Let's See Your Homemade Tools

[wildcat junkie]

I'm Looking for pictures and descriptions of any homemade reloading or gunsmithing related tools you may have conjured up.

Stuck case puller;

While the above method will certainly work, the drawback with it is that it will disturb the the depth setting of the sizing die in the press. If you are like me, you adjust the die depth so that only the neck is sized and and the shoulder is just bumped by the die.

I have made a stuck case puller with very little cash outlay that only requires some tools that the average DIYer should have on hand.

 

 

Material;

• 1 ea 1/8" X 1/4" bell reducer
• 1 ea. 1/8" MIP nipple of any length  (you will only use a short potion of one threaded end)
• 1  ea 1/4" X 20 socket head cap screw with at least 1 1/2" of thread (you may need to use a die to cut additional threads)
• 1 ea 1/4" flat washer
• 1 ea 1/4' X 20 nut

Tools;

• 1/4"X 20 tap
• #7 drill bit (a 3/16" but will probably work since we are working with a soft metal)
• Optional - 1/4" X 20 die in case more threads need to be cut on the bolt
• 3/16" Allan Wrench
• 7/16" open end wrench (if you're using a hex head machine screw you will need an additional 7/16" wrench)
• Hack saw
• Mill file

 

Making the tool;

1. screw the 1/8" pipe nipple snuggly into the small end of the bell reducer, (I used some loctite to lock the pieces together, but this is optional)
2. Cut the nipple off nearly flush and carefully file the surface flat and square, deburr the I D
3. Screw the nut all the way onto whatever threads are on the screw, place a washer on the bolt and insert it into the modified bell reducer.

You should have at least 1/4" of thread extending beyond the large end if the bell reducer. If not, you will need to cut additional threads onto the shank of the screw.

 

Prepping the stuck case and removing the stuck case;

Note that the rim has been pulled off of this case by the shellholder when trying to extract it from the die in the press.

1. Back off the lock nut on the decapping pin/expander button adjustment on the die and remove the decapping pin/expander button.
2.  DO NOT ALLOW THE BIT TO ENTER THE CASE ANY MORE THAN NECESSARY TO DRILL OUT THE PRIMER POCKET. Be careful to drill the hole as square to the C/L of the case as possible. You can use the bell reducer as a somewhat accurate gauge for this, keeping in mind that the hole in the bell reducer will be slightly oversize for the bit. Keep it centered.
3. Again using the bell reduce as a guide, tap the hole you just drilled in the primer pocket with 1/4" X 20 threads.
4. Placing the bell reducer over the base of the die, screw the threads  into the tapped case making sure you get at least 3/8" of thread engagement. 
5. With the die secured in a padded vice, hold the head of the screw with the appropriate tool and take you 7/16" wrench and screw the nut down against the shoulder of the bell reducer until  the stuck case comes free.

 

I leave the case screwed onto the threads to keep the tool as a one piece unit when stored.

 

Cartridge optimal OAL Gauge;

 

Usually, the best inherent accuracy is achieved when the ogive of the bullet is within .010" to .015"  from contacting the lands of the rifling in the chamber throat.  Sometimes that is not possible due to a long throat such as in many older military rifles that may have been originally loaded with bullets that we don't want to employ.

This tool requires very little cash outlay and the components needed should be available at any well stocked hardware store.

First of all, you will need a pair of set screw applied collars with an I.D, that will slide over whatever you are using as a ramrod.

You can get them at Fastenal, but any old school neighborhood hardware store should have them.

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/3381469

 

Slide the stop collars over the ramrod all the way up to the handle.

 

Next, you will need a fired case for the rifle you are gauging as well as a spring that is just a bit shorter than the inside dept of the fired case. You will also need examples of any bullets you are planning on using. You want the spring short enough to allow the bullet to enter the case neck, but long enough to put significant pressure on the base of the bullet when the cartridge is chambered. The spring needs to be rather stiff.

 

You will need something with a flat end and a solid center screwed into the end of your ramrod. An 8x32 screw with the end filed flat will work with most ramrods. I had one of those, but misplaced it. I am using an old base from a now defunct bore brush.

 

Next, with the bolt closed and the striker cocked, push the ramrod all the way in until it  contacts the bolt face. Push both stop collars against the muzzle while making sure the ramrod is still in contact with the bolt face.Tighten the set screw on the stop collar closest to the handle the ramrod.

 

Now, open the bolt and insert the case/spring/bullet into the chamber and close the bolt. You should be able to feel the spring tension as you push the ramrod against the chambered gauge assembly. With the ramrod just contacting the nose of the bullet, slide the stop collar closest to the muzzle against the muzzle and tighten the set screw. You must work by feel here, hence the need for a stiff spring to keep the bullet jammed against the lands of the rifling as you set your gauge.

 

Now all you need to do is measure the gap between the stop collars.

These measurements are with 2 different bullets.

With the Speer 2042 170 gr Hotcor bullet,that gap measures 3.200"

 

However, with the 160 gr  Hornady FTX 30396 bullet designed for the 308 Marlin Express that gap has increased to 3.285"

 

 

Normally on tries to achieve a minimal gap of .010" ro .015", but in this case, bullet shank seating depth, and more importantly, the maximum COAL that will function through the magazine limits that length to 3.150". That being the case, the "jump to the lands" with the 170 gr Speer Hotcor bullet will be .050" while the longer, more "pointy" Hornady bullet will have a much longer jump to the lands of .135" I would expect the Speer bullet to have more inherent accuracy.

 

I plan to christen my MY NEW SHOOTING BENCH while testing these bullets for accuracy in my Dad's 30/40 Krag.

Edited April 10, 2020 by wildcat junkie