Dinsdale
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Posts posted by Dinsdale
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Whatever remains will be scavenged by coyotes rather quickly.
It just seems like a daunting task to do in the field.
It will certainly make me think about the terrain I hunt in for next season.
Very easy to do, but yes you do need to be prepared for the carry.
You treat it as two sides; not front and rear. Doing one side, then rolling over to the other. Nothing will touch the ground unless you are sloppy.
I debone everything and if given extra time cape it; if for a mount.
In a way its easier because the animal is warm; skin pulls with minimal cutting and easy long strokes of the blade, and the joints and muscle are flexible for manipulating the carcass. Without the bone, even the biggest deer packs well.
I carry a piece of 3 mil plastic sheeting, about 5 ft square to toss cuts on, a few kitchen size trash bags, one knife to work along bone, a Piranta for flesh cuts(skinning and muscle)and caping.
You can do a meat doe in very short order.
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Sent you a PM.
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Read this;
http://www.gunsamerica.com/blog/minute-of-angle-moa-accuracy-out-of-the-box/
That TC Axis can be had for $399 with a scope, same barrel as their Icon.
Suggest a 270 Win for overall performance on most things you will encounter. At 200 yd zero you will have about 7" low at 300 and be 1.5" high at 100.
Cheap ammo= you will shoot and practice more. With top quality ammo= anything in N. America short of large bears(maybe Bison, but it has been done)
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I had an early Browning Gold Hunter Series in 12ga, that made several trips to Browning.
Anything under 30* was a disaster and would not cycle even if bone dry. I understand that subsequent models were redisigned for the gas system as I did recieve a recall letter, but by that time the gun was gone. And considerable postage paid for returns was spent.
Beretta slug barrel did require several different loads to decide on what was most effective, but I think that is common for most slug guns. I don't use it much, as i have gone to a 20ga instead; but accurate as I was shooting.
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FWIW;
I have a Beretta 391 with both 28" bird and slug barrel(cantilever scope) in 12 ga and have had excellent results with both.
Had 2 other gas operated guns and this requires far less maintenance(ie. easy to clean) and is by far the most reliable I have owned.
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Love to have that 300wsm for a Mnt Goat in BC......
Have to saw off the bolt handle and get it on the otherside.
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Answered your PM re 270's
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Start by reading this;
http://www.opticsplanet.net/how-to-choose-riflescope.html
Give you some terms and understanding of numbers and such
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Had seen this on 24hr. when you posted a few days ago. Good stuff.
Know another guy who has several ULA/NULA's now, including the MZ Loader; nothing but raves about them. On my short list for the near future.
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Another option is to find a higher price scope but at a discounted price.
This guy deals in new and demo units that are fully warrentied and checked before sale. I have bought several products from him over the years both camera and hunting optics.
He updates a list several times a week here;
That Minox 3-9x40 plex is a very good deal for the price vs. quality of the optics.
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Any of the 130-150's would be fine if they shot well from my gun. Something thats medium in construction; Core-loc; Nosler Partition etc.
My gun likes 140 A-frames...but I mostly trophy hunt; my intention is to break some bones on an offside shoulder. When you are away from home dropping $$$ into a hunt I have a different purpose than trying for clean double lung shots for a meat animal. Different construction for different purpose.
On action read my post above on use and go handle some. A Ti Rem 700 is wonderful to carry,not as good on the bench, because its light, and is $900.....a standard 700 is about $500. I like light guns; I like to walk; heavy shoots good but not great in the field if moving all day. A pound difference can suck up some recoil though, so there is a balance that you have to find.
Buy 2, 270win snap caps when shopping and pull the trigger(always ask!!!). Light and crisp(like breaking glass) is better than heavy with creep(the trigger moves alot before going off) for accuracy. If you can't feel the trigger; no sense in looking at it.
Shoulder some and see how they fit for you.
Put more into the optics if you can. Can't see it; can't hit it. A good piece of glass can travel gun to gun over a long time if cared for; or could last a lifetime.
There are some good bargains on the used market also;if you are patient and keep looking around; and if you can narrow down what feels good to you.
Just some thoughts as there are too many choices to answer YOUR question definitively on what YOU want. Got to put some in your hands
Good luck
Check your PM's, sent you a note
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Here you can find a good basis for the ammo availible and weights. You will notice most offerings are 130-150 with a few 110 lightweight faster rounds intended to shoot flatter for light varmint game.
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I'm waiting on a delivery; so I'll play;
I assume you mean a 270 Winchester as opposed to say a Weatherby;
In general most 270win's shoot 140gr as standard. 130's and 150's are availible. Some of the newer monometal bullets (like a Barnes TSX) like to go a little faster so a 130 would be a good choice. Bullet choice is a combination of what the target is and what the gun shoots well; a fragmenting round is OK for varmints but could spoil a fair amount of meat; say on a deer. Trying a few different combinations of bullet weights and construction types will produce the best accuracy.
Zeroed at 200 yds; most rounds will drop about 7" at 300; and be 1.5" high at 100. So a some hold over will be required as you get past 200. A 400 yd shot drops around 24" for comparison.
I would put a decent 3-9 or 2.5-8 as you can see longer shots require some more skills to make up for bullet drop. The lower the number the wider the field of view, and better in thick stuff where shots could come quick; and you need to reaquire the animal after a first shot.
Do not neglect good rings as they are the point of connection for accuracy between scope and rifle.
Decide how you are going to use the rifle for decision on style of gun. If you intend to walk and hunt rough country; most are inclined to carry a lighter weight. If you are recoil shy and intend to stand hunt; extra weight matters less. A heavy tacticool stock may look impressive but may have your arms dragging at the end of the day.
Brand flavor is a matter of personal opinion and I don't think you could go wrong with much of what's on the market.
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Good info, thanks for the post.
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Sorry for your loss.
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Interesting dilemma, I think you made a good decision.
Maybe Diana will smile on you for it in the future.
Good hunting.
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Good stuff!
I hunted for whitetails here with a Merkel double in 9.3x74; had a nice claw mount setup from NEGC. Was a friends that was "on loan" while he was stationed overseas for a few years. Took a few does with it, but never a big buck
In your travels I'm looking for a Merkel/Sauer/German Guild SxS in 16ga as a donor....box lock or sidelock; either is fine. Dented/bent/bulged barrels OK and could even be off face. I just need the action and lock as I want to build a 22 Hornet double off the action.
I have the barrels and am looking around for a suitable donor, prefer a German action for stronger proof marks as typical. I am going to restock it so wood is also not an issue but would like all the hardware to be intact for the fore end.
If you spot anything I would be greatly appreciative of any heads up.....
Best of luck shooting!
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I won't say more to avoid any hostility from others.
Thanks for the comments.....Have a Merkel also;combination 16/7x57,one of my favorites.
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Friend took his first Muledeer on opening day, after several times trying for the last 10 years; nice 4x4 ;D
I took this one on day three with the R93 in 270 win and a Swaro 3-12......
Fun hunt with many bucks seen and pretty country;
Putting in for tags again next year for deer near here and for Elk north of this area up in the pines.....
Cheers
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I had a early 90's 700 that had an AD.
Had the gun on range and sent the round down field. Scared the crap out of me. Gun had no mods and was about a year old at the time;maybe 500 factory rounds through it.
I found the bolt to have metal chips in it after a disassembly; and I always blamed the factory grime in there as the culprit. After cleaning I could never get the gun to do it again after repeated attempts.
I later had Hart swap out the trigger and do some otherwork before eventually selling it. Hart could find nothing askew in the factory trigger or other parts.
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As long as the gun is unloaded and cased you are good to go.
You can read (h) here;
http://www.malegislature.gov/Laws/GeneralLaws/PartI/TitleXX/Chapter140/Section129c
All jusidictions make exceptions for travellers and there are very few exceptions.Assult rifles and 50BMG rounds in CA for instance.NYC stipulates 24 hrs and a locked case for long guns.
But most just require the gun be unloaded,not visible(cased),and ammunition kept seperate.
Hand guns get a bit more involved.....
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Sounds fair....Similar experiences here.
My take on the whole deal is that AR's are a laymans choice to give a field way to judge animals on the hoof. More than likely not the best one, just a stab at something.
Check out the numbers of twins that older does give compared to young deer.....(blue box)
http://www.dec.ny.gov/docs/wildlife_pdf/deerrepro09.pdf
AR's have been mixed results depending where and the management style employed. Areas of Texas also employ spread and seem to do better( Just try to sell that one here.LOL)
I live close enough to the current AR program to hunt the boundry area in the next unit. At this point I have to say I have seen a lot more mature deer carrying larger head gear. Is it AR, better hunting skills(thats what I like to think :
), decrease in participation? I don't know. Is it sustainable? Most studies point to eventual high grading issues.I do know that I have been on intensely managed properties for other game. Wow...good management is unreal in its effects for herd health.Does it apply to the general deer hunter from NY? With patchwork public and private lands and a different regional hunting culture?Guess thats what the debate is about.....and so it goes.
Cheers
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No, unlike some, not trying to portray myself as an expert......
My interest in the reproduction of cervids stems from an interest back a few years when I was learning how to AI cows. I was taking a set of courses sponsored by Cornell for a few weeks for certification from one of the Associations.
At the same time a friend and I had this plan to raise commercial Reindeer for meat in the Southern Catskills,marketing in NYC. :
So while there I talked to everyone I could find about reproduction of cervids in general. Met quite a few very nice folks who were more than willing to let me borrow and use their material to read up.(we applied for a grant and lost out, so the project never went anywhere)But a PhD candidate gave me a box of materials I still have somewhere and there was a study in there from the mid-west(Ohio?) that had a large sample size; it was done on a commercial farm( had something to do with Texas A&M,IIRC). I'd have to dig it out. I do recognize that Cheatum study name; isn't that from the late 40's? I know some are in the 30's that are still used.
And that was my point; the numbers have been crunched for quite a while; and most are accepted as statistically accurate(from anyone I have met anyway).
So you bought a scale for use....but don't believe in the science behind it?
Do you have some better #'s to share ? Are you doing research ?
Thoughts?
I just find it interesting you can quote specific studies, can you offer any evidence they are all controverted? I was under the impression most are fairly good(?)
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For 6.95 and shipping you can have a brand new scale too!
http://www.forestry-suppliers.com/product_pages/View_Catalog_Page.asp?mi=6386
Puts my old metal keepsake one to shame.
:D
Sitka Hunting jacket
in General Hunting
Posted
Their stuff is top notch. I have tried some, but do not own any.
That said when is the last time anyone paid suggested price on any outdoor related item?
The difference is the gortex shell is 2.5 layer and it has 700 fil down; Down is rated by fill power,700 is typical for decent cold weather gear. But down is useless when it gets wet; therefore the 2.5 layer Goretex for the exterior. It's waterproof to protect the down fil, but being the newer 2.5, breathes better than the original(they need to compete with the newer eVent fabrics). Notice the weight is only 2.5 lbs., thats much lighter compared to comparable clothing with synthetic fills.
My suggestion is to layer with better quality layers and spend the money on a system that flexible from cool to cold. The outer layer can be a camo and quiet, while the under layers act to regulate moisture and temperature. Moisture is often neglected and is very important to regulate......cotton kills. LOL
You may spend as much; but have an entire line of clothing to cover more situations.
Go on some backpacking/backpacking hunting forums to see what most folks are using and you will find good value for weight. Light weights are more comfortable and allow more freedom of movement; they also tend to be more expensive often due to the proprietary materials they employ.