dbHunterNY

here in rensselaer it took about 8 months once all the paper work was in. i've got to write a letter and give reasons why to lift restrictions and pay money. maybe the lack of consistency from county to county is why many other states don't recognize the NY permit??

I've been to a camp where everyone hangs there antlers on a wall in a row. each row represents a year. ​one uncle pulled jaw bones from anyone's better bucks. didn't know how to read them but knew they were important. years later and now they're finally getting looked at.

I've assumed antlerless included fawns but not sure why they don't keep fawns separate. especially for the bowhunter log/survey that's early season. ​I was never good at movie references but then again I was born in '83.

one property i have went up and the other down for bucks any way. doe remained close to the same for both compared to last couple years. over the course of 5 years they're both maybe down just a tad. we've increased harvest quite a bit for doe since then so it makes sense.

distinctive physical stuff like you point out in WNY trail cam pics. it helps though to have a cam that takes better night time pics. some of my cams do and others i have don't. IR makes it tough vs flash (color) photos. to be honest i don't run cams much after the season.

What form of harvest data collection do you do, if any? also what do you do with that info? Many of us vary on this. Some keep a penned log or journal of each hunt. Some probably filled out and mailed in the their DEC bowhunter log. Some might collect info for weight, antler measurements, presence of milk if it's a doe, and other data from deer that they take. Maybe you extract the jawbone. Maybe you put it into the computer or maybe you just write it down on paper. Maybe you just log that it was a heavy drag on such date of harvest into memory. Maybe you just hang some antlers on a barn board with date, weight, or anything else scratched or burned onto it. Just think it'd be interesting to know what some of us on here are doing for after season harvest records. As years progressed and especially now, I do more than I care to type here. There is no wrong answer though and no reason to be little someone's minimum efforts for this. Some just buy and fill tags while others are more into deer management of some kind. whether it be antlers or herd quality or whatever.

I hope you get lots of interest. best of luck to your group.

you already have a good spot. only reason to do that might be to give deer something else with the acorns to browse on as they're passing through which could make them come a little closer to your stand for bowhunting versus further out into the oaks and parallel to your stand. the area would depend on your effective range with your archery gear and how much the deer are eating it down. shade tolerant cool season grasses and clovers for your area are probably what you'd put their. ask a local ag/seed store what you should use. you'll need to rake to get down to bare dirt. don't spray the area. if it's open to above that much you don't want to kill any natural browse. things that seem like just weeds to you can be candy for deer.

I really don't want to separate gun hunters from bowhunters. I mean I truly have no intentions or idea of how to make myself bi-polar.

maybe i'll check it out.

seems to be focused around the central NY. not sure if i'll do it yet. kind of interested though.

oh boy that's a big one.

I knew of one guy that forgot to take out the ram rod while firing at the bench. he said the gun kicked so hard the scope came back and just about knocked him cold out. dumbest thing I've done is while coming onto the target, before getting settled, the gun fired. finger was on the trigger before I was aiming. got all sighted in and carried the gun unloaded in my hand to check the target. slipped and slammed the scope on the ground. had to clean it and reload to check/re-zero it again.

my ProHunter wasn't cheap but it's a 300 yard gun. wouldn't shoot at game that far though. I'm some shooters will get timid after the first shot with that extra 50 grains. got to be pretty dirty too. out past 130 I don't get a really efficient clean burn.

I know some do it but don't girdle. you're just asking for a tree to fall on someone or something down the road when it's standing dead. if you're cutting anything down bigger than 6" diameter you should probably consult someone first. takes a while to get something like that back and you might wreck other desirable trees by dropping it. if you are set on taking it down then just drop it in a good spot versus letting fall in some unknown direction later. depending on what it is, cut it really low after felling and the stump will grow new stuff for reachable browse. no need to plant trees in areas like that. new growth will happen. douglas fir will get hammered by the deer and not survive. for solitary buck preferred bedding on stuff like points and other spots I think it's ok to have better food close as the doe get them moving during the season. for doe family groups they should move from point A to point B. point A bedding should have lower quality stuff to munch on but point B is what it is because it's much higher in quality like say an oak stand leading to a food plot or ag field.

haha... it's got a pretty high BC to still get out there to 300 yards without too much drop but still holds lots of energy out that far to knock rutting 4.5+ yr old off his feet. seems that a 150gr doesn't hit as hard out that far when I've taken deer. some other deer savy folk I'm associated with is set in mind to use a heavy chunk of lead for various reasons. their fond of 45-70s and 338-06s but I have neither of those.

could've said "it's ok it's the kind that goes... pew.... pew....pew... and not p-p-p-p-p-pew." even better you could've said "what's crazy, is to think I'd carry around a cop all day. I mean when you need help you need it quick!"

once I get everything I need to reload 30-06 I wanted to load some 210gr Nosler Accubond LR bullets but all my '06s have a 1 in 10" twist. Don't think it's enough. with a common 1 in 10" twist what's the pill any of you have gotten to shoot well?

the HHA geared dial ones are good. they make two different ones like that. also Spot Hogg are good. TRU Ball Axcel sights are the toughest I've used. their new single pin is pricey though. some things to consider a single pin is better for long range and dialing to exact yardage. also you'll like a smaller .010" fiber pin vs .019" so it doesn't take up so much of the target. adjustable pin brightness helps with glare but if you get a bright one sometimes housing can be covered with electrical tape to dim things. if you really want to reach out their then a smaller 1 5/8" pin guard is a must to clear the arrow vanes leaving the bow. I prefer a bigger one though as it's better for hunting; bigger sight picture and aligns with a bigger peep for more light in those first or last hours when you need it.

nobody's said the Beretta Nano.

I've watched a bearded boss hen in a flock of 50 turkeys. then another of 7 long beards. all younger birds though. this spring could be good.

land development definitely hurts game. unless you're well off money wise you're chopping up acreage. inherited lands usually get split up and sold off to some extent. leasing is common and hard for land owners to pass up to pay the bills. recreational use might be allowed through half a dozen properties but the one guy that owns the key property between them doesn't want any wheels touching his dirt no matter how respectful. another lives out of town and shows up with 20 friends to hunt and says yea I own the wood lot there so go hunt that. mean while they own 10% of it but treat things as if they own the whole thing. worst one that's the hardest to deal with is when extended family poorly uses a property that one of them owns. they do as they please as if they own it and then the actual owner gets discouraged. doesn't want to saying anything because family is more important but then doesn't care to use what they pay for as they don't want any drama. the list is long.

pole a hand saw are a must if you intend to keep doing this. easy to go too far through with a chainsaw. another thing is bringing down your bigger base trees to good resting spot 6' up versus pulling the top all the way to the ground and possibly pinching off the outer portion of the tree that it uses to draw up nutrients and water. it's a good thing so it doesn't break but you get tired quick trying to pull trees down that are hung up.

hope things are looking up for them every day. I'm sure he's rather busy.

if it's really bad i leave my butler creek bikini scope cover on. i've pulled it off easily and completely quiet at a moments notice. a vast majority of the time i just keep the gun horizontal as I can and I've got the lenses treated. they were some wipes I got a while back but they're gone. worked really well on beading up water and making the lens fog resistant. since then I've used the similar stuff that I get with my glasses but it doesn't work quite as well.