not necessary to use distilled water as I get good results from either my softened or non-softened well water.  The warm box isn't needed in damp either & the parts can be hung in a corner of the bathroom in drier conditions. (an understanding wife/hubbie helps here)

 

Also, Brownells sells their own brand of rust bluing solution that is less than 1/2 the price of the "Pilkingtons". There will be enough solution to do 2 rifles if you don't waste the product.

http://shop.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/metal-bluing/specialty-bluing-chemicals/classic-rust-blue-sku082000010-22820-48994.aspx?cm_mmc=PPC-_-Itwine-_-Google-_-082-000-010&gclid=CJjT6t2chdACFcEmhgodWhEBQw

 

I took some pictures of the progress of color as the bolt was rusted/boiled/carded. I only had enough solution for 3 cycles, but it came out a nice rich dark charcoal gray.

Since I only wanted to blue the portion of the bolt that was visible behind the rear bridge, I used "frog tape" to protect the polished finish on the rest of the bolt.

This picture is after the 1st rust application. I usually leave the 1st application on for 24 hours to get a good etch into the surface.

DSC05200_zpst9cr1xvz.jpg

 

Small parts are boiled for 30 minutes on top of the stove in a SS kettle. SS allows the kettle to be returned to cooking duties afterward. (again, an understanding significant other helps)

DSC05202_zpsbe61pomw.jpg

 

Here is what the parts will look like after boiling. They will turn black, but may have a dark chocolate brown appearance sometimes. Do not be concerned as the metal will not be brown under the surface once the film is carded off.

DSC05203_zpsjnpwy9ji.jpg

 

This is how the bolt looked after 1 "cycle". Notice it has taken on a medium gray color. (The bolt knob is the easiest place to gauge the color change)

DSC05205_zpsvkrnut5q.jpg

 

On the second rust cycle, I reduce the rust time to 12 hours to prevent pitting.

DSC05206_zpstu600u9g.jpg

 

Note the deeper gray color after carding the 2nd rust/boil.

DSC05207_zpsdglxs2ix.jpg

 

The 3rd rust cycle.

DSC05208_zpscheiphnm.jpg

 

And the darker color that results. I would have done another cycle or 2 but I was running out of solution & time. It is still a very deep charcoal gray under natural light.

DSC05210_zpshxfjjhii.jpg

 

The competed bolt assembly with the Dakota Arms 3-position Model 70 type safety.

DSC05215_zpspbxnh84c.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...