Flinch locks

[rachunter]

I’m look to get a dedicated round ball muzzle loader one with a 1-60” twist. Most likely a .54 caliber because I already have a tc renegade. Looking around I found a Lyman Great Plains rifle in 54 with a 1-65” twist but it’s a flintlock. I spent the night looking at videos of flintlocks and just about everyone started of calling them flinch lock because the flash. Does anyone shoot a flintlock and is that a big concern. Also any other info on them would be great. I’m waiting for a book I ordered on the subject, but prefer first hand knowledge.

 

 

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[Daveboone]

Flintlocks have a lot larger learning curve...With some work they can ignite almost as instantly as a percussion....almost. Of course they are much more moisture/rain susceptible, and you will need to learn to tinker with the flint. Follow through is the name of the game...really, the same as any rifle for best shooting. Practice at follow through with the trigger pull. Most folks just dont shoot enough to get proficient. I have a flintlock pistol which is alot of fun, and I have learned alot from. I desperatly want a northern PA style flinter myself, but dont have the 2g or so to get what I want. Lets face it, they are really where it all began. 

I wouldnt recommend one if you dont WANT a flinter. They take dedication to get proficient with. If you are patient, you shouldnt have any problem finding a Lyman GPR like what you want. Black powder rifles were not affected anywhere near as much as moderns with supply this past year, but still a bit. Finding you rpowder may be a bit tougher. Now, if you want to be dedicated with patch and ball, go real black powder. It still ignites the easiest, is easiest to work up a load for, and to me isnt any more difficult than the modern loads to clean up after...if you are disciplined enough to do it right away, everytime.

[rachunter]

Flintlocks have a lot larger learning curve...With some work they can ignite almost as instantly as a percussion....almost. Of course they are much more moisture/rain susceptible, and you will need to learn to tinker with the flint. Follow through is the name of the game...really, the same as any rifle for best shooting. Practice at follow through with the trigger pull. Most folks just dont shoot enough to get proficient. I have a flintlock pistol which is alot of fun, and I have learned alot from. I desperatly want a northern PA style flinter myself, but dont have the 2g or so to get what I want. Lets face it, they are really where it all began. 
I wouldnt recommend one if you dont WANT a flinter. They take dedication to get proficient with. If you are patient, you shouldnt have any problem finding a Lyman GPR like what you want. Black powder rifles were not affected anywhere near as much as moderns with supply this past year, but still a bit. Finding you rpowder may be a bit tougher. Now, if you want to be dedicated with patch and ball, go real black powder. It still ignites the easiest, is easiest to work up a load for, and to me isnt any more difficult than the modern loads to clean up after...if you are disciplined enough to do it right away, everytime.

Thanks after watching a few more videos I’m going to pass on the flintlock and keep looking for a percussion Great Plains rifle with a 1-65” twist. Thumbing through this book I have to try shooting my renegade with a high charge. I’ve been using 90grs the book says between 100-120grs. For hunting with round balls.



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[Daveboone]

I am surprised with that charge...100-120 gr.! Shoot your gun in for accuracy. Best group, best charge. I actually only use 80 grains of FFg with my patch and ball. Keep in mind the conservative ranges you will be shooting at. Placement is everything. It doesnt take alot to kill a whitetail with a properly placed bullet.

[rachunter]

ya i went back and reread the paragraph he was talking about taking ANY big game on the continent with 100-120grs. and a patch round ball.I started at 80grs. and stopped at 90grs. because of the accuracy.When the weather breaks i'm going to play around with my renegade.

[Splitear]

13 hours ago, Daveboone said:

I am surprised with that charge...100-120 gr.! Shoot your gun in for accuracy. Best group, best charge. I actually only use 80 grains of FFg with my patch and ball. Keep in mind the conservative ranges you will be shooting at. Placement is everything. It doesnt take alot to kill a whitetail with a properly placed bullet.

I get the best groups out of my New Englander with 70gr. RS Pyrodex. “Best group, best charge” is a great way of putting it. 

[rachunter]

I get the best groups out of my New Englander with 70gr. RS Pyrodex. “Best group, best charge” is a great way of putting it. 

But does it have enough energy to kill at 100 yards. That’s something I never looked into before reading this book. How much energy does it take to kill a deer at 100 yards?

That data is for a 28” barrel with a 1-48” twist


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[Splitear]

1 hour ago, rachunter said:

But does it have enough energy to kill at 100 yards. That’s something I never looked into before reading this book. How much energy does it take to kill a deer at 100 yards?

That data is for a 28” barrel with a 1-48” twist


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Great question. I honestly have never looked at the ballistics, and have never shot to that range. I would let someone else who is more knowledgeable field that one. Thanks for sharing the photo, I might have to dig a little deeper on that. 

[Daveboone]

Maybe the better question.... with open sights, can you consistently hit a deer at 100? With a scope on my inline I can, but with my GPR I self limit 50 or so...Sure, I can hit a deer somewhere in the front quarter, but I sure as hell cant pick my shot as I would expect with my scoped rifles at 100. 

[rachunter]

75yrds. would be my max. i'm going to run a few shot through my chronograph and see if those numbers match.My thing is if i make a less then perfect shot like i did this year with my inline i want the energy to knock it down.I hit the deer high and back but she drop right in her tracks after skinning her the bruising went from the spine almost around the rib cage on both sides.I'm kinda new to gun hunting i've only shot 26 deer with guns mostly shotgun and a few with a muzzleloader.It's a totally different game then hemorrhaging from an arrow.It's the shock from the bullet that does the work right?

[Daveboone]

Just a thought.... A twelve gauge slug has massive energy, even out to 100 yards. Without being a spine or double shoulder shot I have seen countless deer still run with an imperfect shot (back in the day we used to do alot of brush busting and drives with jump shooting with the required shotgun). Round ball tends to be a very clean wound, killing from the immediate wound damage. That means accurate placement. You will not substantially make any difference with boosting that velocity. Penetration yes, collateral damage, no. That is one of the things I love about hunting with cap and ball. There is almost no surrounding tissue damage with a shoulder shot, just a clean hole.