dbHunterNY

For the capital region I highly recommend Strattons. You're not driving there all the time. Drop off and pick up. In know him personally. Can do snack sticks, hotdogs, bulk or cased sausage.... anything you want just no poultry. We go through a lot of sweet Italian and breakfast deer sausage. If you're ever unhappy say something and he'll make it right.

Our population isn't so far out of wack that some buck wouldn't get to that second doe even if she doesn't get bred when she first is ready. Better to take the doe early when opportunity presents itself. Some of us on here having great hunting ground when it comes to opportunity. we might take for granted and hold off on taking a doe. Adult doe taken early or late in the season effects things the same for all practical purposes. I do preach that wasted effort but in the context as not wanted. It only adds stress to bucks and draws out breeding/phases of the rut. Doe get bred in 2nd time they're ready that year and fawns get short changed starting out in life. Adult doe (1.5+ yrs old) are your key to population.

taking button bucks will do nothing to lower the population for the following year, aside from it and only it being dead. I've seen small spikes get hammered. that late in the season it's crunch time to fill the freezer and mistakes happen. sometimes it's hard to even get to your hunting spots, let alone bare the weather for many people. i don't mean to argue. the difference though is exactly the opposite of what you said. we're NY and not other states. some of us don't spew speculations, although it might seem like it. if I say on here I think DEC will do this, it's because I've talked to them about it. That said pushing late muzzleloader into gun season is my thoughts. most gun hunters have filled or given up a bit by then. harvest numbers are front heavy with gun season and taper off in a hurry. Myself and others that hunt with a bow do take doe during bow season but by far any quota for management or freezer filling purposes is done with a gun. there's been years where I filled the freezer all during muzzleloader but dragged doe out through snowdrifts up to my ass and the following year never took the muzzleloader out of the safe so I didn't go through that again. opportunity whatever way you look at it typically goes down as the season carries on after open day of regular season. if DEC wanted to be not so timid about things they could try making regular buck tag and either sex just for those units during regular season. not sure if they'd feel the take could be too much and not conservative enough. you could say there wouldn't be that much difference given DMPs are so readily available and easily filled in those units compared to others.

7mm mag cross hairs on the top of it's back will cover all your setups except the 400 yard stand situation. already picked up a scope but I'd have opted to use regular reticle on a better Burris scope for the money. Seeing how you're happy with Burris.

it takes getting used to like anything else. works well once you get the hang of it. make sure you're not in HDR mode on your iPhone when using your phone camera. it should dump a low resolution/less memory version in your camera roll though if it is.

if you use tapa talk app then when posting a picture from your "camera roll" you can choose the size/memory format of the photo to post.

people lose interest and it's hard to tell young button bucks and otherwise "antlerless deer" from actual doe. taking the latter is the only way to effect population in a real way. NYS will never allow baiting for hunting I think. extended early season antlerless only in September. other option that doesn't effect harvest much is pushing late muzzleloader (antlerless) into late gun season and shortening that season. there's a lull between November and late season. some sit on a regular buck tag because they can't fill it with a doe to call it a season until late season.

didn't realize they didn't do the bonus DMPs for all areas they implemented the doe only in. I'm pretty sure the 4 DMAPs per hunter per application applies though.

if they get county ag funding/aid... the county often at times pushes for strips that alternate corn to something else like hay ground to prevent erosion, replenish organic composition of the soil, etc. when this happens it's usually got a blend of something fast growing to prevent erosion. it could be oats. usually it's mowed before it goes to seed and gets too tall. it can get baled up into straw for animal bedding or mulch. we typ use brome grass instead. looks a little similar.

with a 7mm mag at less than 350 yards I don't know why you'd need a long range reticle. more power than 9x maybe. if you're not holding on deer hair still you're doing something wrong I'd think.

I agree.

for a hunting arrow you just pick a straight, durable arrow, that you're confident in. I've killed deer with the lightest arrows possible and heavier ones. anything marketed as a hunting arrow won't do you much if any wrong.

could be a lot more than that. could get bonus DMPs for some units and keep filling them as long as to check them the previous one in to get the next. outside of the over populated units a person can actually fill up to 2 DMAPs per application/group getting them that year. for applications in over populated units you can fill 4 DMAPs per application per year. most people think it's a limit all together for that year anywhere in NYS and it's not.

I shot the Easton Hexx arrows last year for 3D. My average was well over 300/330 for the season so I'm sure they were holding me back in anyway. Before that I shot Lightspeed 3D's and they drove tacks too. This year local shop didn't have what I was looking for so I'm trying out Carbon Express BLU Rz shafts. people try to go so light that they're usually on the edge of being under spined for their setup. if they don't shoot with good form and release gracefully versus plucking at the trigger then it really causes the arrow to flex. for hunting it's a whole different scenario. weight only helps prevent deflection in or on contact with the animal, quiets your setup, gives you a more durable arrow for reuse, and retains KE on impact (penetration). light arrows have far more KE/kinetic energy than heavy arrows, but KE isn't what directly kills game.

DEC has made some bone head moves but a lot of this has to do with what DEC can and can't do. A lot of suggestions are legislative and not possible for DEC to do.

expense as an adult is a little harder to cope with. my toddler though is different assuming she accepts hunting even a little it'll save me quite a bit of money and her down the road. still payback for me would be just shy of when I'm 50 yrs old. bowhunting lifetime payback pretty much the same thing. still probably a good investment. the amount i'll save in the end I'm probably fine with paying it in to help conservation.

Rockspec a mechanical release aid will definitely help in a hurry. if you do look at releases don't go cheap on handheld releases and if looking at index trigger/wrist strap ones keep some things in mind. a buckle strap versus Velcro will be more consistent. also adjustable length is nice but know that your trigger should be right there by your finger with when your finger is relaxed. if you have to reach for the trigger that's bad, you're not pulling it straight back on the trigger and you'll have tension/movement in your hand.

I'd setup on the far back corner back against to cliffs. if there's any cover between them and the plot there might be a perimeter trail the deer take. as long as all the deer aren't coming in from that corner you'll be alright with many winds anything west. what gets tricky is cliff edges or steep ridges have tumbling winds directly below that spread scent everywhere. you might have this with anything from the south or in the evenings.

I'm with larry and john. worst case scenario they have to be at least 500 feet away with a gun from any permanent "cabin" or "camp" you've built on the property.

I've tried to do what your doing in the past and it never seems to work out.

don't mean to be the bearer of bad news but you really have to go check out locations knowing what the weather man or say airport wind is reading. early or late in the evening thermals can shift a breeze. most likely topography or a mature tree line will steer the wind in a different direction unless your flat and open country. also equal time on stand, you'll see the least activity with a prevailing wind. it's generally when you have the odd ball winds like northeast that weather and fronts get deer on their feet for various reasons. also rebar pounded into the ground with welded wire can be brushed in for alternate locations. won't keep you dry but don't need tons of blinds. scent concerns are no different than if you were out of the blind unless you're in say a sealed up box blind with gasketed windows. point your blind for different wind direction then the next blind. set each up to work for the location with were think the deer will be/go. also try not to set it up in a direction so the sun is blasting directly into your scope/sight/eyes early and late in the day. even if you just have a single tree to block the sun you're ok.

I think I've maybe only gotten DMPs a few times. all DMAPs used for me. on paper I probably look like a horrible hunter based on the fact they only track numbers of deer taken and not what hunter took what.

look at all that flat ground out there and big bucks! definitely see the roman nose/depth in the 2nd picture. all nice deer though in there own right. any idea on how many typical stick around versus stray when comparing your summer bachelor groups versus open season?

Checked it out quick tonight. Some deals this weekend. Have new Bear crossbows that are nice. Some other stuff dicks alone didn't carry. It'll be good. No bass pro or cabelas though. Better so I'll take it.

Rockspec good advice given. the only this I haven't seen picked up is make sure you're not canting your bow (top of bow tipped to your right versus straight up). if you've got a bubble level on your sight make sure it's true before using it as a reference. hang a weight on a thin rope like a one you'd pull your gear up into your stand with. come to full draw with an arrow nocked and anchor. then point bow up and down keeping the string vertically inline with the hanging string. if your bubble stays centered the whole time, you're good to go.