dbHunterNY

Just put a whole house in line filter in line with it and a valve in front of that. You don't want it to freeze and crack. Same with the heater. But you could then drain it through the filter system. Just un screw the filter can and then open the filter valve on top with a bucket under it.

noticing no talk of chufa. never tried it. anyone using it this far north? results? maybe you'd have to cultivate it in fall at minimum depth to expose the good stuff so it's not worth it?

I've got an adjustable Burris Speed Bead that mounts between the butt stock and receiver. if the battery dies I can still see the through it and use the stock bead, but the red dot can be dialed in to adjust for changes in point of impact from the chokes. mainly have it for aiming with close in shots so I don't miss as the pattern's the size of a fist.

....also a radio or your TV on a wall outlet timer is good. change it now and then when you happen to walk by it or think about it. park the third vehicle in random spots like it's in the middle of use.

haven't tried the blend yet but a dozen or more loads, including some from hevi-shot. by far and across the board for all loads Pure Gold .670 ported choke has performed as well for some and better than most other chokes. I've got over half a dozen after market tubes I've tested. None were Sumtoy, Indian Creek, or Rhino. Many other popular and proven ones though. PureGold has a pretty gradual transition from bore to max constriction by design. I think my tighter Benelli bore adds to that. Also I can't imagine how good it'd be if I had the forcing cone lengthened versus stock barrel it is now.

the design is meant for the stiff wad to stay with the shot longer to keep it together longer. some are getting great results with ported, tight chokes but it's working against the design and just utilizing the dense shot at that point. not sure why they don't put HW shot in a normal wad for those setups.

haven't found an even nice pattern yet with flightcontrols out of a tighter choke. in theory the more open/closer to bore it is the better but I've got the best with longer full constriction skeet/trap chokes.

my greatest bowhunting success was going to a public land swamp up north. I shot a younger buck and thought about passing it because it was young. However, I'd never hunted or been there before. Scouted my way in, picked a spot based on recent sign left, wind, and figuring in a nearby private land food source I checked from the truck driving the adjacent roads. I shot the buck at 12 yards, a few miles in. No idea what might have been there but I figured that buck would be and was an accomplishment, reason for taking the shot. it made for some great stories that night with the recovery among my cousins and brother that were also hunting there for the first time; some getting lost, some falling in waist deep creeks, and figuring out how to get the buck out.

a lot can happen in 60 yards. anyway look into heavier bolts and if you're using an expandable, switch to a smaller diameter cut on contact head or close to it head. otherwise the added 30-50 fps will do you limited good and only make a louder smack sound when it hits. KE stats for a bow and penetration a setup gets are two different things. A lot like having luck on their side but it's not often there, which is why it's called hunting. Best of luck with the crossbow and getting more under your belt.

only way I know without getting too many devices and hardware is to use motion lights outdoors then have them have them wired to a electrically latched audible device inside. haven't looked into it myself as I have a system installed. I know they make outdoor motion lights with remote audible to put inside that you can get at home depot but don't know if they're latched. depending on the time delay of the light you don't want the audible inside to go back off unless you hit some kind of reset or connected light switch. don't know your house floor plan but unless it's open or you have a main and straight hallways it's not really feasible to put something inside. also if they see it's a home brewed system they might not be deterred. if they just hear an alarm noise not knowing what it is they probably won't hang around. I feel like it's a case of the weather finally turning mild. same issues around my parent's area.

now that the snow is melting a little and the deer can start feeding again in spots, i'll go shed hunting briefly. also i'll try to get in where I can to small hunt plots and spray if there's anything close to green or if not then I use the cultivators. i'll go back and plant depending the weather and what we're getting for frost. some plots i'll frost seed in the spring early that are deeper in and others close enough I can water to start germination i'll do last in the spring. all my stands are pulled before winter really sets in. winter yarding can be different than fall ranges for properties I hunt and limited quality bucks might only be in certain areas of the properties but i'll look for new stand locations too. other than that it's normal farm stuff for spring; equipment maintenance, plowing, clean up barn yard and barns to fill back up with hay, etc. before it gets too greasy I help cut fire wood too for my parents or brother.

this past deer season I "squeeked" in a fisher. slowing down the video it got close enough. it started to leap from a small log at my foot to the next location which was my leg! I kicked my foot and made a loud "pshhhh-ttt" sound to keep it from jumping on me. lol it darted off and then poked it's head up on the other side of some cover maybe 2 yards away. on of the craziest and entertaining encounters I've had in the deer woods.

I don't get to hunt during the week... distance to the office and being a busy time of year it doesn't work to hunt mornings. So that leaves weekends. It's my wife's birthday that month plus it starts to warm up and stuff is going on during the weekends... like clock work every year. I usually get around 5 mornings to hunt with little time to scout. I'm relatively young though. I try not to make mistakes but we all do. Heck half those mornings things are botched by other hunters I know walking through the middle of the dang fields. I was working a couple big toms across a field then they turned and left. turns out my uncle was struttin through the middle of the adjacent field I was in. come on! it's all good though.

1) 18" is fine or in the low 20's. 2) Box call or slate calls are all good. people call too much and try to get too fancy. sparingly yelping on a box call works great and it's the easiest to use. 3) full camo with mess gloves and mesh face mask. HS makes them and the head mesh mask open on the top. skin is bright and shiny when out in the heat closer toward late morning. you can pull it down off your face and pull it back up quick versus if it had a closed top. just don't wear snow camo and you'll be fine. lighter is better for our May season. 4) just scout from a distance and listen first thing in the AM and in the PM before dark. turkeys will be where they are but they make noise to make your job a little easier. 5) lead shot use #5 and anything denser use #6 or 7. don't shoot farther than 35 yards. aim at head and top of neck. test setup to see how it patterns using bigger sheet of craft paper or fresh cardboard with a turkey target taped to it. shoot fresh target a few times at 35 yards. dozen pellets at least in the turkeys brain or neck/spine and you're probably alright. when you get a choke make sure it's ok to use with higher density than lead shot. longer chokes with ports work well most of the time. 6) kids move a lot. turkeys are dumb and don't really notice big square things opposed to you. if you see something but don't shoot it you did good. if you don't see anything there won't be much excitement or desire to do it again. put a ground blind up where the turkeys will be. sit and wait. call a LITTLE if you're bored. bring a camera, binoculars, and quiet snacks/drink. ...also bring bug spray at least and a Thermacell preferably. aside from your weapon with ammo it's the second most important thing.

First you pretty much get what you pay for but knowing limitations of less stuff will help you get by just fine with it. 1) Releases are the perfect other thing to shop around for especially on ebay. When convenient check some out in the store or bow shop first when you're there to get a feel for stuff. entry level means you're going with a wrist strap/index trigger release. entry cheap hand held releases are junk if they're comparable in price to what you're looking at. the whole idea of using a hand held is they can be better quality and break/release cleaner and crisper to surprise you when it happens. assuming you're just focused on aiming at that point, it's a good thing. Know that a Velcro strap is less consistent than a buckle strap when it comes to tightness and anchor point at full draw. also it's dead silent compared to noisy as heck velcro. also adjustability for length/distance the release head is from the wrist strap is paramount. when on your wrist laying in your palm it wants to extend no farther than your middle joint of your middle finger. different topic but that will help you shoot better. to get a cheap but quality one with these options look into a buckle with a nylon strap or rope affixed to the head. TRU Ball Scout, TRU Ball Shooter, and Scott Samurai are examples. there's around $40-60 without shopping on ebay and cutting $ that in half. don't go with a cheap one with a tubing covered threaded rod to attach the release head. they're initially waaayyyy too long and to adjust them you take it apart and hack saw the rod shorter. if you screw it up the release is junk before you really get to use it much. otherwise a release can out last any archery gear you've got. 2) once you have the cams put on you can have it measured for arrow length but it'll probably be your draw length or minus an inch. getting these from a shop is ok. the correct size/stiffness/spine is important. maybe too stiff is much better than maybe not stiff enough. also when they're cut the ends should be squared with a squaring tool. if the inserts at the end of the arrow aren't square with the length of the arrow shaft you're broadheads won't be either so they won't fly as straight or accurate as they could. it's like having crooked wings. so just ask when they're being or before done. it's not extra and should be done. buying arrows somewhere else and having them cut somewhere they didn't come from costs extra and makes any savings a wash. good durable cheap ones are Goldtip Devastators $30 per half dozen but they're at Dick's they won't square then ends most likely. $40-45 anywhere or at a shop will get you half dozen Goldtip Xpedition Hunters which are tough as nails, cheap, and a good arrow among others. remember all arrows can break or get beaten up so you will have to buy more. might as well buy cheap but durable ones to make your $ work for you the longest. 3) only thing you have to maybe worry about NYS regs wise is a "barbed" broadhead they give a description in the Hunting regs guide you can get anywhere you get a hunting license. if it's a fixed blade you can't have the ends of the blades make a backwards facing point. with expandable broadheads have to hinge forward. G5 expandable heads by design are more or less illegal in NY but you'll find them on shelves. I think the idea is the arrow can pull out on its own if the deer were wounded with a nonfatal shot, giving it a better chance to recover and live. new broadheads can also be purchased cheaper on online, like ebay. hope that helps

that's odd your backups for a straight walled cartridge are those.

are we answering in feet, lengths of deer, or car lengths? just wonderin'. only reason to get a 270 in my mind is "a yaht 6 kicks way too much!", in which i'll agree that a 270 has less recoil but not by much. im not partial to either other than the fact I've got a couple 30-06 rifles and no 270. if i started to shoot some big stuff I'd feel a little better with an 30-06 breathing fire and a bigger bullet. it's silly to argue one versus the other though. i don't care who used what, back when.

what I shoot is usually way shorter than what I can with confidence and am set up to. I've got an area/valley where I can shoot several hundred yards but most of the time I setup to shoot within 300 yards. in the woods it's usually bow range or 80 yards through open hardwoods before things get really tight even with something like a 30-06.

...so I think it's worth it but not required. saves you time getting sighted in well though.

once the bow is tuned and sighted in you'll pretty much not have to touch it. as you shoot thought and get in better or worse shape your form changes very slightly. you might see a slight change of point of impact then but not much that many worry about. that said micro adjust is nice to get dialed exactly right on. multiple ways some do it but my Axcel sight for example you loosen allen screw for a pin then turn the micro adjust knob to move it and the others stay in place. otherwise you loosen the pin screw and hope you don't bump the pin and lose your previous spot. in general you're getting more than micro adjust though. usually sights with micro adjust are just built to take abuse better then cheaper ones without with say hard polymer plastic pins and/or housing.

good point. at 6 yrs old the draw length might be pretty short to make up for a short axle to axle length.

easiest would be cut down finger tab. releases aren't too hard but a little more to deal with.

it's important to due your due diligence and collect as much information to help the ECO's out. many counties are big with them spread out. reports after the fact is like a lost cause to them. they don't have much of anything to go by. talk to DEC and see if it's possible they have a decoy to set up if it's a reoccurring problem. they might not have a antlerless decoy though. you have the poaching problems of hunting over bait and what not that are pretty common. however, the trespassing and shots at night with a light stuff goes on without enough of a penalty or fines. many times it's the same individual that does it and has gotten caught in the past. hardship my a$$... shooting a deer with a light, out of season, on someone else's property, and that close to someone else's house none the less is wrong. what if kids were having a backyard camp out but sleeping with the fire out?! they should lock them up and take away everything they used to jack the deer. gun, ammo, truck, .... everything.

most of your compound target bows these days are between 35-41" axle-to-axle length. most being 37-40". unless it was a recurve target setup, I'm not sure as if I've seen one more like 60+" end to end.

had multiple cousins out yesterday catching them. I was at work.