dbHunterNY

try out the Carter RX series index triggers too. pull/break is better than most index trigger releases.

its a lot different and your anchor points as well as peep height might have to change. for the purposes of feeling it out it'll take more than a few outings. don't go cheap and think just because it's handheld it'll be better. the biggest benefit over an index trigger/wrist strap type is most likely the handheld has a crisper and cleaner breaking trigger. sometimes you can feel the mechanics moving in an index trigger and it can be nerve racking if you're thinking about it. most I know just punch or slap the index trigger. if they're finger is touching the trigger they're letting the arrow fly.

good illustration and post. everyone's correct grip might look different because they're hands are slightly different but they all should be doing in a sense the same thing. this method is proven to create a cradle with minimum movement. you really not holding the bow at all. just giving it something solid and consistent to push back against. some close or open middle to pinky fingers. I've noticed the most consistency leaving all fingers open but dangling limp. instinctively you'll catch the bow if you don't have a wrist strap but most have one on their hunting bows. just don't think about catching it and you'll be more than fine.

slow here because i haven't had the time to get out.

it's more gun than needed but one that can be put in a safe, ready to kill anything in north america. I'd go pretty light on bullets for deer. definitely a flat shooting gun. I know of some that shoot stout heavier jacketed bullets that just punch through. light bullets shed energy once entering the deer a lot quicker. this all turns to shock. as long as you got penetration you're fine and on a deer it's not hard to get. never shoot it in the shoulder. it wastes a ton of meat. you don't want to be chewing on bone or lead fragments and blood shot meat. aim just behind and right through the lungs. shoot into anything solid, as in any quarter or chest, and you're probably doing lots of destruction and meat loss. my take. I can go out with a 300 win mag which is nice but it honestly just sits in the safe.

wife wanted to head to the farm and gather some. might this weekend.

unfortunately I don't have a lifetime license or the up front money to spend on something like that at this point. my daughter going on 2 yrs old however, will soon get the works! just have to look into it more.

actually didn't read the article yet despite I should've. one of the big things contributing to a downward deer population trend in the US is people thinking they're practicing QDM still whack a ton of doe despite getting hit with things like EHD, instead of doing the right thing by backing off and factoring it in. takes multiple seasons for a population to come back from a situation like that.

I can definitely agree with this. my cams go out just before hard antler and during. once out they stay out. only swap cards. before I did this it seemed like I was going through cams left and right despite I didn't have that many. I'd also have weird sections of the photos blurred or blacked out but no visible moisture in the cam. all kinds of weird other quirks. haven't had too many issues at all the past few years with cams I've always had.

if she's anything like my wife she noticed but didn't say anything. then on vacation little extras here and there that she'd like get brought up. so the moral of the story is last year we went to Jamaica and this year it's Punta Cana. haha both all inclusive... during the first week of bow season.

nice photos. not a photographer to know any better but they look great.

i use cameras and scout the way you mentioned at distance with binos. last season i got every buck known to be killed on the property and neighboring properties on camera. there were 5 of them i know of. 3 of them i passed up. buck i took with a bow i took two days/sits of scouting and having him do the same thing at about 400 yards out. went in mid day on my sit after that with a summit climber. arrowed him at what was probably 23 yards. it's usually not that easy but i scouted and went in with a plan knowing timing and wind were right. not just to not get busted but that also matched when he showed up and apparently felt safe. i'll take all the help i can get. cell cams i think are the ultimate tool. I'm just probably too cheap when it comes to cams to get and use one. i do admit though i could use and almost always accept all the help i can get.

we're lucky to not have EHD here in NY. many of our natural water sources are flowing and not stagnant. things like ponds and others are usually littered with frogs and also have an inlet and outlet.

no FFL around here seems to want to deal with Midway Usa and they're the only ones that have my Black Hills ammo that shoots so well out of one of my guns. I've got government based security clearance, pistol permit, and other stuff yet I can't get ammo online even paying extra. all because of a mandate that the state was never going to follow through with to allow to work.

this is something derived from pure genius. to be a Prostaffer (promotional staffer) for most entities you're approached first or you apply with thousands of others. most don't get the amount of work and time it takes to be a prostaffer for something. this opens to door to the idea that if you're driven enough you could get your foot in the door. it's doing all the talent scouting for them.

i'm late... here's my take..... for most accurately selecting arrows with the correct spine you need to know arrow shaft length, draw weight, arrow point/broadhead weight, and brace height of your bow. over draw isn't really a factor as much any more and it's assumed you're using a release and not shooting with fingers. otherwise those last couple would also come into play. ​you have to look at the manufacturer. for most the spine say 400 means that under a certain set of conditions the shaft will flex 0.400". however, carbon express that's not that case. their 250 shafts are equivalent to others 400 shafts. you've just got to look at what their actual spine is that's all. better too stiff than too light especially with shooting a fixed blade broadhead, as blades work like wings and do more to flex the shaft than a field point. brace heights under 6.5" is like adding 5 lbs of draw weight to your bow when selecting a shaft. then the base line for point weight is 100 grains. for each 25 grains over that, add 3 lbs to your draw weight when looking at a chart. your fingers shouldn't be anywhere near the path of the broadhead, if they are your grip is wrong or your forcing your fingers open. don't do that. hand and fingers should be limp with wrist locked back for a solid seating of the outer grip edge into the life line on your hand. light arrows and speed does mean more energy, but for penetration and quietness weight is your friend. my compound hunting bows run around 6-6.5 grains of finished arrow weight per pound of draw weight. I usually get entry and exit holes. more often a pass through. some shoot more and some less but that's worked for me. assuming your 100gr head, 29" arrow shaft, and bow brace height not under 6.5" you can shoot a 0.400" spine shaft. anything to make that worse and you're into a 0.340" spine arrow shaft.

good to maintain muscle strength into fall but shooting a good 1st arrow and then walking away will do much better than shooting a good 10th arrow and then 20 not so good arrows after it. muscle memory is a crazy repeatable and accurate thing when you don't think about it and just do something. that can hurt or help you though. levi morgan, one of the best archers in the world, was forced by his dad to shoot 1 arrow at a time. each time he had to walk back to the target. no half ass shots or form. otherwise it wouldn't be worth walking down the get the arrow. similarly in hunting it's that first arrow that counts. doesn't matter if you shoot better than anyone else can after the first shot if that first shot is less than stellar.

didn't have this info so I threw out what could've been. your plan sounds like a good one to me. if you index the nock I wouldn't even strip and refletch an arrow if it's shooting good. just throw some "up" arrows on the top vane. if you're worried about nocking it wrong during those moments when a deer is coming in just don't have it as a back up arrow at the ready. move it accordingly in your quiver or whatever you have to do.

it is possible your nock point is off a little or rest is off a little. if you can't weed out a bad arrow then maybe that could be looked at further. rest height should have the shaft centered at the same height as the rest mounting hole called the berger button hole. anyway start at the top of this info and work through it to rule stuff out.

that's always something good to do... I number all my arrows with a sharpie marker. a number is written on a vane for each arrow. arrows break down and become less consistent after shot into stuff over time. important things to remember when it comes to arrows is your bow is a fast bow. it has a brace height less than 6.5" which is equivalent to shooting 5 lbs more draw weight when selecting arrows or checking for correct spine. you'd add about 3 lbs of draw weight for every 25 grains more than a head or point that's 100 grains. arrow length often correlates with draw length but arrows are sized by using the actual length of the shaft versus draw length. biscuit doesn't really effect shaft selection to correctly tune I've found. a drop away can be more forgiving at times but a biscuit does absolutely fine. slightly too stiff is better than slightly too weak. especially when you plan on throwing on fixed blade heads come fall. a weak spine will over react to a center shot or nock/rest height that's off. sounds like your center shot is good. that means as long as you're not canting the bow and shooting poorly at all, your right to left shouldn't drift at all as you move back in yardage. assuming you've got a point weight of 100grains and your arrow shaft lengths are somewhere between 26.5 - 28.5" long, you should be shooting 340 spined arrows. when you say 400 gr I assume you meant weight. if you meant spine as in the shafts have a "400" on them, then you should probably get stiffer arrows. for weight anything over a minimum of 350 grains (5 grains per lb of draw weight) is fine. a heavier arrow will help penetration and make the bow shoot quieter and with less vibration.

not to hijack the thread.... PM me or start another and I and some other bow savy folks I'm sure will try to help the best we can.

thought of something else. trails leading into a corn field can be deceiving. where deer come in isn't usually where they leave. if you have less than an over populated # of deer in the area and trails with heavily night time use it'll be tough to figure out the good trail to be on. they eat more vigorously coming in than leaving. often the loamy earth that somewhat shaded will be still damp and soft to leave good tracks. with some preseason scouting walking the field during low activity hours. midday, wear waders and/or spray down really well. look for chewed kernels from ears of standing corn that's starting to dry up and kernels dimpled as well as the tracks. knocked over spot of corn will be mostly from fat B&C raccoons not deer. roll this into any low impact trail cam scouting you're doing and as season approaches you'll have a good idea of where the fields are being hit from and where to setup. along with what some of the others posted, set back stands/trees work well for multiple parallel trails running into the field. main setup trail put a fixed stand like a hangon. in the event you're partially busted or see a good buck on another trail, having a pre-scouted 2nd stand location for say a climber or mobile hangon might come in handy. it'll be on the next trail or two down wind from your primary stand. even if you don't get busted due to pressure and leaving some trace behind doe groups will at times catch on to make the setback stand useful too. don't jump around trail to trail aimlessly though. you'll be playing cat and mouse the whole season and more likely burn out the stand before then.

HAHA.... may have screwed yourself there. once you get home I'd start the conversation with the deer activity seemed slower than it should be.

as the others have said if it's a destination food source bucks might not get there during daylight hours. you might bump bucks leaving before daylight while going in. also evenings that are good early season might have delayed activity to the food source. pattern the deer like you normally would to get a when and where. many times it's better to stalk or walk through the corn field to actually get clean access to your stand. keep in mind edges of fields often are a change in terrain and cover that have effects on thermals/wind. wind might be great the whole sit but the during last portion of day light you might see a shift in wind direction. after harvest curiosity often gets deer walking the edges that parallel their predetermined path of travel. type of harvest tends to effect activity. chopping versus picking leaves much less left for the deer to scavenge. picking in my experience leaves more.

no rain here yet. water the garden often but it's still dry. threw down plastic for hopefully less burn off in the garden.