External batteries/cold weather

[wooly]

I've been running the Wildgame Innovation battery boxes on a few of my cams the last 2 seasons.

Last winter I killed two WGI 6V batteries with this set up. I may have let them run dead for too long and they wont take a charge.

Shortly after switching back to regular Alkaline or Lithiums for the summer months, the cameras themselves died.

 

Even with the rubber weatherproof seal in excellent condition and no cracks in the boxes, they always seem to collect condensation inside the box no matter what season the calender says it is.

I picked up a few new 6V's this year and another 12V for my Moultrie but I'm a little nervous about running them through the winter months even though that's what my primary intentions were.

So a few questions for you guys that have more experience running these things through the winter months...or anything else you may feel I need to know. Thanks in advance!

 

- Do you guys modify/insulate the battery boxes in any way for COLD weather applications

-How long do you expect a charge to last from your 6V-12V units before you run the risk of running them dead when temps dip below freezing?

-Have you noticed camera life itself is jeopardized when switching between external batteries and back to conventionals?

-Why would I get that blue corrosive build up at the connection between the battery and camera?

 

 

[phade]

I learned switching to lithium AAs (when feasible) are a better option to reduce problems that can come with external boxes and solar panels. Everything from condensation you noted, to the batteries being fried, to extra weight to tote, to rodents chewing on the cable, to squirrels pulling the cables out. The only solar panel/6v I would consider now is for my Code Blacks just because of the power draw they have with connecting to the network and transmitting. I don't like keeping them out in winter though other than to see what made it past the season for the first post-season week or two.

 

The problem with condensation in the winter is that its all around you. Simply closing an air tight box can yield condensation at this time of year.

 

No difference in lifespan, from what I can gather.

 

The build up is similar to what you would get on a car battery.

 

 

 

Edited December 6, 2013 by phade

[wooly]

That's pretty much what I suspected but figured I'd throw it out there just in case.

I made the crossover from conventional AA alkalines to Energizer lithiums in my M-80 this spring and the difference is astonishing!

Also picked up some of the Energizer AA rechargeables and those hold up REALLY well too, but the camera doesn't show 100% charge on those for some reason. I think I remember the manual saying it would only show 60% at full charge, but I still get paranoid whenever I see levels dip to 40% especially running video.

 

The external packs I'm running off my old junker D-55 and D-65, and Primos Ulra Blackout so not much loss if there is any connection to these packs killing my cams.

 

 

[phade]

the gauge is for alkalines. dont go by it with lithiums for sure....go by pic count to be safe. lithiums will show full or very near to it and the battieres could be practically dead. rechargeables are a different voltage so thats why you are seeing the percent difference.

[wooly]

Yup- once the lithiums started to fall off the 100% mark, they dropped like a rock after 85%....., but it took a LOOOOOOONG time for that to happen.(didn't get a pic count, but near 1yr)

Those rechargeables got me 1500 thirty second night vids w/1500 pics before crapping out.

Not too shabby IMO, so I may just go that route from now on with my AA cameras. Right around the same price as the lithiums, I just need to get some extra to swap out while recharging the dead ones.

[DanceswithSkunks]

Buy a cheap VOM ie Volt meter for under $10 and measure the batteries.

 

Those 6V batteries that are stone dead, Are they NiCad ? If so you can hit them with 9 volts for about 4 hours then put them on the 6 volt charger. Depending how far gone they are NiCad will come back when hit with 150% voltage.

 

NiMH batteries have a very low self discharge rate. They will hold 85% of their charge after one year in storage.

 

The voltage required by the camera is one thing, but it's the current consumption that you need to be concerned with. The more current your camera draws the faster the voltage will drop. 

 

I have some $99 Bushnell cams I got at Wally World that advertise 6 month battery life using 4 alkaline AAs . I just pulled the card from one that was out since Memorial Day weekend and was still taking pics when I changed cards and batteries. Sometime during the summer it got hit with an EMP from a near by lightening strike. Only thing that happened was the date changed by 33 days. I don't run it in video mode. 3 pic burst with 10 second delay.

 

Check out MaHa.

 

http://www.mahaenergy.com/batteries/

[PREDATE]

A few silica gel packets thrown inside may curb the corrosive moisture