wildcat junkie

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


wildcat junkie last won the day on September 7 2019

wildcat junkie had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

1603 Excellent

About wildcat junkie

  • Rank
    Resident Iconoclast
  • Birthday 10/19/1950

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    The frozen tundra of northern NY state. Almost Canada eh?

Extra Info

  • Hunting Location
    On my farm 6-A, 6-C, 8-R
  • Hunting Gun
    Custom Oberndorf Mauser 8X57 IS 1898 Springfield 30/40 Krag Custom K98 Mauser 8mm-06 Ackley Improved
  • Bow
    J. D. Berry Yahweh long bow, Great Plains recurve bow,

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I have a big backyard. There are stakes marking 25 yds, 50 yds, 100 yds and 200 yds. I have a movable target stand. The cardboard is removable, ni fasteners are used to secure it.
  2. That is another thing I have know since the begining.
  3. I once jarred the reticle loose on a Leupold 1-4 scope shooting slugs through a .665 turkey choke!
  4. Actually, those are the "original" (mass produced) Razorheads. The screw in inserts are removable and they can then be used as a direct gue on. IMO they are the best cut on contact head ever devised. This is my personal stash. I refurbish the ones that are discolored from heat by bead blasting them and using VHT "cast iron" engine paint. As far as the bleeder blades? Yes Fred made a broadhead W/O the insert and later developed one that use Schick razor blades It was the addition of the insert blade that brought the trademark name "Razorhead". The 1st" Bear Razorheads were known as "bubble head" as the ferrule was turned. It was found that this impeded penetration so the flattened ferrule was introduced.
  5. I bought a 5mm RF Magnum when they 1st came out. I think it was the summer '73. It was very accurate despite the 5#+ factory trigger. Back around 2000, I came across the Schroeder CF conversion. I bought the kit which consisted of a bolt head with a true CF firing pin located down the center of the bolt, a set o0f RCBS Dies and 100 cases formed from 22 Hornet brass. 100 loads ro a pound of powder, bullets can be had for less than $13 per 100 if you watch and then the cost of small rifle primers. Less than $20 to reload 100 rds. Loaded with a stout charge of Alliant 2400 (6.8gr) topped with a Hornady 33 gr V Max bullets it cranks out 2400 fps. Retains as much energy at 175 yds as the 17HMR has at the muzzle. (V Max is on the left) Shoots +or - 1 1/2" out to 200 yds when zeroed at 175 yds. 100 yd group; 200 yd group; Makes a satisfying "smack" when that V Max encounters a Hoary Marott ut to 200 yds or so. I did a stone job on the engagement surfaces and replaced the sear spring with a hardware store item. I got it down to a crisp clean break at 2 1/2#. https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=467194
  6. This might be a bit off topic but the picture below was taken on the last day of 1966, December 31, 1966 and I too was 16 years old. My hunting buddy Dave Keamerer is on the right, I'm on the left. The shotgun in the center is one of the original H&R M48 "Topper" shotguns, probably from the late '40s/early '50s.. It had a design flaw in that the notched pin that the fore-end snapped onto was just a round pin brazed into a shallow recess in the bottom of the barrel, no support was provided as the later designs had. The pin had become bent and partially dislodged. That is why the stranded nylon tape is wrapped around the fore-end. There was no structural support of the action except when it was opened and allowed to drop down as the ejector was activated. It was in all other ways superior as it had a coil mainspring, American Black Walnut stock and all machined parts. Later models were "cheapened up" and no longer had the same features. We took that gun and shared it because where we were hunting was in the South suburbs of Chicago. There were large swaths of prairie left undeveloped between blocks of subdivision. We were not sure if we were violating any local ordinances or not, so we did not want to risk having our better shotguns confiscated. Plus, we could run faster if we needed to make a hasty exit. We had hunted the area before trying to jump shoot the Cottontails with little success. The Cottontails would sneak out if the thick Pussywillow thicket ahead of us. We seldom even caught a glimpse. That day we employed a post and drive technique and we really slayed the bunnies. They made easy targets as they sneaked out at a slow run ahead of the person acting as the dog. It only took a bit over an hour for us to kill our combined limit of 10 rabbits. Most of them were head shot. The 16ga H&R had a very right choke as was usual in guns of the era that it was built. EDIT: I just did a bit of research and the "I" prefix of the serial number indicates that the gun was manufactured in 1948
  7. Model 1898 Springfield 30/40 Krag built in 1899, bought by my father in 1958 for $12. Probably "sporterized" sometime in the late 1920s early 1930s. I restored it over about 2 years from 2015 to 2017. I used a 1970s style Bishop semi inletted stock complete with Monte Carlo cheek piece, grip cap and while outline spacers. There was enough wood to get the original contour of the cut down military stock. The only "improvement" over the way it was when Dad bought it was the addition of a Pacific K-2 receiver sight that uses the magazine cutoff hole for a no alteration installation. I got lucky and found one on Ebay. It has a slow rust blue finish on the metal and Minwax Antique Oil Finish on the wood. I killed a decent buck with it in 2015 at 120 paces taking him straight in through the windpipe/spine. The slow rust blue process. I finished it in October of 2017.
  8. Oberdorf "Classic" 8 x 57IS VZ500 intermediate length LR 98 action circa 1960 (commercial version of M48 Yugo) with trigger bow custom contoured.K98 military Barrel custom contoured and crowned, Timney Sportsman trigger, 3-position M70 style safety, slow rust blue metal finish with niter color accents. Oberndorf classic stock with Niedner buttplate and grip cap. Minwax Antique Oil Finish 200 gr .323 Speer Hot Cor bullet at 2730 fps
  9. My "big hammer" 8mm-06 Ackley Improved. J.P Sauer & Sone K98 action circa 1943, M98/29 barrel cut and crowned to 26", custom contoured and rechambered to 8mm-06 A.I. 1904 Portuguese Vergueiro bottom metal with trigger bow custom contoured and locking screw holes welded up. Timney Sportsman trigger, 3-position M70 type safety. Slow rust blue finish on the metal. Quarter sawn black walnut stock with 1" Pachmayr Decelerator recoil pad and Minwax Antique Oil Finish. 200 gr .323 Speer Hot Cor bullet at 2900 fps. 8 X 57IS on the left, 8mm-06 A.I. on the right.
  10. After nearly 15 years of faithful companionship, I had to put my beloved Max down last August. He was just shy of being 16 years old. If a man has the opportunity to have one great dog on his life, he should count himself as very fortunate. Max was a one in a million dug. The following two images were taken in the winter of 2005/2006. Max was about 2 years old. The following was taken in 2009. I met this guy on huntingny forum. He brought his 14 year old son up from Loweville for his first bird hunt. They were missing birds at first. I explained to them that they had to shoot where the bird would be, not where it was when they shot. They soon got their act together and had a successful hunt. They paid to have 8 birds released. we had about 12 flushes and they got 7.
  11. I killed 5 out if one den over the course of a week or so last summer. CZ 452 American with a Weaver Classic 6 - 24 X 42 A.O.
  12. Since I want to be able to leave my target stand at the shooting bench and there is no shelter, I wanted to be able to R&R the cardboard without having to use any tools. The cardboard is secured with some stout spring clamps at the top. I am contemplating making some sort of hinged affair at the top to better distribute the clamping force across the cardboard. I used my table saw ro cut a rabbet groove at the bottom.. I got lucky and the gap is just right to securely grip the cardboard yet allow easy enough insertion