nybuckboy

G5 Montec

I do not know the species. I have not actually measured the sizes yet. Initial lay and design. I also have other species I could use locust trees as I have some of them too.

I'm planning on building a log bridge across my creek. I've selected the shortest span and it's about 18" right now and could get another ft higher certain times of the year. My plans are to fell four pine trees each about 20 ft long. Place 2 side by side and seperate them enough to be able place boards across all three to support a Kawasaki Mule. After the boards are place across the 4 logs I plan to then run boards length wise for a path for each wheel span. Thoughts and other design ideas?

Yes and how bout the chinese Rages people here say they have used and they work well

Just pole vault!

Not sure I agree with this statement nor do I necessarily agree with mine above. If you are looking for a good draw weight and your sole purpose is for hunting then keeping your movement down to a minimum would make sense with I had heard. I see many people at shoots raising their bow up and pulling down so they can draw back more pounds. I can tell they are drawing more than they should. In a hunting situation being able to draw back with as little motion as possible can be the difference of being busted or not. Also, I suspect that the reason for sitting on the ground and pulling your bow back is because after hours in a stand and being cold it makes sense to not have to pull more than you are comfortable with. Just for the hell of it I'm gonna try sitting and see just how well I can pull my bow back.

I don't know how true this statement is but once heard this: The determine your proper draw weight, sit on the ground with your legs out in front of you in a V. Draw your bow back while looking at your target and settle the pin on the bullseye without lifting the bow up toward the sky. Increase or decrease the poundage until it's the desired draw weight.

I shoota 60# bow. I'm shooting weekly in a league and turned my bow down to 54# and about 2 weeks, after 9 weeks of shooting, turned back up to 56#. I am drawing back 60 times in less athn 2 hours and if I do a makeup shoot it's not much over and hour. I will turn it back up to 60 in September as the season gets closer.

A patient of mine has been here twice with his son. Self guided but assisted. Assisted meaning they will drive you all over the 6500 acres and show you where they typically move and also will bring a loader to your elk and bring it back to the cabins or tent site for you. Reasonable. He raves about how they have been treated. The ranch is near Craig CO, near the northern border. The women who owns it has been in the family for like 100 years, Good luck. http://www.ylazysranch.com/home

Yeah I never had a chance to use them and after my post from 2014 I came across them again today and thought I'd throw this out to see if any has used them since.

Anyone ever use these? They look like they could really punch a large hole through a deer. Toxic broad heads.

I like to wait til late season gun to take my doe(s). I'm of the belief that that resident doe I kill early may be the doe that brings that mature buck by me in early Nov bow season. I know it all comes down to how much time and land access each hunter has as to how you decide take a deer but that is how I think any way.

Pinch points for sure.

22 but wait til he's really close and shoot between the eyes

Was shooting a 475 gr arrow w my Mathews Drenalin 60#. Now shooting 403 gr with Mathews Halon 60#. Hunting and target shooting.