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Trials and tribulations of broadhead sighting.....

zeus1gdsm

By zeus1gdsm,
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zeus1gdsm Newbie

zeus1gdsm

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So I've had my fields dialed in for a while now... Got my pins set to 40 yards and confident in the grouping....

Switch to broadhead and I'm consistently 6-8 inches right of the fields points.

Did some Googling and saw a slight rest adjustment to the left might bring them in line.

Well a bunch of micro moves later. And I was way off.. And arrow flight was negatively affected.

Brought it back to what I thought was it's original position and suddenly my broads and fields are hiting within 1 inch. So man did that save myself some grief.

I noticed that 2 of my set group differently. One set is about a 1/2 inch longer than my broadhead arrows so I'm guessing that is part of why I'm getting 2 different groups with each set of arrows.

So I'm putting broadhead on all my hunting arrows. And only shooting the one set.

I'll have to order new BHs to replace these ones that I'm using. But it will be nice to get dialed with just broadheads.

Also noticed one of the broads flies high and right and wacky. I'm guessing bad spine or shift. So I set it aside and marked it.

I'll update tomorrow after switching to all BHs.

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Buckmaster7600 Mentor

Buckmaster7600

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A perfectly tuned bow will shoot any broadhead that isn't defected. Before spending more money on broad heads to be shot into targets I would paper tune the bow until u get a perfect circle. It will take a ton of time and you will get very frustrated but stick with it. You want to get the hole to look like this with a bare shaft. I have shot 1 broadhead at a target since last season and that was to prove a point on the shot thread. I will most likely shoot 1 more before season just to ease the mind. Spin test the broad heads and if they spin true they will shoot true once you have your bow tuned perfectly. 3821a4062004f0cf4b6330de7336bdd0.jpg


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zeus1gdsm Newbie

zeus1gdsm

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I spent 100$ on a full tuning last fall. Already sunk more money into this bow then it's worth. ;) paper tuned etc.

I appreciate the input. One of these days I will make a target stand for paper gun targets and archery. Just don't have the funds right now.

I have the broadheads already. Will just need some replacement blades. This close to the season I just want to be dialed in for 40 yards and under. Consistent 2 inch groups is fine for me this go around.

Next year I'm due for couple dozen new arrows. I'll be reaching out here for advice on them come that time. Then I'll strip one and spend a day precision tuning the bow.

Also will need a new string and I'm going to get a new sight as well. At that point with a modern sight, rest, and new string the bow will be as new as it could be. With a dozen new arrows I'll be set for a few years until I can talk the wife into a new bow.

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Buckmaster7600 Mentor

Buckmaster7600

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I spent 100$ on a full tuning last fall. Already sunk more money into this bow then it's worth. default_wink.gif paper tuned etc.

I appreciate the input. One of these days I will make a target stand for paper gun targets and archery. Just don't have the funds right now.

I have the broadheads already. Will just need some replacement blades. This close to the season I just want to be dialed in for 40 yards and under. Consistent 2 inch groups is fine for me this go around.

Next year I'm due for couple dozen new arrows. I'll be reaching out here for advice on them come that time. Then I'll strip one and spend a day precision tuning the bow.

Also will need a new string and I'm going to get a new sight as well. At that point with a modern sight, rest, and new string the bow will be as new as it could be. With a dozen new arrows I'll be set for a few years until I can talk the wife into a new bow.

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1 8ft 2x4 and a roll of freezer paper is all you need to tune a bow. 15$ max. I have never heard of anyone paying to have a bow paper tuned but if so 100$ would be a steal! I would gladly pay double that to get my bow as perfectly tuned as it is.

But I'm sad to say your bow is not perfectly tuned. If you have spin tested your heads and they are not bent they should be hitting the same spot as your field points.

A properly tuned bow is not just about accuracy. If your nock is not directly behind your broadhead on impact your arrow is not able to put all the available kinetic energy into the target because you arrow will "whip" to the side.


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zeus1gdsm Newbie

zeus1gdsm

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I should add I'm working with a 10 year old bow. And a 10 year old sight. Sight has definitely seen better days.

I bought a dozen arrows last year. First batch was cut too short for broadheads to clear the riser. the next set was longer.

Im down to 4 of the originals and 4 of the new set.

Real hoop-d of a bow.

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Buckmaster7600 Mentor

Buckmaster7600

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I should add I'm working with a 10 year old bow. And a 10 year old sight. Sight has definitely seen better days.

I bought a dozen arrows last year. First batch was cut too short for broadheads to clear the riser. the next set was longer.

Im down to 4 of the originals and 4 of the new set.

Real hoop-d of a bow.

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Your sight makes no difference on a bows tune neither does the age as long as it's timed properly. Use the short ones for practice but tune and hunt with the longer ones. Tuning a bow cost basically nothing but time and is the single most important part of archery but it is seldom talked about.

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zeus1gdsm Newbie

zeus1gdsm

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1 8ft 2x4 and a roll of freezer paper is all you need to tune a bow. 15$ max. I have never heard of anyone paying to have a bow paper tuned but if so 100$ would be a steal! I would gladly pay double that to get my bow as perfectly tuned as it is.

But I'm sad to say your bow is not perfectly tuned. If you have spin tested your heads and they are not bent they should be hitting the same spot as your field points.

A properly tuned bow is not just about accuracy. If your nock is not directly behind your broadhead on impact your arrow is not able to put all the available kinetic energy into the target because you arrow will "whip" to the side.


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I assume you cut the 2x4 into 3 pieces. Say a 3 foot and 2 4 foots? Make a U shape?

I appreciate your insight and info regarding.nock in regards to force.

I will keep a close eye how my shafts land in relation to the heads.

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Buckmaster7600 Mentor

Buckmaster7600

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I assume you cut the 2x4 into 3 pieces. Say a 3 foot and 2 4 foots? Make a U shape?

I appreciate your insight and info regarding.nock in regards to force.

I will keep a close eye how my shafts land in relation to the heads.

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I use a 2ft piece screwed to the top of the 2 3ft pieces and set it in cinder blocks. Staple the paper across. News paper works it just tears very easy.

When I was in the service and didn't have a saw and I tuned my old bow by taping brown paper bags to a dolly and it worked just fine.

"I will keep a close eye how my shafts land in relation to the heads."

This is nearly impossible to see unless way out of wack with the naked eye. If your arrow isn't flying true it can and will really hurt penetration because the weight of the arrow will smack to a side instead of driving the broadhead forward.

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zeus1gdsm Newbie

zeus1gdsm

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Your sight makes no difference on a bows tune neither does the age as long as it's timed properly. Use the short ones for practice but tune and hunt with the longer ones. Tuning a bow cost basically nothing but time and is the single most important part of archery but it is seldom talked about.

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Alright I bite. I understand what your stressing here.

So I need to a) strip one of my hunting arrows except for the knocturnal. (what about insert)

Shoot that through paper at 10-20yards?

Adjust the rest until I get the perfect hole?

Once I've achieve the perfect hole. Then make sure my vanes nock and head all line up

Then adjust the sight for the new poi?



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Buckmaster7600 Mentor

Buckmaster7600

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I like to tune with a bare shaft but it's not needed. You can leave the fletch on you will just be looking for a perfect circle inside of the 3 lines "fletching." You want to be 4 or 5 ft from paper and make sure paper is more than an arrow length away from target.

Google arrow paper tuning guide and have the picture with u when u do it, it will help trust me.


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Buckmaster7600 Mentor

Buckmaster7600

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Found a good link with pics.

https://www.goldtip.com/arrowperformance.aspx?coid=15

I'll shoot it tomorrow or the next day. Just need to build the stand. I have old 2x4s laying around.

Once I achieve perfect tear. Then I move on to the sight and chase the point of impact with it correct?

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Yup! You will get pissed during this process trust me! It will Take a couple days because your form will suffer due to fatigue. 10-15 shots a day is what I have found to be best. Just worry about hitting the paper and form especially your anchor.


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The_Real_TCIII Grand Master

The_Real_TCIII

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1 8ft 2x4 and a roll of freezer paper is all you need to tune a bow. 15$ max. I have never heard of anyone paying to have a bow paper tuned but if so 100$ would be a steal! I would gladly pay double that to get my bow as perfectly tuned as it is.

But I'm sad to say your bow is not perfectly tuned. If you have spin tested your heads and they are not bent they should be hitting the same spot as your field points.

A properly tuned bow is not just about accuracy. If your nock is not directly behind your broadhead on impact your arrow is not able to put all the available kinetic energy into the target because you arrow will "whip" to the side.


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Ever heard of a "Chip Clip" used for keeping a bag of chips closed? Get two for $1. Hang one from a string in front of your target, clip a piece of paper in it, put another clip on the bottom of the paper. Instant paper tuner


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zeus1gdsm Newbie

zeus1gdsm

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Alright I did more reading on paper tuning.. Turns out your supposed to have a field point in!!!! Which explains all of my non-readable tears!!!

So field points in.

3725496698a2eda9a1f0a6ef8e7fd24a.jpg

I was shocked!

So I shot a bare shift with point.

8b47715f01b99c0c42c469c599756ffd.jpg

25 yards

85562a5a08e7e9c103a7aee9814cc2c5.jpg

The right flier is a practice blade broadhead. The other nocturnal is a hunting broadhead. Skinned half the vane off the field point.

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