dbHunterNY

Matt i usually use my Gerber Gator matchete, but when you get that rugged and out there I'd say go with the Gerber Gator Axle 2..... http://www.gerbergear.com/Hunting/Gear/Gator-Combo-Axe-II_31-001357 they also make a smaller verisons of it with a knife that goes in the handle instead of a saw blade with it's own handle.... http://www.gerbergear.com/Outdoor/Gear/Gator-Combo-Axe-_31-001854

there where a lot of big deer taken from there this past deer season though.

i've seen many deer hit in the backstrap area just above the intestines or lungs and survived it. the arteries and spinal cord weren't hit and all of them seemed to be low angles from the ground either stalking or from a blind. only "dead space" i know of. the chances of an arrow making it through there without hitting something else aren't very high at all but still exist. i've got the D&DH Shot Simulator on my phone too. I will say it's worth it. I don't use it much for my shots much. However, if you're shot is on film or your using it as a learning tool it works great! even tells you what to expect or do tracking wise.

congrats!.... nice buck.

now's the time to buy archery stuff, now that it's after deer season. i've got meta peeps and QAD rests on my bows and i'm very happy with them. make sure you shoot that string around 50 times or so to let it settle and break-in then get things tuned up.

i agree with what's been said... i do all mine. i have since i started hunting and even helped my family members before i could take my own deer. i think i have a good idea what you're talking about. make sure you get the hide off ASAP and then feel free to let it age in a controlled 35-37 degrees. then when you cut it up any of that can be scraped off. it's not really slime but a membrane that's a little slippery and what not.

i would try and use different sabots. it should be a tighter fit to acheive consistant spin for tight groups. i shoot a T/C that has a tighter bore. right now i shoot hornady 250gr sst low drag sabots and they load easy but not too easily. tc shock wave yellow sabots are a little bigger and then the black ones are even bigger than that. harvestor sabots can be a little thicker too. you should be able to load a sabot relatively easily but still with a firm push on the rod. you should swab the barrel between each shot unless shooting Blackhorn 209. this gives you a consistent bore from shot to shot and thus tighter groups. that's my opinion.

not to get off topic but what i meant by it having a horrific trigger is it had a rough pull with some creep and over travel. basically you want a trigger to travel smoothly with a consistant pull all the way until it breaks and breaks cleanly. if it feels as if you can feel the mechanics and parts rubbing against either other then you can't pull smoothly without the crosshairs moving just a tad. if you have good shooting forum to pull straight back on the trigger you can shoot even a heavy trigger with a nice pull. a rough trigger isn't good though.

i'll add that my shots will be out past 100 yards, with a max i've taken to be somewhere around 175 yrds for the 17 HMR. at these ranges i'd think regardless of which one i had, i'd need to make a headshot on a chuck. that's why i've been leaning toward the 17 HMR. Early at what ranges are you shooting them with a 22 mag and what kind of accuracy are you getting? i'd think you'd need to get at the very least 1.5 MOA accuracy.

....of $2.5 million, no, i agree with you if that's all we get. seems like the numbers you posted doesn't add up to getting much for the $. if it sets things up for further expansion and mfg of marlin rifles and they now have the capacity for more jobs or taxed revenue coming back to NY than that's something different. i don't know which is the case. you know an answer to that? like i said i'm ok with providing contracts that are bid on and not just awarded at an inflated price. if they're within a certain percentage of the low bid then i don't see why we wouldn't want to keep that money here in NY. wasn't trying to single tony m out either, just saying to a small extent taxes we pay do end up funding private business. no way around it.

So maybe some can shed a little light on this. Sorry it's a long debated subject. I've got multiple farms and tracts of land in the family. Past few years I've started hunting woodchucks, so they don't ruin it all. Some fields are close to some houses and I FEEL that as long as they're ok with me shooting within 500 feet of their houses I should meet them half way and not continue to shoot my .223 Rem. I'm looking into much quieter alternatives such as the 17 HMR and the 22 mag. Researching them, many have told me or posted in forums that 22 mag will fight the wind better. I'm left scratching my head, because the 17 HMR was designed to be a better alternative in general than the 22 mag. Also every ballistic data i can find out there says 17 HMR flat out handles the wind better. I've even just custom tables printed out in front of me right now. Anyone care to share as to why people might be saying the 22 mag is better? Still not sure what route i want to go.... heavier bullet with more penetration (22 mag) or laser like accuracy (17HMR)... or wait until monday and see how winchester's new rimfire pans out. as of right now taking everything into account i'm leaning toward a Savage in 17 HMR.

I won't sell my '11 Evo for a long long time. Shot 300+/330 scores with it this past summer in a 3D outdoor league (40 yrd max). Also shot a buck with it this season up north on state land. This Hoyt bow fell into my lap so to speak. RKT cams are smooth i will say. I just drew it back though. Haven't done anything with it yet. not even a biscuit and Dloop. It's still new in the box.

I have a couple rifles that shoot between 1" and 1.5" groups with the 150gr Core-lokts. My Browning Abolt being the 1.5" grouper haven't found much that it likes yet. which is odd. My dad has a Remington 7600 pump in 30-06 that he bought years ago at Woolworth's i think. He's never cleaned it and shoots 150gr Core-lokts only through it ever since he bought it. It will hold within 2" groups at 200 yards any day of the week. I'd be affraid to clean it. that thing would be my dream gun if it wasn't for the horrific trigger.

i disagree to point with what tony m said.... if military and police here in NY have a need for a product then by all means buy it from a business that supports jobs and people in NY. that's assuming contracts are bid on and the cost isn't much more than getting stuff from somewhere else. Remington has incentive then for staying in NY, opposed to moving all those jobs elsewhere. that's my opinion.

I use whatever I've got... I've hunted yotes with anything from a .223 bull barreled varmint rifle, 300 win mag, 30-06, 12ga shotgun, to 50 cal ML. I've even taken red fox with a bow, but no yotes yet with one. right now my guns of choice are a savage m12 in .223 Rem topped with a Nikon varmint scope and my Benelli Supernova with burris fast fire red dot.

try to find some sheds, small game hunt with my recurve, scout for public ground for next year, maybe a couple indoor leagues (vegas or traditional gear and technohunt), predator hunting (most likely with a gun though). then in the summer... 3D league with my hunting bow (hopefully i can win the league this time around), lots of woodchuck slaying on my parent's farm, throw in a little fishing too, etc etc... everyday life stuff..... etc etc.

last doe i got with the muzzleloader i cut up the heart and packaged it like that. labeled it fajitas even...lol got some red and green peppers and onion sealed and frozen too from the garden this past summer. looks good.

lots of tips and tricks when you get into it.... like grind meat really cold. when it gets warm ground meat sticks to everything. also when first grinding, cut meat into strips. the auger will pull it through the grinder better. second time through "trickle" in small pieces of ground meat, opposed to packing it down the tube then needing to use the plunger rod. another one is deer skin multiple times easier when still warm, opposed to doing so after hanging a while. like i posted in another thread i bone everything out and let it sit in the fridge (35-37 degrees) for a week or so to age. just make sure the meat doesn't drain and it's sitting in blood the whole time.

Try mine... About a pound of venison hamburger meat. When I say this I mean it. No mixing anything else in with it! No beef, turkey, or pork... this isn't a hotdog recipe! Also, I do my own processing and try to keep more fat and grizzle out of the grinder, that stuff on a deer is just too tough and nasty tasting. Melt some butter, oil, or spray the pan, whichever it is you do. -------- Stuff -------- - 1 Egg - 1/3 cup bread crumbs (unseasoned is fine) - 1 tsp. garlic salt - 1 tBsp of lemon & pepper seasoning (McCormick is good stuff) or Weber Grill's Gourmet Burger seasoning is good too. - 1/2 tbsp yellow mustard - 1 tbsp or so of red wine (for cooking drinking or both) - smoked cheddar or gouda cheese - ranch dressing - whole wheat rolls I'm guessing at the amounts as I always do it by eye. If you can't or don't eat wheat rolls or any of the other stuff i feel bad. Thoroughly mix egg, garlic salt, lemon pepper, and wine in a mixing bowl, while you slowly stir in the bread crumbs. Add the bread crumbs slowly until it gets to a paste like consistency. After that stir in the mustard so it mixes evenly. Add in the venison burger and mix it all really well. Shape into patties and cook to your liking on medium heat. Add thin slices of smoked cheddar toward the tail end to melt it a little. Feel free to add some lettuce or whatever you feel like and enjoy! ....Hopefully

i use a bucket loader but any decent a gambrel and rope hoist with pulleys will work. also need a good sharp knife. i used a lanski pocket knife that's served me well. it's used from field to freezer. also a i use a smith's carbide and ceramic sharpener with "v"s you pull the blade through. regular surgical gloves are good to keep your hands clean and stuff out from under your nails. also you will knick your fingers at some point.... so a Rapala fillet glove or something similar is a good idea for hand not holding the knife. meat tubs or pans are handy but in a pinch cheap foil disposable pans also work to separate ground stuff and different cuts. also you'll need a good electric grinder. i use a commercial Hobart grinder that'll grind a rifle down, but cabelas commerical series grinders are affordable and work great 3/4 horse is all you need. http://www.cabelas.c...80;cat104364180 it's good to have a larger port size 7mm plate to grind once and then a small one 4.5mm to ground through a second time. sharpie black marker to date and label stuff. i use 3lb weston ground meat bags for ground venison. they've got markings in 1lb increments on them. also for everything else a good vaccuum sealer/food saver is a must!!! i used to package in commerical plastic wrap and freezer paper but not anymore. nothing gets freezer burn when i've vaccuum sealed. .....cutting board and some other obvious stuff too

i just got a 4S... too cheap for the 5. started using google earth, Scoutlook, and D&DH shot simulator (not GPS related). your position will migrate a little back and forth if you're zoomed way in. you'll be within 10 yards though.

i've had luck hunting there when i used to live in buffalo. archery only section on the other side of the creek is good but a lot is tough to get in there undetected and the wind swirls too much in a couple of the hollows. another spot people over look is the swamp on the south end in the middle. there's a guy that gets a big one out of there every year according to the guys in the maintenance shop where you sign in. there's some pine stands and swamp continuing to the south east corner that hold deer this late. hunters come up from the south end because of the houses there. they don't make it that far in. across the road you can ask the FD to park in there lot of the way, and that way you're right there to walk in. done that before. the mowed paths deer feed on at night mostly. we would ride mountain bikes in there to get places quicker if you're not carrying a stand.

too far for that much land.... great price though. good luck selling it.

i've found this to be true. here's why i think why. ideally you want the bullet to just barely exit and practically fall to the ground. with a rifle any pass through is wasted energy that's not discipated into the animal. all 30-06 bullets i've had pass throughs with regardless of where i shot. i found that with deer sized game most hits in the vitals went through minimal bone and significant muscle mass. the heavier bullets i've found to punch through too much and not expand creating lots of shock. 150 grain bullets seems to put deer sized animals down better. at 300 yards and under, i'd shoot everything EXCEPT maybe the biggest stuff in North America (Brown Bears, Grizzly, Moose which I haven't hunted yet) with a 150 gr bullet. If you can find a round with that weight that shoots well from your gun that's what i'd suggest.

start cheap. shoot a box to see how it shoots. change to something different if you don't like the accuracy enough. Only shooting longer range should you consider only high quality (expensive by design, with high ballistic coefficients) bullets. At common hunting ranges cheap stuff may shoot just as good as anything. Every gun could like something different.