HOUNDS77 Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOUNDS77 Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOUNDS77 Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 ANY bodygripping trap larger than 5 1/2" set on land with the use of bait must adhere to these regulations. See below which was taken from the DEC website.......Body-gripping traps set on land shall not be within 100 feet of a public trail except on Wildlife Management Areas.Body-gripping traps set on land without the use of bait must be no greater than 6 inches and may only be set such that no part of the body-gripping surface is more than 8 inches above the ground.Body-gripping traps 5 1/2 to 7 1/2 inches set with the use of bait, lure, or other attractants may only be used as follows: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOUNDS77 Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caveman Posted July 28, 2014 Author Share Posted July 28, 2014 Yeah, you had me curious so I went on my lunchbreak and found that. That first set is exactly what I had in mind. Thanks for all the information. The question I still need to ask the DEC is whether leaving things like buckets or tin foil on state lands temporarily as part of a set would be violating some type of littering laws, even if I was going to remove it when I take down the set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turkeyfeathers Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 This year i hear the prices are going to be down compared to the last couple. Are you going to selling fur on the whole or skinning and stretching at selling at NAFA auction? Like said above, skip beaver trapping . Way to much time and effort for what little return you'll get. Coon are a lot of work as well with all the fleshing the fat off and little $.( If putting up your own fur-fleshing board needed, fleshing tool, make a tail stripper) Muskrats have been fetching the most pound for pound so to speak at average of $12 per pelt put up. Fox were going pretty good too. Mink only fair pricing but darn fun to catch. Coyotes are a bust and those stink dogs stink but happy to eliminate some of them. Buddy puts up all his grinners and stinkers too. He caught it so he'll put it up, those few dollars add up in the end. Wire stretchers are ok but you can get dimensions and how to make your own wooden stretchers. Wood seems to give a nice finished product more so than wire. Thumb tacks for the split tail. Pan covers for coilsprings could be those mesh or i use wax paper that has been crinkled up. Prepare some wax dirt for when the temps drop. And more than you think you may need for the year. Cable stakes are nice because of the wait and how secure they stake ( eliminates some trap theft too) but I typically cross stake 2 pieces of 24" rebar. Make a dirtsifter Keep lures separate from traps. I agree on buying good traps. Even Dukes ( have reputation of being lousy) can be modified with night latching, swivels , jaw tips bent etc. 1.5's are great for coon . 1.75's modified for fox and yote but a little bigger preferred for yotes. Buddy caught a 48 pound big female this year. Make yourself a catchpole to release undesirables. You don't to be wrestling with a po'd smaller coon etc. The less lure the better IMO. As mentioned you can use sumac to dye or walnut husks. Do not wax conibears! Check out the hay set for when creeks freeze on fox., killer for me. Jump on trapperman.com for some great info. If setting muskrat traps in high visibility areas, take a fishing pole with you to hide what you're really doing. Sometimes I'll scout these areas in day and mark with plastic bottles found along the creek or ditch. Then set them in the dark, maybe check once during the night and pull them in the morning. You can hit rats fast and hard this way. If you're stuffing good holes and runs properly you can make the most out of it quickly. I use a piece of rope to set my 220's by running it thru the rings twice and pulling up and standing on the jaws. It's also a good way to remove the trap from your hand. Tough to do without the rope. Not that i have any experience with a 220 bracelet or anything : ) (back to my do not wax conibears comment) The only bad part about trapping is complete overlap with deer season. If searching for areas to trap. Start now. Knock on farmers doors and ask if they need some coyote removal. I'm sure they'll allow you to trap their ditches too . Good luck and hope some of this helps. Don't forget to order your copper trap tags now. Use your license # instead of your addy IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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