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Looking to buy my first bow, thoughts/suggestions.


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I am looking to buy my first bow, and considering the diamond infinite edge pro. It retails around 350 and seems to be a great beginner bow. If i were to bump up to the 500 range, any suggestions? Concerned about sites on the diamond and would think I would want to upgrade sites (not sure of cost). Afraid of buying and then needing to upgrade. Also, any one know of any places on the island I can test shoot it first or do you think there is no need at the price point. I have friend willing to take me under his wing with bow and looking to buy it now and practice for next season. Also if it matters, I'm a south paw/lefty.

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Lefty righty doesn't matter at all. I think it is a good idea to get an entry level bow to see if you are really going to stick with the archery thing. I wouldn't worry about upgrading anything on it. After two or three years of using it your string will need replacing,depends on how much you shoot.

I did the same thing and upgraded after 3 years with an adjustable beginners bow. I went on archery talk and got myself a great used bow for less than half the price of a new one. I switched my sights over and got a new string and rest for my used bow. I absolutely love that bow and will be shooting it for years to come.

In my opinion that is a good way to go about it since i knew very little about compound bows in the beginning. You need to figure out your Draw length and what poundage is comfortable.

Hope this helps.

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Before you buy the diamond bow, you really should shoot it as you may not like it. Being a lefty your not going to find much in the used market unfortunately. Definitely get your draw length checked and dont worry about what pound you’re pulling, start with what’s comfortable for you . Good luck and keep us posted on what you get and your progress . 

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54 minutes ago, Imjus4u2nv said:

I am looking to buy my first bow, and considering the diamond infinite edge pro. It retails around 350 and seems to be a great beginner bow. If i were to bump up to the 500 range, any suggestions?

Regardless of what kind of bow you would like or think you like make sure you shoot it first. Look at a bunch and shoot a bunch before you make your decision. There is nothing worse than buying a bow out of a catalog or on line only to end up with something you don't like or doesn't fit.

Just like a woman...you will know when you have the right one.:unsure:

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Some great advice already given. Any new bow today, is light years ahead of bows even fifteen years ago. No matter what brand it is! But I'd strongly suggest going to an archery shop, where you can be fitted for your first bow. Getting the correct draw length is critical for learning proper form. And learning proper form will save you many headache's down the road. Trust me on that.

Shoot a few different bows while there. One will stand out above the others. Plenty of good bows out there for $500 and under to get you started. 

Keep it simple!!! Don't worry to much about expensive sights and rests at this point. Start with a simple Whisker Biscuit rest, and a three pin sight by Trophy Ridge. That will be all you need for the first two or three years, or more.

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I bought a beginners Hoyt 4 years ago. Fully set up it was right around $400 with a release. 4 years later the only thing I see myself upgrading is the release as the Velcro straps annoy me. For a beginners bow it’s very accurate and has plenty of power. I’m sure all other manufacturers beginner bows are the same.


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I was in the same boat just over 10 years ago and ended up with the Matthews Venture (Mission line) to see if I liked I...well three whisker biscuits later, it’s still my only bow. I may be a bad judge however since I don’t upgrade anything (still swinging Ping Eye 2s from 1992 on the golf course)


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Like Grampy said new bows are all way better and upgraded from 10-15 years ago.  But not that much has changed in last few years.  I have a low end $ bow.  I use a bear attitude I got 4 years ago. It was 400 with a ready to hunt package , was on sale for $350. Its light and accurate.  And I have picked up a lot of bows since and high end ones and I still like mine better. It's small and light and I've shot a few with it.  Have heartpunched a doe at 35 yards. 

I would say get one with a whisket biscuit rest they are the easiest to use and no moving parts.

Good luck and you are gonna love hunting the best time of the year.  

Edited by Robhuntandfish
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Many valid points were made. I got my son the diamond to start him out with. The ready to hunt package was $350. Near nothing considering the cost of my Matthews Z7 lol. It’s adjustable for length and weight. Great bow to start with. I am in Suffolk and I went to smith point archery in Patchogue. Full on pro shop, knowledgeable staff, on site bow repair/tuning, indoor range and they sell hunting gear. You can shoot before you buy and shoot free for a year after your purchase. They also do taxidermy when you pin your first buck with your new bow, for a fee of course. Archery forum is another good choice in the Brookhaven Yaphank area on Horseblock rd. Feel free to Pm me. Hope this helps.


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The infinite bows absolutely suck to shoot at higher poundage, for your first bow I’d go to a shop and shoot all their midline bows. You can get a fully set up bow for $500-600 that you will really enjoy. Then what I did is start buying used. You’ll be amazed how many guys buy new bows then sell next year for half off.

also you can find elite impulses for $350-400 new right now still. They’re $900-$1000 bows. 

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unlike some things, I think we need to discuss what "beginner bow" means. For example, many say you should start with a 250cc motorcycle before hoping on a 1000cc. It's not that the 250 isn't well made, it's just that it's more forgiving and less likely to kill you given your experience.

that's not really the case with a bow and in fact a nice pse, hoyt or mathews will be exceedingly more forgiving and easier to learn. Now if you're not sure about archery hunting in general and dont want to sink $2k into a new bow, accessories and arrows then that's one thing. If you're really set on becoming and continuing to be an archer, I'd strongly urge you to find a better bow, but perhaps look used to save some money. There is nothing wrong with a 4 year old mathews. the difference is just marketing. Remember accuracy can be the difference between a clean ethical kill and meat in the freezer and a wounded unrecovered deer.

I shot the same mathews switchback for 12+ years and I bought it used off ebay with accessories for like $500. Only this year did I upgrade and yes 15 years in tech does make a difference, but if it helps ease your wallet pain. That first bow cost me ~$40 a season. And the traverse I plan to own for just as long.

Edited by Belo
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Shoot as many bows as possible, pick the one that is easiest to shoot and feels best when shooting.  Don't get a bow you have trouble pulling back, make sure not to use to much draw weight! 

Hand grip, valley, back wall and easy tuning are all important.  What are you specs I might have some good used bows if interested.  Draw weight and length would be needed if your interested and are local.  Long Island area. 

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Shoot as many bows as possible, pick the one that is easiest to shoot and feels best when shooting.  Don't get a bow you have trouble pulling back, make sure not to use to much draw weight! 
Hand grip, valley, back wall and easy tuning are all important.  What are you specs I might have some good used bows if interested.  Draw weight and length would be needed if your interested and are local.  Long Island area. 


Same. Stay unbiased and buy what feels best. I ended up with a bow I never heard of


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3 minutes ago, Belo said:

unlike some things, I think we need to discuss what "beginner bow" means. For example, many say you should start with a 250cc motorcycle before hoping on a 1000cc. It's not that the 250 isn't well made, it's just that it's more forgiving and less likely to kill you given your experience.

that's not really the case with a bow and in fact a nice pse, hoyt or mathews will be exceedingly more forgiving and easier to learn. Now if you're not sure about archery hunting in general and dont want to sink $2k into a new bow, accessories and arrows then that's one thing. If you're really set on becoming and continuing to be an archer, I'd strongly urge you to find a better bow, but perhaps look used to save some money. There is nothing wrong with a 4 year old mathews. the difference is just marketing. Remember accuracy can be the difference between a clean ethical kill and meat in the freezer and a wounded unrecovered deer.

I shot the same mathews switchback for 12+ years and I bought it used off ebay with accessories for like $500. Only this year did I upgrade and yes 15 years in tech does make a difference, but if it helps ease your wallet pain. That first bow cost me ~$40 a season. And the traverse I plan to own for just as long.

If we are talking dirtbikes, a 250 is more than enough to kill you. I started on an 80 then moved up gradually from a 125, to a 250 then a 500 and went back to the 250 because the 500 was too much for the woods. When i went to street bikes, I jumped right on the biggest Honda available because I was experienced (900RR at the time). 

Conversely, when I purchased my first bow, I went straight to the Matthews because of my experience with my shotgun "collection". When i first started hunting, it was duck over the bay. Just a way to extend the fishing season, so to speak. I got a Winchester pump in black synthetic. After being in the blind with several ppl convincing me the birds would flare off when they see the black (although I killed plenty with it) I decided I wanted a camo gun...Got the Benelli Nova pump in camo. I used that until I got tired of occasionally forgetting to cycle the action, consequently missing the follow up shot. Then came the Browning Gold Duck Commander edition semi auto. Problem solved until I took that pheasant hunting. Man did that gun get heavy fast! Next up Browning Synergy Feather o/u. Can carry that thing afield for days without problem, until it is time to shoot slugs at deer...Savage 220. 

I say all that so you understand I didn't want to end up with 18 bows before I was happy.  I walked in and said what is the BEST bow in the shop? Shot it, accessorized it, brought it home. Not everyone will wanna drop that kind of loot on a first bow (and still my only) but I knew this was something I would be doing until I was too old to draw. My son on the other hand...what if he decides after one season of practice he isn't in to it and i dropped over 2k on his bow?

Coincidentally, I got rid of the bike when my wife got pregnant with my first. He needed me alive more than I needed to ride. I never went anywhere less than 85 and usually on one tire. Man I do miss it sometimes tho.   

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6 minutes ago, NFA-ADK said:

Shoot as many bows as possible, pick the one that is easiest to shoot and feels best when shooting.  Don't get a bow you have trouble pulling back, make sure not to use to much draw weight! 

Hand grip, valley, back wall and easy tuning are all important.  What are you specs I might have some good used bows if interested.  Draw weight and length would be needed if your interested and are local.  Long Island area. 

We need to do a Long Island G2G!!

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31 minutes ago, squirrelwhisperer said:

If we are talking dirtbikes, a 250 is more than enough to kill you. I started on an 80 then moved up gradually from a 125, to a 250 then a 500 and went back to the 250 because the 500 was too much for the woods. When i went to street bikes, I jumped right on the biggest Honda available because I was experienced (900RR at the time). 

Conversely, when I purchased my first bow, I went straight to the Matthews because of my experience with my shotgun "collection". When i first started hunting, it was duck over the bay. Just a way to extend the fishing season, so to speak. I got a Winchester pump in black synthetic. After being in the blind with several ppl convincing me the birds would flare off when they see the black (although I killed plenty with it) I decided I wanted a camo gun...Got the Benelli Nova pump in camo. I used that until I got tired of occasionally forgetting to cycle the action, consequently missing the follow up shot. Then came the Browning Gold Duck Commander edition semi auto. Problem solved until I took that pheasant hunting. Man did that gun get heavy fast! Next up Browning Synergy Feather o/u. Can carry that thing afield for days without problem, until it is time to shoot slugs at deer...Savage 220. 

I say all that so you understand I didn't want to end up with 18 bows before I was happy.  I walked in and said what is the BEST bow in the shop? Shot it, accessorized it, brought it home. Not everyone will wanna drop that kind of loot on a first bow (and still my only) but I knew this was something I would be doing until I was too old to draw. My son on the other hand...what if he decides after one season of practice he isn't in to it and i dropped over 2k on his bow?

Coincidentally, I got rid of the bike when my wife got pregnant with my first. He needed me alive more than I needed to ride. I never went anywhere less than 85 and usually on one tire. Man I do miss it sometimes tho.   

i was talking street bikes. My first was a 600 and i'm lucky I didn't die. Still have it, just dont ride it nearly as often now.

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I think I failed to make my point lol. The question was about the diamond. Its a good bow at a low price and can grow with the archer if that is needed. Smith Point Archery is a good shop but maybe pricey for their higher end stuff. 

NFA-ADK is right on target. Just don't want to see someone make the same mistakes I made. 

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2 minutes ago, Belo said:

i was talking street bikes. My first was a 600 and i'm lucky I didn't die. Still have it, just dont ride it nearly as often now.

I miss my bike but I almost died every time I rode it. I was the idiot that passed you so fast on the highway it scared you. 

This is a topic for another thread, sorry to derail this one. Was unintentional. 

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there are probably 5, maybe 6 real players in the compound game. Outside of that I think you're making a mistake as squirrelwhisperer said.

in no order

mathews, hoyt, pse, bowtech, prime, elite and maybe bear. There are some others not far behind, but that's a good starting list in my opinion. 

https://www.archerytalk.com/vb/forumdisplay.php?f=278

*in for the "but what about" * post :)

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Just now, squirrelwhisperer said:

I miss my bike but I almost died every time I rode it. I was the idiot that passed you so fast on the highway it scared you. 

This is a topic for another thread, sorry to derail this one. Was unintentional. 

that's the fun. I'm not that idiot anymore... usually... but was once.

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