Core

Wayne county Brought it in to another place when I got the peep back on, but now I need a bow press to add a twist to it, as it's very slightly rotated at extension--not enough to really impede my shots, but it is annoying.

Okay, time to ask this question again/thread bump, only because I've read a few other threads at hunting NY and there are still conflicting opinions from officers. A couple of people were kind enough to link to NY Dec's website where it specifically addressed the topic of temporary stands left on state land but the link is dead! So here is what we know for sure: 1) Stands that damage trees in any way are bad 2) Climbing stands or strap stands are fine Here is what we probably know, but I'd really love an official link somewhere if anybody has it: An approved stand can be left through the big game season. Write your name and address on it. ------------- I've been scouting a lot of stand land recently and have seen a number of stands, including a nice new ladder stand left in a highly accessible area. I guess a lot of people still leave them. I was thinking of going with the Dicks' $40 stand and carrying climbing sticks in and out. That way I'm only 12-15 lbs of gear at a time and nobody can steal my stand without their own sticks or ladder. I also suspect the majority of people will not try and steal a stand anyway. I walked under one today with a very visible trail camera and waved. I guess the owner feels comfortable there as well.

I'm not really sure the point given what most of us are hunting here. I'm strong enough to do 8-9 (more when I wasn't fatter, ugh) very good form pull ups but I'm still drawing only 52 just because why put my body through stress it doesn't need. Already have a permanent joint injury from another hobby and excited not to repeat my foibles

I know this is a thread bump, but I just want to echo everything in this thread, out of frustration. My peep came out last weekend as I was walking through some brush. I took it to the store two days back, the guy sold me a peep with a tube (seemed like a good idea, even though 95% of people online seem to have gotten away from these I find out later on). i finally got it nailed down tight today after 70 shots yesterday and 30 today. My last three arrows at 40 yards were an insane group! I was going to take a few more shots before going home (then hunting tomorrow) and the damn tube snapped. What a piece of junk. 100 shots and two days old and it snaps, and that threw the sight off massively (I'm now shooting 8" high at 20 yards). It wasn't even on tight; would only tense up the last 1-2" of draw. At least I didn't lose an eye over this silly contraption. And the thing is the hundreds of arrows I had before on a regular peep were fine and little rotation was ever noticed (or at least it was consistent). Oh, and there was I would say every few arrows a strange kind of added vibration noise. but not on all the arrows.

Yes! I spooked two pairs of deer in these exact conditions recently. A steep hill down to western marsh with a NE wind and at the top of the hill were oak trees. Well worn deer paths going from the marsh to the oak and on my way up got very close to deer on two occasions before spooking them. First I got within 40 yards of bedded and one still had no idea where I was as its friend hissed and freaked out. The second occasion I am not sure if they were walking or bedding because I saw movement and no more than 20 yards or so away there they both were frozen staring at me.

I did decide based on a preponderance of opinions contrary to lightning them up I decided to stay where I am after all. This was also cheaper when I bought new arrows because otherwise I would have had to ditch the old ones. Now keep your eye out for a future thread in which I open up the vanes can of worms

I'm sure this is old hat to many of you but I just came upon this guy on youtube: seems fairly legit. He says he'll go for an animal at half his practice range. He regularly practices at up to 160 yards, which means he'll confidently shoot at an animal to 80. He calls hitting the target a money shot and says he always will get a money shot within 80 yards. But he's out there every day. In some of his other vids his shooting technique is interesting; he seems to hold the riser fairly tightly, and he doesn't hold position after the shot; he's dropping the bow the split second he releases to see what went on with the arrow. But whatever he's doing it works for him. I'm pretty sure a lot of people complaining that others shouldn't shoot as far as they say they will don't appreciate the huge variance in archery skill. I see a lot of guys at the range with nice equipment who can't do much better than a pie plate at 20 yards--certainly no more than 30 yards--on their first volley of the day. IMO that first volley represents your effective range.

What percentage of deer that you get into shooting range of were bedded vs standing vs walking, when you snuck up on them?

I am new to hunting but have been out seven times this year primarily trying to still hunt. My first day I walked up on a deer that was feeding and never saw me. Got close enough for a good shot. I have spooked MANY deer with this method but have learned the following about it (also have read a lot): - large visibility areas are preferable to me. I feel this increaMses odds of seeing a deer before it sees me--but this is because I am not trying to get bedded deer (damn hard, though some do manage it)--I want them when feeding - damping sound is completely crucial. I have been out once after a rain and the leaves were all quiet; I was a ninja - wind is important--not just direction but the stronger the better; when wind is in the teens the entire forest is loud and this is what you want The last time I was out the leaves had really started to cover the ground a lot since the start of October and moving quietly through 2" thick cover of dry, curled leaves is brutal. Of course, I also probably move too quickly. Moving through marsh quietly is also very hard--suck suck of shoes. This Saturday morning I plan on trying a new area. It is going to rain on Friday, which will shut down the heavy leaf cover everywhere now. Also it is supposed to be very windy. The wind will help further by giving cover noise and if it is really strong should help cover scent as well. As such the deer will be mainly brought down to using vision, and although deer have better motion vision than us their detail at range is poor. I still hope again to come up on a deer feeding oblivious to me In any case, wet ground + high wind are perfect conditions for this stuff.

Physics tires the mind.

I will give the hair dryer thing a go. The whisker biscuit is a full one (goes all the way around) with black on the bottom, but the vanes only pass through brown stuff. An arrow flying out of the plane of its actual trajectory would potentially have lift (e.g. if you point an arrow up at a 45 degree angle but throw it horizontally so it's moving away from you but looking upward), because the air can push even against the cylindrical shaft a small amount, but since arrows don't move like this, and they are in line with their travel of movement, there won't be any lift on one. I suppose if you wanted to you could build an arrow with active vanes on the back and near the tip that steer it like a rocket, or a smart bomb. This would let you flatten its trajectory in theory completely flat, but at a given distance it would also arrive a bit slower. But imagine if you had only one pin set all through 70 yards and never had to adjust for distance. In the future all our arrows will have tiny cameras in the nose!

Reading some more stuff and also some details at http://archeryreport.com/I think you're right. I've learned that if I lighten my arrows I will very slightly lose kinetic energy, but more substantially will lose momentum. Found a cool chart here further down: http://archeryreport.com/2011/01/heavy-vs-light-arrows-speed-power/ He is also gaining 1 fps when he drops every 3.5 grains from his arrows. I'm at 340 now. I cannot go lower than about 275, which would buy me around 18 FPS assuming similar numbers. I don't know what my bow is actually shooting, but for argument's sake say it's at 250 fps. This means that a lighter arrow would put me at around 32 yards in the time it currently takes an arrow to hit 30 yards. That's fairly meaningless at 30 yards. It would make a difference at a longer range like 50, but there are penetration compromises. What I didn't expect when I started this thread was seeing data that if anything encourages me in general to go heavier for hunting, but that's what it seems to say!

Makes perfect sense if they are rocket-assisted arrows! That is a telling thread over at archerytalk. I don't think anybody at my poundage is shooting lighter than I am, and most are shooting a tiny bit heavier. One guy even shoots 700 gr arrows, though that is unusually heavy, and cannot be flying very quickly.

If those numbers are even in the ballpark, yeah I don't really care about another 10 fps. I'll never notice that. My new avatar picture is what my arrow does to a tree at 30 yards. Doesn't really seem that deep, but wood is hard

So you're even heavier than I am even accounting for draw weight. In the past 500 shots I've shot about 4-5 off target and really surprised each time to find them totally unbroken each time (I check very carefully afterward). Maybe that is due to some extra weight. Checked the manual, the 70# Stinger is capable of going down to 49 lbs with 12 turns, so I'm still within spec. Seeing little support here for lighter arrows. I think I'll stick with what I have but maybe go for some different vanes. The more I shoot the more I realize the variance in each shot cannot be blamed on the arrows, though, and I've made some really nice groups from time to time.

As far as drop is concerned if I use my 30 yard pin at 20 yards I end up shooting about 7" high. The distance from my 20 to 30 yard pin is about the same as my 30 to 40 yard. However, Since the targets are further away as you go down the pins, those represent a greater actual drop from 40 to 30 vs from 20 to 30, and if I had a 50 yard pin it would be even slightly further down than the 40. I think I lose in the ballpark of 18" between 40 yards and 50 but I haven't measured it.

shawnhu, that does sound quite significant. I did back it down from 70. It is capable of 70, but I had it set at 52 at the store (there is debate about maxing limbs vs backing down, I realize, and I'm losing a touch of draw length backed down so much). The benefit of being able to shoot dozens of arrows is that I can go to the range and shoot dozens of arrows A guy there last week who has obviously spent a lot of time shooting said he can only shoot 28 arrows in a session and then he gets too fatigued. I feel that being able to shoot so many in a session has helped me get better. I'm using 4" vanes. I think. They are pretty long--like i said I'm using entry level Easton carbon arrows. I have heard that some vanes are resistant to warping in a whisker biscuit and those sound compelling. I guess I'm happy to see the support for heavier arrows, because i'm sure the lighter ones will be more expensive. As far as spine the box of arrows matched the spine up to my draw weight. Understood! I know they need minimum turn. I hope the guy at the store followed the directions and I think he did. I will double check the specs to be sure it's not too far backed off.

I'm shooting a 70lb bow at 52 lbs (PSE stinger, claims 316 fps capable). I don't plan on going heavier because I can shoot dozens of arrows at this weight and it's got ample energy to take a deer (I am not hunting anything bigger). I bought $5 Easton arrows when I bought the bow. Although the whisker biscuit has warped their vanes to kingdom come I think I've become a pretty decent shot (at the range, that is) and making some nice groups. My only complaint with these is that with the 100 grain field points (broadheads also at 100) I'm shooting 340 grains, when ideally at my draw weight I'd be closer to 275 (I know I need to be 5+ grain per lb). Questions: 1) I want to go lighter so I can flatten trajectory due to less time in the air. Will the trajectory be meaningfully tightened up if I drop 20% off the arrow's weight? e.g. if I'm dropping 8" between 20 and 30 yard targets will it now drop 7, which isn't meaningful, or will it drop 4", which would be awesome? And if it is, is there a point at which trajectory becomes worse due to drag effects (same drag as at higher weight, but less mass to resist its effect, so arrow slows aggressively)? 2) I know I lose a tiny bit of penetration with these, but as 52 lbs is still ample for a deer, is there anything else I'm missing?

As far as hunter density, I've been out seven (!) times now at state land and seen very few vehicles. I drove around one of the state areas last night at 6:00 pm and saw no other cars whatsoever (I saw one a few hours earlier). I saw a few the first weekend of bow. I am simply assuming people didn't tag out on their bow, but who knows. The only gunfire I heard this past weekend was duck hunters. I am sure there have been a lot of bucks taken in the no-buck areas.

The girls like the one on Flip or Flop are there so when your wife wants to watch it you won't raise any complaints

Exactly. HGTV is like THE wife channel. There are two reasons people don't generally get rid of cable/sat: 1) Sports 2) HGTV because of their wives But now with sling you can't nix 2 and stream it legally

I think there is some truth to this. I have seen a lot of guys at the range recently with nice bows who are absolutely terrible archers!

I'm new to archery but can already group consistently on a pie plate at 50 yards, with very tight groups at 30. However, given that the only shot I've taken on a deer I cleanly missed at 24 yards, I would say my effective range is <= 23 yards.

I've been involved in several hobbies and hunting is my newest. It seems infected by the same thing most other hobbies are: an excessive amount of products and people who get away from the basics and instead try and buy success. Most (all?) of these products seem supported by a scant, at best, amount of scientific data. I think archery suffers the same thing.

I cut a few years ago. My entire family has far more crap than we can watch even still. Using an antenna for local HD (we only really watch news, as I cannot suffer ads without a DVR). To your question of Netflix & Hulu, you just need a streaming hardware player. There are many. The main popular ones are Apple TV, Roku, Amazon Fire. It's hard to go wrong with any of them. Then you pay the $8-9 month for Netflix or Hulu subscriptions and you can stream as much as you want. Time Warner doesn't currently have any bandwidth caps in your area. Netflix is good for slightly older series, like something that finished up a year ago or so (example many shows will have all their seasons on netflix except for the most recent one). They also do some of their own series (which are good and not low budget crap). Hulu is best for brand new, current running stuff. That's why I have both. If you--I mean your wife--MUST have HGTV, then you need to spend $20/month on Sling TV, which is just the same basic concept as Hulu and Netflix; it's another service you pay monthly for to watch certain things. I will never subscribe for cable tv or satellite again. They are dinosaurs and too expensive. As for recording OTA (over the air--what you get with your HD antenna), it's still a lot of hassle (or too expensive via Tivo) and I don't advise it. I'm a fairly huge techno geek so I'm very familiar with all this crap