nybuckboy
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Posts posted by nybuckboy
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I'm pretty sure the difference is that Code Red is urine collected from several deer and Code Blue is just from one deer. Code Blue says "from one deer to the bottle" or something like that. Code Red is collected from the drainage of Does in the pen.
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I know of 3 bears all seen with 3 miles of the intersection of Rt 12 and Rt 20. Wondered if anyone else is seeing any.
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Just wondering as the past few years more bear are being seen in lower Oneida County as well as North Eastern Madison County area.
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Just curious... we all have what we feel are good stand sites or we would not have bothered to set them up. There are certain criteria by which stands are judged.
Some stands are based on a good scouting and/or gut feelings... some stands because they have been proven winners over a few seasons.
So the question is:
When do you like to hunt your best stands?
and why?
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just realized I totally messed up that post when I edited it. I meant to say "they" say adding some PREORBITAL SCENT really helps bring them into the licking branch. anyone know where to get some? Do they sell it at Dicks, gander, wallyworld?
Here is your link... http://smokeysdeerlure.com/
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I think the worst is when you think it's a fart and it becomes a "Shart"... part fart and part shit... a "shart".
Happened to me coming out of the woods spring turkey with my sone about 930am and thought I had to just fart but no soiled myself with a shart.
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Cup of coffee... sit on the throne... crap... shower and head for the woods. I don't go until I go, period.
I was at a hunting camp and an older guy, older than me had a saying. He would say " I don't go until the boss says so" referring to his shitter.
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I have a few of those ladder stands, so I know how they look in the woods. The deer get used to them being there as long as you leave them there. They have no idea of what they are.
Agree... I leave mine up all year round. I do think the camo breakup is probably more beneficial the first year and it also may hide better from other hunters unless they walk right by them.
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Anyone ever try any Fitzgerald Brothers Deer Dander? Your thoughts?
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Deer see shades of colors, like dogs, horses, etc., therefore breaking up those 2 heavy dark vertical lines and numerous short horizontal lines with varying shades has got to be less conspicuative. After all, why do we wear color camo clothes when we hunt?
If I had taken pics of the ladder stand before I sprayed you could really have seen how they stood out against the tree.
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Here are some pics of how I camo my ladder stands. I use a gray and brown spray primer (cheap kind) cause it is flat not glossy. First I lightly spray over the ridiculous black the stand comes in with the gray primer and then I just over spray the brown. Notice in the one pic in the shade how well it blends in. I also whack down some saplings about 3/4 to 1 inch thick at the bottom and zip tie to the side of the stands to break it up even more.
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One pin - 25 yds. For a distance of up to 35 yds I aim at top of back above shoulder at the withers and it will drop in to the kill zone. At 30 yds a bit lower. I don't shoot farther.
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NNNNNNNNNiiiiiiiiice
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I tend to agree with Sweet Old Bill on this one. Make sure you know your draw length and pondage you intnd to draw.
Look into Archery Talk, Ebay, etc. and buy a name brand older model like Mathews, Hoyt, Bowtech, etc.
My personal bow is 4 yo Mathews Drenalin. Its light, has a real smooth draw cycle and I bet if you look you can still get one for less than $500 fully equipped. I'm sure there are others that would fit this bill. Do some research on some older bows in the 4 yo range... read reviews and then make your play or bid on a good used bow. You might be surprised.
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Another thing to consider and what I do... about 6 weeks before season opens, I use my range finder and I walk around my stand marking trees with orange marker tape that are 25 yds from the tree, that my stand is in. That way once the big boy is in your zone you already know your shot distance.
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If you could only use 1 scent when you go into the woods...
What would it be?
What company/manufacturer?
When would you use it?
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Ya don't need the angle compensator... You just take a reading of trees around your stand at the same height as you are at. Check out ebay and look at the Nikon Pro Staff 440 in green.
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My son and I both have the QAD Ultra... work real well
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It really doesn't matter how straight up the ladder is it's if the seat is level or tipped back slightly. When the tip forward, even a bit they seem worse.
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NY Hunter
Maybe first try setting up just 2 sections against back off the field edge about 10ft where you know deer travel the edge. That way you are only about 11 ft. Once you're comfortable then add the 2nd section and see how it is.
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I am not crazy about hieghts,in fact I am a baby.But I well try to use a ladder this year.
I think most hunters aren't crazy about heights but try setting one up where it's on the level in a funnel area first or a field edge. It does get scary if you are set up looking down a slope. Wear a harness and you know you will be safe. You can over come this. I wouldn't get in a hang on until I went to Illinois on a hunt and thats all they used. I got over it pretty well but I'll still take a ladder stand as my first choice.
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I hunt on about 350 acres but can only access it from the south and east for the most part. Mostly open area with about 40% woods and scrub brush. I have 11 ladder stands and 3 hang-ons. I plan to set up 1 more ladder and 1 more hang-on. I do prefer the ladder stands (all 15ft). I rachet them on and chain and padlock them. I leave them up all year round.
I also have started to spray paint brown and gray primer on them to try to break the ladder section up from the woods. I let them dry and sit out in the air for weeks before set-up. I also zip tie some branches on them to break up the vertical sections. If you take the extra time to disguise them and use some camo tape to silence them I like them the best.
I do believe ladder stands give the most support and comfort and I also like to sit when shooting cause of balance issues.
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What type of stands to you generally use and why?
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I have gained so much valuable information from many forums on so many topics, that I thought I would share some info that has helped me. I would like to offer some advice that has worked well for me in building good arrows for hunting. So if you getting arrows for the first time or you are looking into buying new arrows, either way, I think this will very helpful to you.
I started with Beman MFX 400 shafts cut to 28 inches. I determined my size by using the Beman/Easton guide and my draw length. I shoot a Mathews Drenalin at 60lbs. Ideally, for hunting purposes you want an arrow that weighs well over 400 grains with a FOC of 12-14%.
The first thing I do is install the NAP Quikfletch QuickSpin fletchings on the bare shafts as close to nock end of the arrow shafts as possible. I am in love with these. They are easy to use and have helped my groupings become tighter and they are easy to replace should you destroy a fletching. They weigh about 30 grains. Then insert the nock.
The next thing I do is determine my FOC (front of center). I am looking for about 12-14% FOC. You will need break off weight inserts which I order thru 3 Rivers Archery (see below for link). They come as 75 grain weight which can be broke off to 50 or even 25 grain inserts. I used 75 grains.Insert the FT in to the shaft loosely and by using just a bit of scotch tape, enough to hold on the 75 grain insert at the end of the shaft as well insert the 100 grain field tip. (obviously insert a 125 grain FT if you are going to use a 125 grain BH). This will get you close as the tape weighs little.
Using the FOC calculator determine the FOC using the 75 grain weight. If the FOC comes up over 15% then break off 25 grains from the insert and calculate again. You are looking for 12-14% FOC. To figure FOC go to:
http://archeryreport.com/2010/09/arrow-foc-basics-calculate/
[/color]To order the break off weight inserts you can go to:
[/color]http://www.3riversarchery.com/Easton+Brass+HIT++Break-Off+Insert_i6757-1_baseitem.html
[/color]
[/color]The reason you want a 12-14% FOC is the arrow will fly better and have more impact or kinetic energy. Yes you do lose a little speed but the arrow will fly better in adverse conditions as well as have more impact (kinetic energy) to penetrate thru bone. Once you have determined the proper weight to use to obtain the desired FOC then glue in one insert. Let the glue dry and then screw in the FT. Go shoot the arrow and see how it flys.
You may wish to paper tune but I assure you for the most part, this will work out well with all your arrows.
When I was done, I weighed my arrows on digital scale and my total arrow eight is 473 grains with a 13% FOC. I set my sons arrows up the same way. He shoots a Diamond Stud at 52 lbs with 450 grain arrow with a 14% FOC. At a 3D shoot we were shooting with a friend who shoots a Darton set up at 62 lbs and my son’s arrows were penetrating much deeper then the friends in to the target and mine penetrated even deeper.
Once you set up your arrows like this I bet you never buy arrows another way. Good luck and I hope this helps.
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First Deer Gun
in Rifle and Gun Hunting
Posted
I tend to agree that 9 yo is a bit young for deer but you as the father makes that decision. Regarding the best gun... in my mind the best is a .243. I purchased a Ruger 243 for my 14 yo son and he shot it through the lower neck just above the shoulder. It was his first buck opening morning at 136 yds and dropped on the spot.
The 243 w/ 100 gr is a nasty little gun. I shot a doe at 475-480 yds right through the lungs and it ran about 25 yds. I put the rifle in a tree crotch and held about 2 ft above the shoulder. The gun was sighted for 2" high at 100. I measured it twice using google earth. I was surprised as sh)t. Like I said it is a nasty little gun cause it's so flat and fast.