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Height for windows in raised deer blind?


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7 hours ago, GreenDrake said:

I place the base on the ground with the top side down. Then slide poles in the holders and put on cross-braces. I used treated deck boards for cross braces as you can place them on the same side of the posts and they are flexible enough bypass each other in the middle. I use structural deck screws to secure them. Once the braces are on I tip it down....with the front of the base and front legs down on the ground....place them where you want them to be when erect,,,then I just lift the base and walk it up. You can usually move each leg around to its final spot. I then level it by digging under the posts until it is level. Once level, tether it tightly. Then I carry the wall sections up and secure them to the base and each other. I have only had one stand blow over as it was in a high wind area and not properly tethered. Piece of cake and no machinery needed. I build the ladder once it is all in place b/c you will get the proper length, etc in the event the ground is uneven. I can now erect one in less than an hour.

Thank you very much for the info dude!

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If you are going to build more of them in the future, you may want to scrap using treated 2x4 for framing with the exception of the sill plate. Much heavier than regular 2 x 4 and since I have used both, neither is holding up better than the other. I stained the interior and they are like new AND mine are open to weather all year. The savings in lumber is huge. I have also build 2 using 2 x 3's.....lighter.....and hold up just fine. I even used plain CDX plywood sheathing on 2 of them and they are fine. I roll on stain every 3 years or so and they held up great. HUGE cost savings if you want to build several of them.

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5 hours ago, GreenDrake said:

If you are going to build more of them in the future, you may want to scrap using treated 2x4 for framing with the exception of the sill plate. Much heavier than regular 2 x 4 and since I have used both, neither is holding up better than the other. I stained the interior and they are like new AND mine are open to weather all year. The savings in lumber is huge. I have also build 2 using 2 x 3's.....lighter.....and hold up just fine. I even used plain CDX plywood sheathing on 2 of them and they are fine. I roll on stain every 3 years or so and they held up great. HUGE cost savings if you want to build several of them.

Yeah, that's a solid point.  Bill of materials on this ran up fast.  I over engineer the crap out of things.  2 most expensive parts were the brackets, and the windows.  By the time I'm done it will be right around 1000.  Not the end of the world, and when you compare it to one of those prefabs still cheap.  

 

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My only disagreement is with using regular plywood. Where I am, Sullivan county, the porcupines eat that like it is a buffet line, they get high on the glue.

I use 1 x 10 pine planks cut from the local sawmill, nothing eats them, they last forever, and they weather great.

If you are going to build more of them in the future, you may want to scrap using treated 2x4 for framing with the exception of the sill plate. Much heavier than regular 2 x 4 and since I have used both, neither is holding up better than the other. I stained the interior and they are like new AND mine are open to weather all year. The savings in lumber is huge. I have also build 2 using 2 x 3's.....lighter.....and hold up just fine. I even used plain CDX plywood sheathing on 2 of them and they are fine. I roll on stain every 3 years or so and they held up great. HUGE cost savings if you want to build several of them.


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They eat ANY Plywood. We trapped and killed 21 porcupines in 2017. 12 in 2018. They destroyed the sheathing on 2 of the blinds. The problem with using plank is that it is real heavy if you want to be able to build in removable sections. 

I built some similar blinds and have them for years. One blind in particular has been hit hard by porcupines. Just curious what did you use to trap those bastards.


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I build the floor, the roof, and then 4 sides, put it all together at my camp. Then take it apart and pack it up on a trailer. Then I take them all to the woods apart, then put them together using lag bolts, sturdy as all get out. I put a different color of spray paint inside each corner so I know what goes with what. I have helped my dad make 4 of them in the last 10 years, 5 foot by 5 foot.

They eat ANY Plywood. We trapped and killed 21 porcupines in 2017. 12 in 2018. They destroyed the sheathing on 2 of the blinds. The problem with using plank is that it is real heavy if you want to be able to build in removable sections. 


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We painted the inside of our blinds black to help with concealment.  I only wish we had more opening windows when it was built. Put them in now, it's far easier to stick black cardboard inside them, not needed. I think you're find out blind spots don't harvest deer.

 

Edited by landtracdeerhunter
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7 minutes ago, landtracdeerhunter said:

We painted the inside of our blinds black to help with concealment.  I only wish we had more opening windows when it was built. Put them in now, it's far easier to stick black cardboard inside them, not needed. I think you're find out blind spots don't harvest deer.

 

There shouldn't be any blind spots :  it's a 6x4, the 24"x10" windows going in on each end, then 2 sets of each on both front and back.  Should have a 360 view.

I think sometime today I'm going to grab some dark walnut stain I have from a wood project and stain the crap out of the inside of it.  This is something I hadn't thought of, and thank all you guys for your tips/tricks & advice!

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I take brown carpet and run it from floor to ceiling (both sides of windows top and bottom )to block any wind, works great to keep heat in also.

I run my windows all the way across each wall I only leave the post corners, there us definitely no bling spots

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On 7/19/2019 at 5:12 PM, UpStateRedNeck said:

Only did the top half in stain, can't see any reason to do the bottom half?

IMG_20190719_165405.jpg

i'D  coat the whole inside, make it as dark as possible. We rubber matted the floor with horse mats from TSC.. Sure quieted down footwear and chair contact with the wood floor. Drop a pocket knife of release, no noise.

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  • 1 month later...

Man, I love it when equipment finally works.  I'm really impressed with this brush hog.  Went through trees as big as my wrist, and on a second pass all the way lowered ripped out most of the roots and stems.  

Taking some more time tomorrow to finish throwing the stand up, brush hog some more lanes, and knock down the plot.  Hopefully this weekend get a hydraulic ram on the disc harrow and start busting some sod.

 

Before and after :

IMG_20190905_141624_exported_366_1567726206202.jpg

IMG_20190905_164337_exported_466_1567726083673.jpg

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Hauling everything up was a little touch and go, but we made it work.  Quad flipped the thing upright after I got it up far enough.

Another couple hours of work to do, install the windows, spray foam the cracks, throw a carpet in and build the permanent ladder.

Tips everyone gave me for this project were invaluable, thanks guys!  Especially Greendrake!

IMG_20190906_150203.jpg

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