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8 minutes ago, Elmo said:

Ordered the Hornady One-Shot spray lube and will give that a try.  Let's see how Amazon's delivery is going to be since they announced that they will give household items priority during this lock-down.

I've ordered twice from Amazon since they said that and my items got here FAST,  they weren't household or health related.....

Edited by Lawdwaz
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1 hour ago, Elmo said:

Ordered the Hornady One-Shot spray lube and will give that a try.  Let's see how Amazon's delivery is going to be since they announced that they will give household items priority during this lock-down.

I use the Hornady One Shot lube, and it works great for me. I don't have a lube pad, so I just spray a clean shop towel with the lube, and roll the cases on that. Haven't had a case stick in the die yet. But I'm a relative new comer to reloading.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 3/21/2020 at 10:03 AM, Steve D said:

I have had the same problem from time to time and have found that spraying the inside of the die with a spray lube every 10 or 15 rounds helps tremendously. After I am done I clean the die with brake cleaner so it is clean for next time. Not sure if it is the "politically" correct way of doing it but it works for me.

Here is a little trick I came across that works quite well for stuck cases. You will lose the casing but won't destroy or damage the die if you have a vise.

 

While the above method will certainly work, the drawback with it is that it will disturb the the depth setting of the sizing die in the press. If you are like me, you adjust the die depth so that only the neck is sized and and the shoulder is just bumped by the die.

I have made a stuck case puller with very little cash outlay that only requires some tools that the average DIYer should have on hand.

 

TRSqqNh.jpg

 

Material;

  • 1 ea 1/8" X 1/4" bell reducer
  • 1 ea. 1/8" MIP nipple of any length  (you will only use a short potion of one threaded end)
  • 1  ea 1/4" X 20 socket head cap screw with at least 1 1/2" of thread (you may need to use a die to cut additional threads)
  • 1 ea 1/4" flat washer
  • 1 ea 1/4' X 20 nut

Tools;

  • 1/4"X 20 tap
  • #7 drill bit (a 3/16" but will probably work since we are working with a soft metal)
  • Optional - 1/4" X 20 die in case more threads need to be cut on the bolt
  • 3/16" Allan Wrench
  • 7/16" open end wrench (if you're using a hex head machine screw you will need an additional 7/16" wrench)
  • Hack saw
  • Mill file

 

Making the tool;

  1. screw the 1/8" pipe nipple snuggly into the small end of the bell reducer, (I used some loctite to lock the pieces together, but this is optional)
  2. Cut the nipple off nearly flush and carefully file the surface flat and square, deburr the I D
  3. Screw the nut all the way onto whatever threads are on the screw, place a washer on the bolt and insert it into the modified bell reducer.

You should have at least 1/4" of thread extending beyond the large end if the bell reducer. If not, you will need to cut additional threads onto the shank of the screw.

uL6TWlj.jpg

 

Prepping the stuck case and removing the stuck case;

BixtcVM.jpg

Note that the rim has been pulled off of this case by the shellholder when trying to extract it from the die in the press.

  1. Back off the lock nut on the decapping pin/expander button adjustment on the die and remove the decapping pin/expander button.
  2.  DO NOT ALLOW THE BIT TO ENTER THE CASE ANY MORE THAN NECESSARY TO DRILL OUT THE PRIMER POCKET. Be careful to drill the hole as square to the C/L of the case as possible. You can use the bell reducer as a somewhat accurate gauge for this, keeping in mind that the hole in the bell reducer will be slightly oversize for the bit. Keep it centered.
  3. Again using the bell reduce as a guide, tap the hole you just drilled in the primer pocket with 1/4" X 20 threads.
  4. Placing the bell reducer over the base of the die, screw the threads  into the tapped case making sure you get at least 3/8" of thread engagement. 
  5. With the die secured in a padded vice, hold the head of the screw with the appropriate tool and take you 7/16" wrench and screw the nut down against the shoulder of the bell reducer until  the stuck case comes free.

cKzJV5V.jpg

 

neatE4Z.jpg

I leave the case screwed onto the threads to keep the tool as a one piece unit when stored.

On 3/23/2020 at 5:16 PM, airedale said:

I have never had a problem with any brand of case lube I have tried other than some being more messy than others, they have all worked well and satisfactory, can even remember using STP oil treatment and that worked well also. Have been using the Hornady Unique paste in recent years and have switched to Frankford Arsenal's dry mica setup for inside the case neck lubrication as to eliminate contamination of the powder charge and that has worked well also.

Al

l_749012869_2.jpg

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410q3Q25lrL._SY300_QL70_.jpg

 

Use the same method for lubing the case necks. I also coat the outside to the neck and shoulder to gauge the amount of resizing I'm doing when I first set up the die depth.

1NXhNB8.jpg

Here is what that looks like in practice.

 

Edited by wildcat junkie
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  • 4 months later...
On 3/23/2020 at 5:51 PM, Pygmy said:

My reloading operation is very low-tech, low volume and perhaps somewhat primitive...

I once had a lube pad, but got too much lube on the cases which resulted in hydraulic dents on the shoulders..

On the advice of an old timer, I started applying a very thin coat on the cases with my fingers, and  lubing the inside case necks with a q-tip…  I have used several commercial case lubes and  STP, and it all worked fine...

After sizing, I wipe off the outside of the cases with a paper towel or clean cloth, and wipe out the inside case neck with a clean q tip...   Works for me....

That hydraulic pressure changes cartridge to cartridge consistentcy (size)as well even if it doesn't dent the shoulder. Not saying don't use lube just something to think about.

Lube also changes final cartridge consistentcy when firing if left on the cartridge. Same thing happens in the chamber when fired as sizing.

I use lanolin, on my thumb and index, a tiny tiny bit goes a long way on clean cases. Its the best and cheapest I've tried. I've even aresoled it. If money wasn't a factor(price per round) id use ONE SHOT.

I don't lube the inside as it again effects accuracy and sizing isn't effected. 

 

Edited by Modern hillbilly
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