Boondock

Well good luck in your search for a .444. Remington is rumored to be reintroducing them. The Marlins that are out there demand premium prices usually. The .444 was introduced in 1965 and until 1998 was 1-38 twist micro-groove rifling. Then from 1998 on was made with 1-20 twist Ballard style rifling. Seems like most cast bullet shooters prefer the Ballard rifling to stabilize longer/ heavier cast bullets. Just something to consider in your search for a rifle. I don’t know if I’m allowed to point you toward another forum, but Marlin Owners . Com has lots of good reading on the subject. As well as friendly knowledgeable folks that could answer any questions.

Apparently there are wide ranging differences in people’s taste buds. In my opinion, puff balls are some of the best eating wild mushrooms we have. They have a delicate flavor. Easily overpowered by spices. Most fans agree they should be cooked slowly on low heat in butter. Some folks dip them in egg, roll in breadcrumbs and then sauté in butter or deep fry. We usually slice them about 1/4 in thick. Forty years ago my wife wouldn’t touch them, said if we ate them we would all die. Now I have to guard my plate so she won’t steal mine when I’m not looking. They are so easy to identify that any novice shroomer can feel safe giving them a try. Apparently some people do suffer indigestion after eating, so first timers should sample a small amount at first. That is sound advice for any mushroom. Wonder bread isn’t high on my list of foods, but puff balls rank right up near the top.

Wishing you both the best. Prayers sent.

My deer rifle is a 2004 production Marlin 45/70 CB model with 26 in tapered octagon barrel. Really love it, no complaints. I have not shot cast bullets but it’s in my future plans. I have handled Remington produced Marlins and haven’t been impressed. Lots of horror stories on the web but they say they are improving. Personally I’d look for an older Marlin or go with Henry if you like the looks and feel of them. They seem quite heavy to me. Unless I’m really missing something, and that’s entirely possible The Henry’s are side ejection allowing for a top mount scope just like a Marlin Ive always been a Marlin guy so I’m likely biased in that direction, but the Henry’s are building a good reputation. Trying to talk my son-in-law into buying one in 45/70 so I can try it out. They say the triggers are good and accuracy acceptable . The Marlin trigger can be smoothed up or replaced with a Happy Trigger To me that’s an advantage if you don’t get a good one. All three of my Marlins weren’t bad, but with a little work they are all now 3-4 lbs and clean. What a difference that makes.

I agree pushing edge first is the better way. Over the years I’ve found most people new to sharpening have more success getting a sharp tip with the circular motion. It seems to be more forgiving if not held at the exact same angle. At least that’s been my experience.

Thanks for the welcome Stay at Home Nomad. Like many things , there are many different methods to get knives sharp. The power sharpeners work but one has to be very careful of generating too much heat and changing the temper. One quick pass, about 7/8 of the way, then pull away and avoid the tip. Then feel blade with your hand. If hot , quench it under water to cool. Then repeat alternating sides. The very tip is better touched up by hand on a flat stone. Elevate the handle , so your angle is more than 20 degrees, more like 30. Then with light pressure do circles, a few on one side, then the other. Takes practice but it’s something most anyone can learn. Old school knives are thin. For a reason. They cut/slice well and are easy to sharpen. Apparently these days with all of us chopping down trees, building shelters and batoning firewood with our hunting knives they need to be a quarter inch thick. This makes it necessary to have them profiled and have secondary bevels so the actual cutting edge can be thinner. Things were easier back when knives were just for cutting.

The Spyderco Sharpmaker will work great for most all knives. If you have exotic super steels or just want fast reprofiling the diamond rods are handy to have. I have a set of DMT folding flat diamond hones. I lay the course hone against the Sharpmaker stone and get the same angle for reprofiling. Once a blade is ground to that bevel they are easy to touch up on the regular Sharpmaker rods. In the real world, the red Spyderco rod is all you need for any deer butchering or skinning. It leaves a toothy edge that will cut fine and hold up a little longer than the finer edge left by the white rods When the ceramic rods get “loaded “ with fine metal particles they stop cutting Wet them and rub with Comet or Ajax to clean as good as new

Hello to everyone, I’m a long time reader. Don’t plan on doing a lot of posting but glad to help out and share when I can. All things mentioned will work to sharpen knives. Your ability to maintain the same angle will determine if you can use stones or sandpaper “free hand” or if you need a guided system of some sort. For those who use crock sticks and ceramics like the Spyderco Sharpmaker, you can clean them with Ajax,Comet or Barkeepers Friend. Just carefully wash them in the sink under running water. Wet them and rub with Comet to get the fine metal particles that are clogging them up off. They will work like new again