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Kitchen floor help


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The hack that I hired to put up my backsplash screwed up the grout and when faced with removing it he bailed on us. I opted to  tear it all out, new dry wall, new backsplash. I think it cost us an extra $600 or so and a ton of time and effort. Moral of the story: if you pay peanuts you get monkeys. We used a pro to put the new tile up

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10 minutes ago, TreeGuy said:

 


Second. Typically speaking there are two reasons grout cracks , 1 is that the floor /tile is loose (most common). Typically if mortar or subfloor is not done correctly the tile will shift and crack the grout. 2 is that the grout was not installed correctly, but if you say it's the only spot I'll have to assume it's #1 meaning the tile is prob loose. T
 

 

I've seen it happen like this with grout issues as well. Retempering of grout, using that last little bit that got away from them. poor mixing with additives.  I've seen it pop and the tile adhesion be fine.  

Edited by Culvercreek hunt club
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The tile does not feel lose. I have no idea who redid the bathroom. It was done several years before I bought the house. I plan to just fill the emptiness and hope to match the best I can.


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14 minutes ago, Biz-R-OWorld said:

The tile does not feel lose. I have no idea who redid the bathroom. It was done several years before I bought the house. I plan to just fill the emptiness and hope to match the best I can.


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And I bet that except for you and your wife not a soul will notice one bit. 

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And I bet that except for you and your wife not a soul will notice one bit. 


Yea probably not since it's pretty close to sink and with the window and 3 separate lights in the bathroom there are also shadows, etc.


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As long as we're derailed... I just had the flooring in a smallish kitchen and adjacent laundry room re-floored. After a lot of thought and online research, went with a vinyl flooring that looks like wood planks (Pergo-ish). The vinyl is truly water-resistant as opposed to the best wood (composite) planks that boast only 24hr resistance. Also cost about the same as the water-resistant Pergo, ~$2.80/sq'. The specific vinyl style I chose was 5.5mm thick, so it was more forgiving to any sub-flooring irregularities. The guy that installed my flooring even had to transition from 3/8" to 1/2" sub-flooring between rooms by using a plaster sort of ramp transition area. Can't even see or feel the difference or transition. BTW - The specific brand of vinyl flooring I used even comes in some stone look patterns in the lock together, free floating floor planks. Probably not appropriate for a bathroom, but for the occasional smaller water spills in a kitchen or laundry room it should work fine. Just a suggestion...!

Edited by nyslowhand
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3 hours ago, nyslowhand said:

As long as we're derailed... I just had the flooring in a smallish kitchen and adjacent laundry room re-floored. After a lot of thought and online research, went with a vinyl flooring that looks like wood planks (Pergo-ish). The vinyl is truly water-resistant as opposed to the best wood (composite) planks that boast only 24hr resistance. Also cost about the same as the water-resistant Pergo, ~$2.80/sq'. The specific vinyl style I chose was 5.5mm thick, so it was more forgiving to any sub-flooring irregularities. The guy that installed my flooring even had to transition from 3/8" to 1/2" sub-flooring between rooms by using a plaster sort of ramp transition area. Can't even see or feel the difference or transition. BTW - The specific brand of vinyl flooring I used even comes in some stone look patterns in the lock together, free floating floor planks. Probably not appropriate for a bathroom, but for the occasional smaller water spills in a kitchen or laundry room it should work fine. Just a suggestion...!

I used something similar in the bathroom in my cabin. It's 7 years old and looks great also water tight!

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15 hours ago, Biz-R-OWorld said:

 


Yea probably not since it's pretty close to sink and with the window and 3 separate lights in the bathroom there are also shadows, etc.


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If I had to guess as to the cause, I'd say the installer just didn't get the grouting done correctly. They didn't get it squished in to fill the space between the tiles, but ended up with a flimsy 'skin' of grout over the space that then failed.

As far as matching the color, chip out a very small piece of the existing and take it to a good tile supplier. It won't be perfect, but they'll get it close.

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If I had to guess as to the cause, I'd say the installer just didn't get the grouting done correctly. They didn't get it squished in to fill the space between the tiles, but ended up with a flimsy 'skin' of grout over the space that then failed.
As far as matching the color, chip out a very small piece of the existing and take it to a good tile supplier. It won't be perfect, but they'll get it close.


I was just going to go to Home Depot. There are strictly tile stores?


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1 hour ago, Biz-R-OWorld said:

 


I was just going to go to Home Depot. There are strictly tile stores?


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There are some specialty shops. There are actually two in my little city of 16,000 people. I know of them because I use them, so they do exist. Maybe check the yellow pages on line, or ask for names in the local hardware store?

It's like matching paint color. There are ways to get it very, very close, and there are people who know how to do it. Just a suggestion.

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