Spraying questions

[stubborn1VT]

Background:  So last year I tilled up a small (1/4-1/3 acre) clover plot that had run its course and been over-run with grass.  I tilled it, limed it, fertilized it, and planted it to brassicas in one afternoon.  The brassicas grew, but not well, thanks to the drought-like conditions.  The deer got into them early and chewed them to the ground by bow season.  After that, the orchard grass had no competition and went wild.  This spring it has completely filled the plot. I want to plant a clover/chicory mix for the does and fawns.

The questions: Is it possible to tame the orchard grass without spraying?  I'd rather not have to plant a nurse crop, but if I did, what would deer find attractive?  We planted oats as a nurse crop for years, and our deer could care less about them.  If I did spray it, what concentration do you recommend?  I'm running a bit behind, but as wet as it has been I don't feel like I could have gotten much done.  I have my own ideas, but no experience with spraying glyph.  The plot is over and hour from my place, so I don't think I will be able to get over to till it multiple times.  Any advice is welcome.  Thanks in advance.

Edited May 27, 2017 by stubborn1VT

[LET EM GROW]

IMO they could care less for small grains this time of year. Depending on surrounding habitat.. the small grain can act as cover for fawns and poults. There's alot of forage to chose from now with green up and ag fields being planted. I just started using gly this year. I used to spray with concentrate round up. I'd just spray it let it dry up then seed it and roll it.

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[stubborn1VT]

I agree on the small grains.  Spraying and seeding would be great!  Since it has been tilled in the past, it would probably work.  Would a poly lawn roller be enough to get seed to soil contact?  I don't have a cultipacker.  I wish.  What concentration of glyph would you recommend?  Not having to till it again would save me alot of hassle.  Thanks for the advice.

[LET EM GROW]

I picked up 41% and mixed a 2% ratio. Not sure what's right and wrong. Some of the weeds did not die after, the mustard from last year's brassicas didn't phase them at all. . I will spray aging once my soybeans are up and going. And mix a bit heavier probably.

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[sailinghudson25]

Look up Clethodim

It's safe for broadleaf, but kills grasses.  Check if it does.orchard grass. 

What's your spraying equipment.  Is your water well watet, or the creek.

2% Glyphosate is common. Fot tougher weeds or perennial plants to die, some folks add another herbicide like 2,4 D.

If you got a good source.  Get ammonium sulfate.  17lbs of chemical per 100 gal of solution.  It helps Glyphosate work on tougher weeds and with high mineral content water.  Certain weeds use calcium receptors to block out harmful substances.    The ammonium sulfate takes care if that.  Minerals in water make some of the Glyphosate inactive.  The ammonium binds firsy, but is still active. 

I like to rotate.  Too much legumes for too long makes the nitrogen high.  Also, clover is not imperial to disease or pests.

 

Choke out the weeds in oats or buckwheat.  Then spray in august again and do a wheat with peas turnips or another kind of clover.  Red if you did white or vice versa.

[stubborn1VT]

Was clover for 3 years, then brassicas for 2, now back to clover/chicory.  I plan on using glyphosate on the orchard grass, as well as the old sod I plan on tilling up.  I'd like to use as few chemicals as possible.  I won't plant oats or buckwheat, but they would help smother the weeds. I don't want to plant anything that I know the deer won't eat.  

I talked to a farmer that was using soybeans as a nurse crop for his alfalfa/clover/fescue.  He didn't end up with enough triticale seed, so he was replacing it with beans.  Kind of a neat idea.  He will mow and chop the whole shooting match in 65 days or so, depending on weather.  

We don't see disease or pests in clover here, just winterkill.  Clover spreads all over the place on its own.