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Setters4life

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Posts posted by Setters4life

  1. I cleaned a Century Arms Coach Gun for a customer recently. It was new, barely shot, and already had a cracked stock extending three inches behind the receiver tang. It had a suspicious bulge at one muzzle that the owner couldn't account for, or 'fess up to. The wood-to-metal fit was deplorable, exhibiting a 3/8" gap between the forend and forend metal. Hammers felt weak, triggers were mushy, yet the gun surprisingly went bang. I doubt it will ever make it through more than a case of shells before succumbing to parts flying off it. It's made in China. With this you get what you pay for.

     

     http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/37_1230/products_id/70780/CIA+12+Ga.+Coach+Gun+wHammers+Side+by+Side+12+Gauge+3

  2. CZ-USA as well Dehann imports O/U and S/S shotguns that are made by Huglu in Turkey. The Turkish are making fine quality firearms WHEN the contracting company demands it. It's the same same old American corporate culture. Poor leadership from the top trickles down to poor products for the consumer.

     

    DeHann and Huglu's are okay, but some are crude and run of the mill. Compare the "journeyman" S/S turned out by them today compared to an entry-level low grade A.H. Fox, Lefever, Parker, or L.C. Smith of yesteryear and there is no comparison.

  3. Twenty-nine years ago when I moved into my house, I found a stash of old tools in the garage. Many were rusted, some, being old and from an age and day when they made things to last, I brought many of them back to life if they could be useful to me again.

     

    One item was an old, rusted axe head in the bottom of a wooden milk crate, I took a wire wheel brush and removed all the old rust. The head was forged, and had a "Plumb" stamp on it. I knew I had something worthwhile. I took all the rust off, and refinished the metal head with cold-blue. I procured a new handle, fit the end in the axe and secured it with Acraglas, gave it a BLO finish, a coat of wax, added a hole at the end for some paracord to wrap around my wrist to keep the axe from slipping. It's sharp enough to shave with. If I change anything when this handle breaks, I'll look for a longer one, with a bit more curve to it.

     

    Axe.jpg
     

    • Like 4
  4. Big fan of my lever guns, especially my 444S. Been shooting a handloaded Hornady 265gr. FP exclusively for more than thirty years. The only knock I have with the Marlin is it's pencil-thin buttstock and drop. Felt recoil would be less if they fitted it with a decent buttstock. I don't notice the recoil afield with heavy loads but when practicing in the summer I do. I worked up some 240 gr. lead loads @ around 1,100 FPS that shoot to POA @ 25 yds.

     

    utf-8BL0RldmljZSBNZW1vcnkvaG9tZS-47.jpg

     

     

    My BLR in .257 Roberts has taken a shine to 117 gr. -120 gr. bulletweights. I have yet to work up a lightweight bullet weight for varmints. I'll get around to it hopefully this summer. This gun and cartridge is a delight to shoot.

    BLR81_zps2ef9e3a5.jpg

     

     

    A pre-war Savage 99R in .300 Savage. This only takes trips to the range but it's suprisingly accurate. Classic design and lines. It's a shame these are not popular now. And their prices only escalate.

    utf-8BL0RldmljZSBNZW1vcnkvaG9tZS-20.jpg

    • Like 3
  5. A good anti-seize lube works great for choke tubes and threads. It's messy to work wth, but does wonders. Some folks remove and clean the tube/threads after every outing. Others leave the tubes in for months/years before wrestling them out. I've taken to removing them, inspecting and cleaning them after every outing or so.

     

    Beretta sells a special tool for their style tubes/threads that will chase the threads and clean them out. It's very effective. I don't know who sells the equivalent for Browning, Winchester, Remington, Ruger, etc. Then again, a bronze/brass toothbrush would accomplish the same thing.

  6. I might be dipped also.  This is good info. I do have access to a digital scale and could easily dip and weigh, seems like. This is great info from those in the know. 

     

     

    "  Is is set up with info for dipper / grain info for the different powders " If this is a question for me, I dont know the answer.  I see a bit of upgrades in my future. I opened the lee powder thing and did not see a slide in chart that should have been there.  Hopefully its there somewhere.

     

    There are quite a few primers in there, appear to be in perfect shape. Good idea to use or bad idea to use, given the age?

     

    If the primers have been stored properly and haven't been exposed to moisture they should be fine. They won't go bad.

     

    I have used those dippers back in the 70's and they throw close to what they say for different powders. Use a powder trickler to get as close to the measurement as possible if you are not going to use a powder measure/thrower.

     

    You can make some nice medium power loads for your.30-06 that can go down to .30-30 power-levels with medium burn-rate powders like 3031, 4895, 4320, Varget, W748. Stick powders are sometimes difficult to work with in a thrower. I haven't tried the new "short cut" powders yet but that's what they were developed for. Ball powders work better but you might have fewer options than you would with stick powders.

     

    My first centerfire "reloader" was this Lee that a friend gave me back in the70's. It worked fine, and there was no scale. (I have posted a picture of the original here before but can't seem to find the photo now. I still have the loader though.)

     

     

    leeloader.jpg

     

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