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Tuning question,again...


BowmanMike
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2 hours ago, moog5050 said:

Yes, move the d looP down.  With a compound shooting a release, usually you want the arrow at 90 degrees to the string at rest or up to 1/8” high of 90 degrees. Bow square would help but trying moving it down some. 

Thanks,i used a square to try to align it. Hard to get a real good reading,but i will lower it a little more...

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This tuning stuff is beyond me. i moved the d loop down and the arrow path turned wonky. i moved it quite a bit,and it was bad. then i kept moving it back up in increments and the best result i can get is 3" down for the BH below the FP.

Would turning the poundage on just the top arm up a little do anything?

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This tuning stuff is beyond me. i moved the d loop down and the arrow path turned wonky. i moved it quite a bit,and it was bad. then i kept moving it back up in increments and the best result i can get is 3" down for the BH below the FP.
Would turning the poundage on just the top arm up a little do anything?

You can tune the WB a little bit up or down to make small adjustments. It will be a at a little angle but that won’t bother anything.

I don’t use Broadhead tuning and only worry about paper tuning. Broadhead tunings can drive you nuts! Once a bow is properly paper tuned I have yet to see one not shoot Broadhead and field points perfectly unless something is wrong with fletching or Broadhead.


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tiller? Maybe i shouldn't be messing with this stuff. 

And i tried to adjust my WB,but it just goes side to side,unless i can maybe get a shim in there. The arrow is almost 90° to the string,just a tad higher at nock point than the rest. The WB hole is oval from wear,i shot well over a thousand arrows through it. I think i might try to take it to the shop,maybe i need a new rest. This is a low end bow as well,i bought the bear cruzer combo,super adjustable for draw length and #. My starter bow,and i dont want to put much $ into it. I would like to buy a nice used one for next year.

Weird thing is that i had different arrows before and they placed great ,even though the bow was not tuned well.

Edited by BowmanMike
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If the bow is set up right and level I would leave it and adjust the sight.  Sometimes a level tool will do or testing with paper tune or even better both.  Otherwise I usually see broadheads hit lower for some reason 4 inches seems excessive.  JMO I am not bow tune expert.  

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21 minutes ago, NFA-ADK said:

If the bow is set up right and level I would leave it and adjust the sight.  Sometimes a level tool will do or testing with paper tune or even better both.  Otherwise I usually see broadheads hit lower for some reason 4 inches seems excessive.  JMO I am not bow tune expert.  

As long as the rest is square, first thing I'd do is lower the sight pin a bit. That will bring your POI up to where you want it. Nice call NFA-ADK.

 

 

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thanks for the input folks,i will keep you posted with my progress or degress.

I might just bump the sight pin down a tad,since the arrows are consistently hitting 3-4" low. Would be nice if i didnt have to resort to that. 

But i have realized by now that things are not always perfect,haha.

Edited by BowmanMike
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I would take it to a shop first and have them check the timing, tiller, loop and the rest. Once everything is where it should be, then paper tune it. The arrows may still hit the same spot if it's not paper tuned correctly, but they may be flying a little funny and you'll never notice it until you put on a broadhead.

When you paper tune it, it may be necessary to make small adjustments to the rest. Not all bows like everything perfectly inline or square to the string.

I would by a different whisker bisquit that allows vertical adjustment. You can get the kill zone for about $30. Once you get it paper tuned, try your broadheads again. 

I found that the Montecs flew the best for me. I tried thunderheads, Muzzys, slick tricks, and interlocks. At 30 yds they hit exactly the same as my field tips. 

Also, nobody can paper tune the bow for you. A shop can set it up, but you need to shoot it to dial it in. Small changes in how you hold the bow can affect how it shoots. 

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Usually don’t recommend this but, don’t chase the tuning and just adjust the sights. 

As long as you limit your shooting distance having it tuned to a T is not worth the head ache for you because you are new at it and replacing the bow next year. 

This from a guy that is obsessed with having his bow tuned as good as he can get it on his own. 

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3 hours ago, Doewhacker said:

Usually don’t recommend this but, don’t chase the tuning and just adjust the sights. 

As long as you limit your shooting distance having it tuned to a T is not worth the head ache for you because you are new at it and replacing the bow next year. 

This from a guy that is obsessed with having his bow tuned as good as he can get it on his own. 

As much as I refuse to accept BHs not hitting with FPs during tuning, given your plans and the timing of opening day, this seems to be the most reasonable thing to do.  Silly question, but I assume your BHs weigh the same as the FPs?

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i tried again today and the best i can get is a 3" difference at 20 yds. If the guy at the shop has time i will have him check it out..BH and FP are 100 grain.

Maybe he has a nice used bow there,i would not be afraid to get one this late in the game. I feel my form is good,i get great groups with the field points.

I was hoping to maybe be able to get three deer with my bow. Got my muzzle tag and a dmp. I will be out early October,but mostly to be out.

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9 hours ago, BowmanMike said:

i tried again today and the best i can get is a 3" difference at 20 yds. If the guy at the shop has time i will have him check it out..BH and FP are 100 grain.

Maybe he has a nice used bow there,i would not be afraid to get one this late in the game. I feel my form is good,i get great groups with the field points.

I was hoping to maybe be able to get three deer with my bow. Got my muzzle tag and a dmp. I will be out early October,but mostly to be out.

Are the broadheads grouping?

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