dbHunterNY

2003 Chevy Cavalier blue 2 door couple, manual shift, power nothing.... not even a cassette tape deck. FM stereo and AC are only "options". 141,000+ miles. take it hunting. one spring I practically buried in the mud to go turkey hunting.

I'd go one in winter grains like what was said. Also I've had good luck in late season with Antler King Honey Hole. Otherwise go with a clover blend and maybe even some trefoil to take the grazing pressure that the deer will put on them being that secluded.

standard going rate seems to be $23.99 for the 525 round brick of Remington Golden Bullet 22LR. I wouldn't pay more unless you're looking at really high velocity stuff. I have found a semi-auto that these won't cycle in though, so for their weight and velocity they're good. Not match specs but that's different.

i was posting based on my personal experience. i got notifications from Midway and that's the only ammo i bought online. the rest of it in person. you aren't driving around all the time. you show up when it's convenient and in some times phone calls help. i got all i need. i've stopped looking. multiple times i've talked to individuals behind the counter and once they've figured out i wasn't just buying it to buy it and hoard it away.... "the last box" would show up. you just have to make an effort, roll with the situation, and be patient.

tough to take forum and internet info as truth and law. you really need to read through the actual bill and amendments to truly know what the deal is. I haven't heard anything about this and it wouldn't make sense, so I have a hard time excepting it as truth.

how traumatized would the teachers be if the kids brought in all their noise making and nerf shooting toy guns and then changed their minds and caused a noise filled classroom with nerf balls and arrows launching through the air. lol

seeings how we're talking about dream guns.... I want a Gunwerks LR-1000 shooting system chambered in 7mm LRM with the long range package, titanium action, barrel fluting, and muzzle break. I want to still hunt with it but want something with all the work already done to be capable at 1000 yards on anything in North America.

you can't cruise the net to find this stuff. got to show up in the stores or make phone calls. otherwise you're competing to get ammo with everyone is looking and can go online. if you do see it online it's gone in less than an hour or you're paying waaayyyyy too much.

Here's an update from my end.... I've managed to find all I need to shoot that's been in short supply for 9mm, 22LR, and 223. I've got most (600 of 750 rounds) of the 9mm from Dick's Sporting Goods. then 900 of 1425 rounds of 22LR from Dick's Sporting Goods. The remainder of that is from local gun shops. Also 223 Rem I had around 130ish rounds of 223 left. Then picked up 60 rounds of Hornady Superperformance 53gr Vmax to try in my varmint rifle from Dick's Sporting Goods. I usually only shoot factory Black Hills loaded with Hornady 60gr vmax loads from that gun. Well Midway contacted me last week when they got some of that finally in stock. So they sent me the policy max of 2 50 round boxes of that. That was the blue box stuff too so it was $33.89 per 50 rounds which isn't bad. So that makes close to 300 rounds of 223 which should be good for a couple summers at most worth of woodchucks on the family farm. shotgun and deer rifle (30-06) rounds are just out there and I had plenty of that before. stuff is coming in you just have to pay attention and mainly be patient.

a while back I got a ton of Strike King Kevin VanDam Perfect Plastics with infused coffee and garlic scent. bunch of colors and styles and each pack was only around $2.

with your uncle owning only 50 acres, hunting and scouting that in a low impact way is essential. just like hunting small patches of cover down in NJ, access to it is most important. if you can't get in there without deer smelling or hearing you then forget it. try to use a creek bottom or side ridge that's not used for bedding if you've got either of those. all they make plantable stuff to use as cover into your hunting area like Fridged Forage Plot Screen. When hunting bigger chunks of woods hunt converging ridges or saddles where it's easier for deer to cross a big ridge. hunt "edges", spots where different types of habitat or stands of trees come together. for example bewteen a stand of pine woods that turns into primarily hardwoods. Another example, an old field overgrown with brush meeting the edge of woods. also sometimes deer will travel through big woods in a certain direction because they're heading to nearby ag fields to feed later in the night. know the area around the area you hunt too... drive public roads and/or use google or bing maps aerial/birdseye views. that some tips i've got. hope that helps.

used to... last aluminums i shot were 2119s i think. i shoot carbon now, except for target stuff indoors.

nice! mines in my basement

nobody has asked about your setup yet. what's your draw weight, draw length (or height if you don't know it), bow, and what you're hunting? just about any broadhead will kill something but certain bow setups work better with different types or size of broadheads. i shoot both mechanicals and fixed blades for different setups. I've shot Muzzy's for a while and now shoot Rage heads with my compound and then shoot NAP hellrazors with my recurve.

buy arrows that are all the same (points, length, brand, model, fletching). different arrows that are even of the same weight with certain points won't flex the same and have the same FOC (balance). therefore they will most definitely fly different. by all means practice with hunting arrows. don't shoot those thunder heads at the same spots though. you'll shave off fletching or get lucky and robin hood an arrow.

a kisser button should be used with a peep sight. you can tie them in or some come with crimp rings to keep them in place. they help a ton if the back wall on your bow isn't the best and for simply another point of reference for creating a consistent anchor. i have my bows setup to use a peep also and the peep is sized so my circular pin guard on my sight just barely fits within the peep. my pins then are set at each distance showing me the complete trajectory of my arrow when at full draw. if i settle in on bottom 1/3 of the vitals at 40 yards with my 40 yard pin and i notice my 30 yard pin is on a branch that's close to 30 yards away then i know i'm missing the animal. i will wait to take the shot. the whole time that kisser button should be in the corner of my mouth not pulling on the crease of my lips any different and with slight pressure on a specific tooth under my lips. just backstraps in the freezer then.

smaller square bales in a single deep stack of two won't stop an arrow any moderately fast arrow. two bales deep and you might be good. they will tear up vanes/fletches though. you're better off spending $100 and getting a Rhinehart Rhinoblock target. in the long run that will be cheaper and easier to use anyway.

looking to put a couple clover plots along a creek bottom to choke out weeds, provide food, and provide a staging area.

he knows his stuff... not bullet proof but still good info. if you haven't read his book, Strategies for Whitetails, then you should.

i know there's some at our club North Troy, but looking just now i don't see them on the list.

i'd try local rod and gun clubs too joe.

same as most... i good except for a bear. yet to see one in the wild around here. others have though.

hopefully they get up and run or we see them when mowing then. kind of hard not to disturb them in some way when they're bedded in the tall standing hay.

i use a burris speed bead. if something happens and it stops working you can still use the factory bead/sights. however, you can sight it in to fine tune your exact point of impact with different loads.

definitely a cool concept. still need to fine tune for the longer ranges though. haven't looked at one enough for see how durable it'd be.