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Inline ML Question


RangerClay
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I like the Traditions foaming bore cleaner. It really works well to get all the residue out of the breech plug.

Prior to using that, I always struggled with difficulty inserting and removing primers and occasional plugging of the hole, requiring a drill to clean out.  No problems since and this has all been with triple seven powder.

Edited by wolc123
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As per some research and a suggestion by @sbuff I soak the plug in a 50/50 mix of Windex and water. Then I use a toothpick to make sure the hole is completely clear.

I might grab a couple cans of air now that I read this. That should dry it out well enough.

Edited by DirtTime
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I let it soaked in 50/50 water and windex mix if shooting BP. 

If your using bh209 you'll need to hand spin a drill bit 

  • T/C, Traditions. CVA using the Blackhorn breech plug and most Knight breech plugs use a 1/8″ drill bit
  • For the CVA non-quick release breech plug (REQUIRING A TOOL TO REMOVE) use a #32 drill bit. Numbered drill bits are machinist bits and can be found at various online supply houses like ENCO, or search “numbered drill bits” for more
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8 minutes ago, sbuff said:

I let it soaked in 50/50 water and windex mix if shooting BP. 

If your using bh209 you'll need to hand spin a drill bit 

  • T/C, Traditions. CVA using the Blackhorn breech plug and most Knight breech plugs use a 1/8″ drill bit
  • For the CVA non-quick release breech plug (REQUIRING A TOOL TO REMOVE) use a #32 drill bit. Numbered drill bits are machinist bits and can be found at various online supply houses like ENCO, or search “numbered drill bits” for more

Thank you.  I am shooting Traditions with Pyrodex RS

Edited by RangerClay
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I soak the breech plug in some black powder solvent while I clean the rest of the gun . Before I soak it I scrape out the primer fire channel with the fire channel brush in this kit . Works way better than a drill bit . The drill bit may compress some of the fowling against the sidewall of the channel . I used the drill bit method . Then I used that little brush. I was amazed how much was still left that the brush scraped out . Its worth the 6-7 dollars . Not to mention you get the big brush for cleaning out the threads and fire chamber on the barrel .

Robs suggestion on the compressed air to blow out and dry up the breech fire channel after cleaning is great. I have been doing that for years . You usually dont need the pin for the fire hole blowing the channel out with the air , but I do it anyways .

Just one last suggestion when putting it back together . Grease the threads on the front half of the breech before screwing it back in. You only need the front half because it will spread to the rest as its going in . This serves 2 purposes . 1 )  obviously this will make it easier to unscrew it next time  2 )  This stops blowback when you fire . Keeps the burnt powder from blowing into the threads .  I even saw a couple real elitist techie perfectionist competition shooters on another site talk about losing accuracy because of blowback through the threads . I think that is a little too far fetched . 

https://www.amazon.com/Thompson-Center-Breech-Brush-Channel/dp/B00162MHRA/ref=sr_1_6?crid=NNXNQ484I7BB&keywords=breech+plug+cleaner&qid=1636053750&sprefix=breech+plug%2Caps%2C191&sr=8-6

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13 hours ago, sbuff said:

I like Teflon tape on the threads but do you grease too 

Here is a great thread to read through on another forum about using teflon tape on the breech plug. 

" Sabotloader " is a very knowledgeable guy . Been muzzle loading forever . He switched over to teflon . He has some diagrams on the wrapping to prevent blowback . 

https://hunting-washington.com/smf/index.php?topic=87147.0

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