nybuckboy
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Posts posted by nybuckboy
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This is the outside antenna mounted with the bracket screwed to the deck facing east to the closet cell tower.
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I can finally give my full report on this. I bought a weBoost Connect 4G Signal Booster Kit (Refurbished) - 470103R for $439.99 and also a Verizon Jet Pack MIFI7730L for $99 with a $50 rebate. Hooked it up in less than 5 minutes for the computer. Loads everything quicker than the HughesNet ever did.
HughesNet costs us $91 a month and sometimes if we used more data than our plan allowed near the end of the month it was worse than old dial up. We did need to increase our data from Verizon to unlimited at an extra $30 a month but we will save $61 a month and thus far we have way better service.
As I stated originally we have never had good reception where we live and we have a tin roof and would drop calls daily if we moved about the house when talking. None of us (wife, son and I) have dropped a single call anywhere in the house even in places where we could not get service before since we installed the WeBoost from Wilson Ampifiers.
So the initial outlay is about $490 and at $61 a month savings in 8 months we are even.
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OK well so far so very good. This is the system I got from Wilson Amplifiers.
https://www.wilsonamplifiers.com/weboost-connect-4g-cell-phone-signal-booster-kit-470103/
None of us have had a dropped call since the installation last Thursday night. We did a soft install and then Sunday afternnon did the hard install.
Now to get to Verizon to buy a Hotspot. We have used one of the cell phones as a hotspot to see how well it would work and this far it is at least as good as the Hughesnet.
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For the second time in about the past 10 days I had a big tom fly into my truck. Both times I was going about 30-35 mph and it launched itself into my path. The first time it flew within 10 ft of my windshield and flew across my path. Yesterday one started to launched itself on a run and stopped in mid air and dropped back down about 5 ft from running into the front right fender. Both times scared the crap out of me.
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Plan and hope to see some 125+ bucks this season as it will be the 4th year on the 100 acre wood and we have passed on all but 1 wide 6 that I took last bow season. Haven't taken another buck in 3 seasons and have had 4 different 8's on camera last year that were about 110-115 class.
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I've had people tell me that they have deer come in downwind of the smoke scent with their nose up the air smelling for it.
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good job
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Just curious here, but do any of you who smoke, smoke while on or in your stand? I know hunters who smoke during gun season but don't know any bow hunters who smoke while bow hunting.
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1 hour ago, mlammerhirt said:
That is why I was thinking both proper grip...and sight level are needed.
With an open hand grip having the bow grip between your thumb and index finger there shouldn't be any torquing of the bow.
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
True - key word shouldn't.
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8 hours ago, mlammerhirt said:
Back to torque....wouldn't the sight level and proper grip/hand alignment on the bow most likely eliminate torquing the bow?
On a side note....it looks like it works...keep drilling those X's and you will definitely have the confidence to put one through an ole bucks boiler room this fall!
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
The sight level could be perfect (vertical is perfect) but you could still have the bow torqued left or right.
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10 hours ago, Jeremy K said:
Where? My countdown clock says 152 days?
you're right 5 months X 30 = 150 duh!! Either way I got plenty of time.
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On 4/7/2017 at 11:19 AM, Steve D said:
Seems like all these "gadgets" are nothing more than excuses not to practice. Practice and more practice will do more for accuracy than any of these devices. Just one opinion.
Getting this "gadget" and the pin tuned in at 25 yds. So far so, so good, but a bit more to go. I shoot about 6 -10 arrows each day and then come back to the adjustments. No hurry - the season is a 124 days away.
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14 minutes ago, Rebel Darling said:
I'm not home at the moment, so the exact model no. escapes me, but this one is pretty close:
https://www.wilsonamplifiers.com/wilson-db-pro-4g-cell-phone-booster-kit-refurbished-460103r/
The reason we didn't go with the AT&T booster is that there is no, ummm... exterior antennae connected to an amplifier. They had only small antennae attached to the "amplifier" which also had the interior antennae. If my phone wasn't picking up the signal in the house, I was doubtful that their device would. Thing looked like a cheap wireless router, and the online reviews were just as bad.
This Wilson does its job, for certain. Money well spent, because the wife didn't want to live anywhere she wouldn't be able to call out for help - I agreed... Basically, you position (according to the limits within the instructions) the amplifier in a convenient location, and run a cable to the interior antennae, which is positioned in the house for best reception throughout. You place the exterior (which we mounted in a window) antennae facing the direction of your closest cell tower; your wireless provider can help you with positioning.
Im on the phone with Wlison trying to decide which is best for my situation. Money not the only object here because at alnost $100 a month for Hughescrap it'll come back to me quickly. Let me know when you get the model and cost too please.
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23 minutes ago, Rebel Darling said:
We're in a similar situation, but after speaking with our wireless provider rep, we decided to purchase a third-party booster from Wilson. It bumped our maybe one dot 4G, to full 4G. I'll likely start saving for an LTE booster in the next few months. The only issue I have is that the interior, suction-cup antennae holder falls off the window four or five times a year. It's loud, and will likely break one of these days. A more permanent mount on the exterior (if we had a second story and eaves, instead of hips) would be a better option.
The booster provides reception for our cell phones (we have no landline, and that's a whole different story...), as well as a "hot spot" for our Internet access. We're on a limited plan of 15GB per month, so we don't stream Internet like we did when we lived in a city. Books, magazines, and conversation have been better anyway... The Internet can sometimes drag a little, but I think that has more to do with the hot spot, than the cell booster.
what model did you buy? these are expensive buggers
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I live in a rural area in a hollow and the internet and phone service is poor. I use Hughes net as it is the only service available to me. My phone is Verizon wireless and I have no land phone. The phone service generally is 1 - 2 dots and as I walk around the house it can drop off. The Hughes net is marginal at best.
Is there a wireless phone booster that could be used a hot spot for both my internet and my phone service?
How do I go about hooking it up and what components should I purchase?
Any answers is appreciated.
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Absolutely should never have a gun again in his life. Unbelievable!
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Would you eat this one? LOL!
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17 minutes ago, nybuckboy said:
I have a 13 (bakers dozen) 28" Beman 400 MFX Real Tree arrows. These are custom weighted and balanced at 472 grains +/- 1 gr w/ 100 grain field points. They are balanced with a 13% FOC (front of center) and NAP Quick Spin Fletched wraps.
These are great arrows for someone who wants some extra weight to their arrows for better penetration and kinetic energy. These arrows are good to 70 lbs. 2 of the arrows on the far right have a damaged vane but easily rewrapped. 4 arrows come w/ the field points.
These were $10 each before discontinued w/o the NAP fletching and the added weight in the tip. They were about $14 each when I built them.
MAKE ME AN OFFER VIA PM + allow $10 for SHIPPING.
Beman MFX Team Realtree arrows with Blazer Vanes deliver devastating penetration and lethal downrange accuracy. Microdiameter, thick-walled shafts are the secret to the arrow's penetrating flight. With Hidden Insert Technology (HIT®), the broadhead shank aligns directly against the inside diameter of the shaft. This equates into tighter groups and maximum penetration. Arrows are full length with inserts loose. Per 6.
Sizes: 400-9.6 gpi, 340-10.4 gpi.
Draw Weight
(lbs.)27" Shaft 28" Shaft 29" Shaft 30" Shaft 31" Shaft 32" Shaft 45-50 - - - 400 400 400 50-55 - - 400 400 400 400 55-60 - 400 400 400 400 340 60-65 400 400 400 400 340 340 65-70 400 400 400 340 340 340 70-76 400 400 340 340 340 - 76-82 400 340 340 340 - - -
I have a 13 (bakers dozen) 28" Beman 400 MFX Real Tree arrows. These are custom weighted and balanced at 472 grains +/- 1 gr w/ 100 grain field points. They are balanced with a 13% FOC (front of center) and NAP Quick Spin Fletched wraps.
These are great arrows for someone who wants some extra weight to their arrows for better penetration and kinetic energy. These arrows are good to 70 lbs. 2 of the arrows on the far right have a damaged vane but easily rewrapped. 4 arrows come w/ the field points.
These were $10 each before discontinued w/o the NAP fletching and the added weight in the tip. They were about $14 each when I built them.
MAKE ME AN OFFER VIA PM + allow $10 for SHIPPING.
Beman MFX Team Realtree arrows with Blazer Vanes deliver devastating penetration and lethal downrange accuracy. Microdiameter, thick-walled shafts are the secret to the arrow's penetrating flight. With Hidden Insert Technology (HIT®), the broadhead shank aligns directly against the inside diameter of the shaft. This equates into tighter groups and maximum penetration. Arrows are full length with inserts loose. Per 6.
Sizes: 400-9.6 gpi, 340-10.4 gpi.
Draw Weight
(lbs.)27" Shaft 28" Shaft 29" Shaft 30" Shaft 31" Shaft 32" Shaft 45-50 - - - 400 400 400 50-55 - - 400 400 400 400 55-60 - 400 400 400 400 340 60-65 400 400 400 400 340 340 65-70 400 400 400 340 340 340 70-76 400 400 340 340 340 - 76-82 400 340 340 340 - - 
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You really can't go wrong with a 30.06. Available anywhere and many grain and bullet choices. I'd go 180 gr for bear.
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37 minutes ago, The_Real_TCIII said:
So I come to full draw, anchor, check the AS to make sure that dot is centered, then focus on my pin as normal?
Yep TC3 - Pretty much perfect right there.
That is after you have set it all up and adjusted the Anchor Sight and the pin(s) - you do just as you stated above.
NOTE: If you already have your bow set up and simply want to remove the in string peep and replace it with the Anchor Sight, you simply installed the plate that the anchor sight attaches to underneath your original sight and move the pin over to the RIGHT about an 1/8th inch because the pins are already adjusted. May have to fine tune it slightly L or R before your finished but no big deal.
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Here's the new video on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/anchorsight
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24 minutes ago, growalot said:
I had a peep eliminator...Now my bad...mental thing, lost biggest buck I ever shot using it one time hunting...neighbors enjoying him though...Anyways It was great in practice all summer long...had my longest perfect shots with it ,40yrd shaft shavers...That one was just like looking through a rifle sight. I'm just not able to shoot a bow with sights... Just not happening with a live animal in front of me....can't do it, but undeniable, this is a great product and it was easier to sight in then my guns.
Nothing like the peep eliminator. I've tried this type as well as the cross hair rear sight type ones and could never use them accurately. The Anchor is not a sight... it's an alignment device. Totally different concept.
I had searched for and tried most all of the others trying to avoid an in the string peep. I have using the Timberline no peep, similar to the Anchor for the past 15 years. I like using both eyes open which is much better in low light.
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54 minutes ago, moog5050 said:
Wouldn't a kisser confirm your anchor sufficiently if you don't want to use a peep? Seems like a lot to look at that anchor site, then the pin and then the deer. I am glad it works for you but that's a lot of cross referencing to get a shot off just to eliminate a peep. Can you see that sight any better in low light than looking through a peep? 1/4" peep lets in plenty of light for me. Regardless, I hope you kill plenty-o-animals with it!
Absolutely... but you never know if the bow is torqued. You don't know it using an in the string peep either. Bow torque is probably one of the biggest reasons hunters miss their mark. If the bow is torqued even a bit at 25 yds the arrow could be 6 inches or more off the point of intended impact point. The Anchor assures you that the bow is not torqued and you are perfectly aligned for the shot especially when you may have to bend and/or twist your body to make a shot.
Poor internet and phone service
in General Chit Chat
Posted
Did yours look like this one?