Here is my take on tuning a bow. Yes. You can set up a bow to shoot decent groups out to 40 yrds. by setting center shot and squaring everything up. Myself. I want to squeeze every little bit of performance I can out of my bow. Here is how I tune mine and every other person that brings their rig to me for a tune. I first inspect strings and cables to ensure they are in good shape.( I always use a good set of custom strings and not the factory strings myself). Then the bow goes on the draw board and I time/sync the cams and get the DL. correct. I don't worry about ATA and Brace. Those numbers aren't set in stone numbers. Next. I find the center shot and set the rest and go right into bare shaft paper tuning ( I don't even bother with a fletched shaft). I will do this out to 30yrds. I adjust my paper tear by yoke tuning (if bow has one. The reason I don't care for Elites). Once I get bare shaft shooting bullet holes out to 30 yrds. I go to broadheads. I've yet to have to make any adjustments with fixed or mechanicals with any bow that I've bare shaft tuned at 30 yrds. After all of the tuning is done. I will send some arrows thru the chronograph to see if it's making or close to ibo. More for fun than anything else (They are all fast!). Confidence in your set up goes a long way when you have that opportunity of a lifetime. I'm not trying to hit a pie plate at 40Yrds. I'm trying to split hairs at 40 yrds. I'm not claiming to be the best tuner in the world, but I'm pretty good at it and love doing it. If anyone needs help. Feel free to send me a p.m. and I'll do what I can to get you going in the right direction.
