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Dry Case Neck Lube?


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Since day one I have always used the same case lube that I do the outside of my brass cases as I do for the inside of the case mouth-neck. I just swish the inside case neck brush across the lube pad and then run the brush into the case mouth. I have yet to have a stuck case or a misfire from lube contamination using this original method I was taught from the very start. Still I have always liked the idea of lubing the inside of the neck with dry lube. I have seen several dry lube deals such as the Redding bead system and the Forster dry lube brush setup. Just wondering if anyone has tried any the dry lube setups and what their opinion of them is especially when it comes to stuck expander buttons.

 

 

Al

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Well I decided to go with Midway's Frankford Arsenal brush and mica setup and give it a try and see how I like it. 

 

Al

You can see how I set mine up just to the left of the press.

 

DSC04972_zpsiilzpudp.jpg

 

That's the tub of Mica behind the powder dispenser,

 

Left to right:

 

Frankford Arsenal Vibratory case tumbler (STILL SOLD BY HARBOR FREIGHT)

Wood jaw Vise

Lee "Zip Trim

Gem Pro 250 electronic scale

Frankford Arseneal battery powered powder trickler

Frankford Arsenal "Perfect Powder Dispenser"

Franford Arsenal Mica Case Neck Lube Station.

Frankford Arsenal "O" press

 

I bought a $250 "package" from Midway USA back in 2000 that came W/most of the items listed & some others that are not. It was quite a deal at the time.

 

Right next to the Nosler manuals on the 1st shelf you can see the green plastic sponge tray sticking out at an angle.(right above/behind the trickler)

 

Just above that is the end of my powder funnel that comes W/various caliber specific ends for the case mouth that are housed in the light gray case. On the right are my wooden loading trays. The wood trays were discontinued right after I bought them. I have trays for case head sizes from 22 Hornet to 45/70.

 

To the left of the funnel are my dial calipers (I like dial better than digital, no batteries to fail) in the red case sitting on top of my. RCBS hand priming tool. Various die sets fill the shelves to the left.

 

I made my loading bench from a cheap computer desk that is reinforced W/2x6s under the vise & press as well as a 2x6 running along the back that is anchored into the wall studs.I added a drawer kit. (under the vise) The bulletin board & center (black) shelving was part of the desk & I added some more (pale green) 1x6 cubby holes & shelves that are also anchored to the wall studs. I filled the whole wall surrounding the center section W/6" track shelving.

 

 

Edited by wildcat junkie
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WJ...how do you like  the zip trim? I went for the adapter from lee that chucks into a drill motor. uses the Lee shell bases and length gauges but was thinking that might work pretty well. 

I don't even think they are available anymore. I had some issues W/mine, but a little "tuning" resolved the issues & it has worked flawlessly for years. the thing works like a recoil on a lawnmower engine. I had to add shims or something inside the mechanism, I don't remember exactly.

 

All that being said, it's a quick set up, just insert the case head & bottom it in the shell holder. Turn the holder down 1/4 turn or so to tighten & it's ready. Insert the tool, give it about 1-3 pulls W/the trimmer, (you will see when it quits cutting) 1 more pull  W/the inside chamfer tool, 1 for the outside & the case is finished. Turn the shell holder 1/4 turn or so & the case slips out.

 

It's a lot handier that using a drill. IMO. Aside from the stud, it uses the same components as the drill set-up.

 

I just checked & MIDWAY still sells them. I bought mine when they 1st came out 15 or so years ago so I'm sure the minor little issues I had are probably dealt with by now.

 

Edited by wildcat junkie
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I replaced my old worn buzzy tumbler last fall with a Frankford Arsenal and cleaned a bunch of brass over the winter with great results, I am very happy with it so far.

 

Al

I took mine apart this winter due to a loose connection. The "vibrator" is a chunk of steel that must weigh several ounces mounted way off center that creates quite a shaking affect.

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I used to use wax lube on the outside and wet lube on a neck brush on the inside when I full length resized brass.  But I always have problems with wet lube on a brush for inside the neck.

 

I went to just neck sizing my brass for some calibers and just use the Imperial dry lube/bead system, very simple, easy and effective.

 

I've just tried using wax lube on most of the body including shoulder and dry lube the case neck inside and out on virgin brass.  It worked very well.

 

I may be in the minority, but I've always had trouble using wet/spray on lube on a brush for inside the neck.  It got messy and I was never sure I lubed the entire surface or used too much.  It's just so much easier for me to dip the case necks into the dry media.

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