dbHunterNY

shoot a weight that's easy to pull in multiple ways. then continue to shoot throughout the year enough to keep your strength up. then draw correct, smooth, and controlled. push and pull at the same time using arms and back muscles all in a fluid motion. you're coming from over the top like the last portion of a pull up. always draw perpendicular with your legs or what you're standing on. then bend down or up to maintain form. if not you'll pull more with one group of muscles, putting a lot of strain on them over time.

some more mechanics are important but yup this is basically what i do also. basically it'll pop and come to rest pretty close to the bullseye over and over on good days.

we're about $10 over that. not haylage or high moisture wrap round bales. that's normal square bales. you come get it and we help load. seems it's been a little short recent years but not too bad.

I've always thought about getting one. haven't though. sandbags or sand bags and bipod seem to work well enough. with either of those I can float the cross hairs tight enough where I notice my heart beat makes them twitch even when I'm calm. I've noticed POI changes when shooting for groups with forearm not held down versus sighting in holding the forearm of the stock down. pretty slight though and well within minute of deer vitals out to 200 yards or so.

if it's old hay field, he'll probably only get at most 2 cuttings off it. probably won't fertilize it unless he's got a cattle and is close by to spread manure. if you're mowing it anyway just let him.

beards get wrapped and hung. fans pinned and dried open. they make the crappiest decoys draw in some wary birds. some inexperienced hunters with binos too. don't keep spurs though for some reason. haven't gotten taken any with truly long limb hangers maybe why.

being in new england and in the capitol region there's lots of offerings. i've had beer in several multiple countries. significantly different at times. can't remember even half of their names. i like beer. hell i just checked my fridge and i've got 6 different varieties of beer and a bottle of whiskey in my fridge.

i've been pretty close to getting in fights but haven't actually gotten in any. i intend to keep it that way. couple i should've maybe stepped up but didn't. it worked out for the better though. i've had everything happen from getting a drink thrown at my head for really no reason to having a guy stick his head out a car window and ask if he could get with my wife. problem is in almost all the situations i didn't know the guy and you don't know how messed up in the head they are. they could have a knife, a gun, or several buddies at the ready just as nuts. if you've got something like a job or say a pistol permit getting in a fight isn't a good thing at all. there's always someone a little better at fighting and/or a little bigger. hopefully the day never comes where i'll have to defend myself or someone else by fighting.

cost of the rest is usually 160 + tax. every shop i've been to they've installed rest for no additional cost if you've bought it from them. also $150 if it's a 2 cam bow (two control cables/strings and a string) and custom strings with multiple custom color choices then it's not a bad price. seems a little high though. any time you buy strings same as anything it's installed at no extra charge. mom and pop shops are usually a little higher than your bigger retailers like Cabelas, Lancaster, etc. That's normal.

I'm too much of a tinkerer to serve in the cord. after paper and simple walk back tuning I shoot out past 60 yards to tune to make the better grouping. usually it's moving the rest so little I don't need to re-time it at all but there's times where I do. probably more so because of OCD like tendencies more than anything.

I don't shed hunt and pull my cams after the season. only so much time I can invest before I get complaints from my other half. at some point I might go out but a lot still holding them. Maybe i'll hit up public land. trails should be worn in with little snow.

probably cams in time, bow in spec more or less, squaring arrow with the string and centered through berger hole, and then center shot eyeballed. $40 is more like a full tune as in that plus paper tuning. most shops don't do walk back tuning much unless they've got the room for more distance, which most don't. if it's a new bow that's it.. old bows they might charge maybe $10-20 more to strip it and lube axles and pockets. depends on the shop and how much business you've previously given them too.

they're out there a little further but good as far as i know. I don't really go there because it's not as close. i have been and gotten stuff from them in the past.

i can't remember if mine's 50 or 55 lbs at standard 28" draw. it varying with draw length with each bow. I've never actually had my draw weight measured. i use standard 100gr heads because their easier to come by. my insert is 100gr brass with i think a 20gr added weights inside the shaft. finished weight i just weighed and think it was something like 587 grains. i have wool yarn wrapped near the end loops and a set of thinner wool yarn puff balls i made. bow is super quiet.

I have a .223 die set with full length sizing die. I think I've read full length dies wear out a case quicker than just re-sizing the neck. only .223 I've got is my varmint rifle. all the brass I have is fired from that gun. would it help brass life and accuracy to get a neck resizing die?

some like spruce grow about anywhere. one thing I'd do is contact your county soil and water department to see what soil maps say is in your area and then plant conifers that'll do well in that soil. a mixture of high and low growth is probably good. deer like to see a little but need somewhat lower hanging branches for thermal cover. keep in mind some species of firs and cedars the deer will decimate before it gets established. you're probably not tenting/fencing everyone for protection either. you can mix some of the browsed species in and protect a them limited amount until they're established. then as wind or weather opens up canopy near them they'll naturally spread and provide food with seedlings.

Took it. Hope it helps in some way.

the only shops I know of around you and have experience with are Havoc Archery in Albany, Flying Arrow Sports in East Greenbush, and Marty's Sporting Goods in Bennington VT. I know of a guy that's in Sandgate VT that's really good. Also if you get in a bind I'm not far from you up above Troy.

be sure to ask what they do for each price. some shops will "tune" your bow but it's more or less setting everything with eyeballs and levels. not actually shooting it through paper with your arrows at various distances (say 5, 15, and 30 feet). going to a shop and shooting with those that shoot better than you will help. Most people who are really good are willing to help, if someone has ego driven "just because" answers just say thanks and don't ask them again... shops included.

I guess I could throw in the co-op I'm associated with in WMU 4C harvested 96 doe and 19 bucks on 17.5 square miles worth of land.

this. otherwise, people can argue or disagree, but personal attacks are what they are. don't do it. it renders threads with good info useless as nobody wants to read through it. that's where I stand.

never noticed the tilt. maybe because I almost always wear my glasses. vision is a weird thing though I guess. my vision is 20/25 in my left and a little better in my right but I've also got a slight astigmatism. I'm left eye dominant but mainly right handed. I learned to shoot right handed. i'll have to check the tilt thing. may depend on how strong your script is? I've never really noticed it. this spring and summer shooting long range i'll have to test everything out. it should change POI if you're saying there's a tilt.

like shawnhu said it's more about cheek weld. my dad has a 7600 pump 30-06 with see through rings and a scope on top. it's pretty accurate gun for what it is. people who aren't used to it would pick their heads up instead of staying on it, causing poor shooting. I don't think either my dad or me has ever used the open sights though in decades of use. scopes turned down to lowest power let in a lot of light. so much, you probably won't be able to see the open sights otherwise. only thing he was thinking was if you're back in the woods and take a fall which knocks the scope off zero.

no need to jump into any conspiracy theory, they're coming for our guns political thread. however, i do very strongly feel this has a lot of relevance to firearms and hunting with firearms. this ruling was huge. regardless of which judge is appointed to replace Scalia, or how any other justice's might be tempted to rule, this ruling can't be ignored. each ruling is still open for interpretation, but previous ruling can't really be ignored. not when the details are so very similar to those of the SAFE Act and our situation in NY.

104 yards ...pre-trigger pull, according to a Nikon Riflehunter 1000 range finder with angle mode on. T/C Prohunter 50 cal shooting down into a canyon in northwest Oklahoma. I practice and could hit a deer where I need to at 300 if it's feeding, calm, broadsided, and still probably. I can hit a vitals sized steel gong that far routinely. Not sure how much energy is left out that far though. I'd imagine it's lost a lot of knockdown power by then. I'd shoot a deer at 250ish yards if the conditions were right and I really had to..... maybe. only because I've seen it done with the load really close to what I'm using also out of a Prohunter. it's a poke though.