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Using Open Sights


Northcountryman
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I was reading from my old  Field and Stream Deer Hunting Book I bought several yrs ago and came across a section about Still-Hunting w/ open sights. The author recommends target practicing with open-sights for still hunting, contending that a majority of opportunities/encounters occur when "kicking them up" while stalking (e.g., springing up from their bed upon being startled by your approach) and, is advantageous for these quick-aim-and-shoot like situations .  I think that makes alot of sense but, kind of comprimises you too, doesnt it? I mean, what happens if you come across an open field and you come upon a group of does and bucks grazing 250 yard away? Like-wise, if you subsequently,  decide to stand-hunt for awhile, your limited in terms of your shot-taking capabilities.  Do you take a scope with you then? 

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Today we have very high quality true 1 power variable scopes that are quicker to get on target than any iron sight. An example is the Leupold 1-4X20. That optic allows for longer shots if needed or quick up close work. For me a scope at 1x is easier to get on game, not having to line up sights is my main reason. Being brighter than the human eye at dawn and dusk is a plus. Plenty of these scopes made today aren’t true 1x, a lot of them are 1.5. I  think thats still acceptable for most people. Red dots are another good option but a totally different animal all together. 

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I've never had a problem getting on a moving deer with a scope. My father trained me early on on how to do it and it works. Step one and the most important is to have the scope and gun set up and it fits you.  This means the eye relief of the scope, pull of the gun and clarity of the crosshair just to name a few. Time after time with your eyes closed...shoulder the gun and then open your eyes. If you don't see a full scope picture with clear crosshairs something isn't right. repeat...repeat...repeat. 

Once that is good, dry  practice on an object. DON'T shoulder the gun and then try to find the object with the scope. if you keep your eyes laser focused on the object and shoulder the gun, brining it INTO your line of sight the crosshairs are going to be on , or very near the object. Sounds easy, and it is once you train your body and eyes.  You don't even want to blink during this shouldering process.  I promise it will work. 

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58 minutes ago, GreeneHunter said:

I've always wanted to get a setup with over / under sights !  Where the Iron Sights were under the Scope and could be used for the " Quick Shot " without the time it takes for "sighting in " the scope . Back in the days of " Drives " a quick shot was necessary !

This is only good in theory.  You actually do not get the best of both worlds.  Here are the problems.  The comb height of the stock will not be ideal for both and shooting consistently will suffer.  An open sight firearm has a comb height (low) to match.  Ideally, you want your scope mounted as low as possible, so line of sight and trajectory are optimized, and Over/Under sights do the opposite, they elevate scopes and the comb height is insufficient for proper fit/cheek weld.  Longer distance shooting requires more precision/fit.  The Over/Under sights also surround the open sight picture diminishing field of view and creating tunnel vision.

The best solution is an appropriate quality low power scope as explained by SpacemanSpiff above and properly setting it up as explained by Culver Creek Hunt Club above.

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I hope I get another chance at a big Adirorondack buck, in foul weather conditions, with my fiber optic sights.  I was not quite fast enough with them to get off a shot at one last year.  I blame that one mosty on this website and this smartphone.  Had I not had them, I would have paid a lot more attention to the twig I heard snap, 1 second prior to the buck popping up from that gully, 15 yards away.

In all but foul weather conditions, I prefer a low power score, for reasons listed by others.  With snow or rain with high winds, is the only time I use open sights.

20210121_120947.jpg

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2 hours ago, DoubleDose said:

This is only good in theory.  You actually do not get the best of both worlds.  Here are the problems.  The comb height of the stock will not be ideal for both and shooting consistently will suffer.  An open sight firearm has a comb height (low) to match.  Ideally, you want your scope mounted as low as possible, so line of sight and trajectory are optimized, and Over/Under sights do the opposite, they elevate scopes and the comb height is insufficient for proper fit/cheek weld.  Longer distance shooting requires more precision/fit.  The Over/Under sights also surround the open sight picture diminishing field of view and creating tunnel vision.

The best solution is an appropriate quality low power scope as explained by SpacemanSpiff above and properly setting it up as explained by Culver Creek Hunt Club above.

I fully agree ! My problem is I shoot an old Winchester 30-30  top eject , and I've seen people put a scope on further down and it just doesn't seem to work too well . I've also seen people put a side mount scope which to me doesn't make sense but whatever . 

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12 minutes ago, GreeneHunter said:

I fully agree ! My problem is I shoot an old Winchester 30-30  top eject , and I've seen people put a scope on further down and it just doesn't seem to work too well . I've also seen people put a side mount scope which to me doesn't make sense but whatever . 

I had a scope on my top eject 94 and it was just off to the left upper corner of the receiver. It wasn't ideal but a slight tip of the head with your cheek still bedded on the stock and you could use the fixed 4 power scope. I did have to turn the scope however. The windage adjusted elevation and the elevation adjusted windage., or the spent casing would hit the turret and drop back in the action. 

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5 hours ago, SpacemanSpiff said:

Today we have very high quality true 1 power variable scopes that are quicker to get on target than any iron sight. An example is the Leupold 1-4X20. That optic allows for longer shots if needed or quick up close work. For me a scope at 1x is easier to get on game, not having to line up sights is my main reason. Being brighter than the human eye at dawn and dusk is a plus. Plenty of these scopes made today aren’t true 1x, a lot of them are 1.5. I  think thats still acceptable for most people. Red dots are another good option but a totally different animal all together. 

Yeah, my Grandfatgher used to have a red-dot scope back in the day on his 20 gauge. Thats great for low-light but I'm thinking for quick-firing response-type hunting, would it still be as good as open-sights?  For this reason, I've thought of taking the scope off of my 22 when squirrel hunting cuz sometimes, due to their mobility, its actually a detriment (but not always). Is there a way to have both so you can switch up as needed? Someone menttioned a side-mount scope; how does that work?

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2 hours ago, wolc123 said:

I hope I get another chance at a big Adirorondack buck, in foul weather conditions, with my fiber optic sights.  I was not quite fast enough with them to get off a shot at one last year.  I blame that one mosty on this website and this smartphone.  Had I not had them, I would have paid a lot more attention to the twig I heard snap, 1 second prior to the buck popping up from that gully, 15 yards away.

In all but foul weather conditions, I prefer a low power score, for reasons listed by others.  With snow or rain with high winds, is the only time I use open sights.

20210121_120947.jpg

Are the fiver-=optic sights present on your reifle in the pic? If so, I dont see them

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Yeah, my Grandfatgher used to have a red-dot scope back in the day on his 20 gauge. Thats great for low-light but I'm thinking for quick-firing response-type hunting, would it still be as good as open-sights?  For this reason, I've thought of taking the scope off of my 22 when squirrel hunting cuz sometimes, due to their mobility, its actually a detriment (but not always). Is there a way to have both so you can switch up as needed? Someone menttioned a side-mount scope; how does that work?

A red dot has all the negatives you have with a scope and all the negatives you have with irons.

On a turkey gun they’re amazing on a deer rifle I can’t see any use for them.


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1 hour ago, Northcountryman said:

Yeah, my Grandfatgher used to have a red-dot scope back in the day on his 20 gauge. Thats great for low-light but I'm thinking for quick-firing response-type hunting, would it still be as good as open-sights?  For this reason, I've thought of taking the scope off of my 22 when squirrel hunting cuz sometimes, due to their mobility, its actually a detriment (but not always). Is there a way to have both so you can switch up as needed? Someone menttioned a side-mount scope; how does that work?

It did "ok" because there was no other option. Red dots and side mounts and other "gadgets" remind me of the saying --- Jack of all trades, master of none. 

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5 hours ago, Northcountryman said:

Are the fiver-=optic sights present on your reifle in the pic? If so, I dont see them

Yes they are there, two green dots on back and one red dot in front.  The resolution ain't all that great, but if you can zoom in, you might see them.

The rifle is a Marlin 336BL. I did not care for the iron sights that came on it. The rear fiberoptic is a cheap aftermarket one and the front came off my T/C Omega (That has a 2-7x scope on it now).  I had to shim the front up 1/4", to get the elevation right at 75 yards, which is the range it is zeroed at.

I like the fiberoptics, because they are fast and work ok in any weather conditions. Without rain or snow, I like a scope better though, because that picks up brush and improves accuracy on longer shots.  75 yards is about the limit of my comfortable range with the fiberoptics.

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1 hour ago, Northcountryman said:

Ok, so this fiberoptic sight system kind of functions like open sights then? Is that correct?  So , you think theyre better than stright-up iron sights?

 

I like them better because they are faster for me in low light conditions.  Pull trigger when on target with red dot centered between green ones.

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On 1/21/2021 at 11:52 AM, Buckmaster7600 said:

I hunt with a peep most of the time. Not because it’s faster than a scope because it’s not! I do it because you don’t have to worry about sights getting snow and ice in them.


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Feelin kinda sheepish here, but, whats a peep? Never heard of it! lol

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i would go with a scope and just keep it on low power.  And i wouldnt go with a 1.5 or 2.5 as you get less of an objective to gather light and smaller view.  I like a 4X variable at least.  I always walk in if i think i am going to jump somethign on a low power so i can get on target easier and then you have option of longer shots by just turning up the power.   I also have this reticle for that reason on all my scopes.- I like the circle.  Put it over the kill zone and send it.  Bushnell Banner Scope 1-4x Review

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54 minutes ago, Northcountryman said:

Feelin kinda sheepish here, but, whats a peep? Never heard of it! lol

Below is a typical peep-receiver sight, some mount on the side like this one and some will mount on the top of the receiver or barrel replacing the original factory rear sight.

A couple of illustrations showing basically how they are used, unscrewing the smaller hole aperture makes for a larger sighting hole which some refer to as a ghost ring resulting in a much larger field of view maker for quicker sight acquisition which is favored for hunting and still with precise accuracy.

2021-01-22_134520.png

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2021-01-22_134339.png

Edited by airedale
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i would go with a scope and just keep it on low power.  And i wouldnt go with a 1.5 or 2.5 as you get less of an objective to gather light and smaller view.  I like a 4X variable at least.  I always walk in if i think i am going to jump somethign on a low power so i can get on target easier and then you have option of longer shots by just turning up the power.   I also have this reticle for that reason on all my scopes.- I like the circle.  Put it over the kill zone and send it.  BUSHNELL-Trophy-XLT-1_75-4x32-Rifle-Scope-Circle-X-Reticle-731432AP-Pic1.jpg&key=b4985e0967e890d4496d934c276bf4db6e76b9eaf43e7b53ac301fe7a9bb4859

A quality scope with a 20mm objective will gather more light than the human eye can use. Bog objectives gathering light is a marketing strategy by inexpensive scope manufacturers.

In my opinion a 1-4 or 5x scope is ideal for eastern hunting. Plenty of zoom to reach out as far as any of us will shoot. I’ve shot a couple around 400yds with no problems.


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4 hours ago, Northcountryman said:

Ok, just looked up what they are and look like, as I wasnt sure.  It appears that they are kind of like glow-in-the dark bright open sights , right? I like that.  How much for that setup, if you dont mind me askin?

I think I paid around $ 20 for a cheaper set, around 25 years ago.  I used only the rear from that set on my Marlin 336.  Some complain that fiberoptics are not durable, but I think that pertains mosty to the front sight, which is more easily damaged by contact with branches, etc..

My front fiberoptic sight is quite stout, (as mentioned in my first post, it came standard on my T/C Omega ML).  I carried it thru some thick Adirondack cover a few days last season, and it looks to have held up very well.

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1 hour ago, Buckmaster7600 said:


A quality scope with a 20mm objective will gather more light than the human eye can use. Bog objectives gathering light is a marketing strategy by inexpensive scope manufacturers.

In my opinion a 1-4 or 5x scope is ideal for eastern hunting. Plenty of zoom to reach out as far as any of us will shoot. I’ve shot a couple around 400yds with no problems.


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Have tried a couple of 20mm disappointed both times.  

Agree a 4 or 5x scope is plenty as I have a 4x on my 30/30 and my 12g. But for my 06 I have a 9x. Why not have a more powerful scope if you need one for longer shots, It doesn't limit shorter shots cause u can just keep it turned down if you want but had a wider view.  No reason to limit yourself if your going to use a scope. 

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Have tried a couple of 20mm disappointed both times.  
Agree a 4 or 5x scope is plenty as I have a 4x on my 30/30 and my 12g. But for my 06 I have a 9x. Why not have a more powerful scope if you need one for longer shots, It doesn't limit shorter shots cause u can just keep it turned down if you want but had a wider view.  No reason to limit yourself if your going to use a scope. 

1x is faster than 3 or 4X, I have 1-4 or 5 leupolds on most of my deer rifles and other than on the bench I don’t think I’ve had any of them over 2or 3x. Larger scopes are heavier and have to be mounted higher. Heavier is no big deal if you’re not walking but 6-8oz in your hand after a day makes a big difference. I like my scopes mounted as low as possible in low or Xlow mounts because it makes it faster on target when you can burry your cheek on the stock instead of it floating.

Ymmv

If I was setting up a gun for still hunting it would have a 1-4x20 scope. If I was setting up two guns the other would have a peep sight for foul weather.


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