Photo Challenges

[Doc]

One of the more challenging areas where I do some picture taking is in a huge ravine area of dense heavy old-growth style hemlock woods that is very dark and shaded with many spots of intense sunlight streaming down through, burning out the areas of the picture where the sun is hitting. Anybody find any cures for these violent contrasts in lighting? There is a lot of great landscape subjects and wild critters in that area.

[wooly]

Not sure if your camera allows you to change light metering modes or not.

If it does, you would do best to set it to "Matrix metering" where it will expose the picture for the entire scene. It's still hit or miss with many variables that affect it, but that would be the best choice IMO.

Spot metering and center weighted metering are going to blow out the highlights every time in that situation when you're just measuring the light available on your subject.

 

Or you could just wait until you have a slightly overcast day to even the light out so you're not confusing your cameras sensor. Getting their early or late in the day (the golden hours) will also tone down those harsh "hot spots" as the sun sets lower in the sky and will add depth and shadows.

[Caveman]

I second matrix metering like Wooly said.

Another option is if you use any post-production software like photoshop, lightroom, etc. You can also strategically expose for the bright areas when you shoot, effectively leaving the rest of your shot very dark, and "bring up" the under-exposed areas in the software after the fact. You can also do the opposite to an extent, though it's easier to get detail from underexposed shadow than from blown highlights.

A last option, and admittedly very advanced and not great for wildlife photography where your subject is on the move is a technique called high dynamic range, or HDR, though I highly doubt it would be suitable to the type of shooting you're describing. It's really better for landscapes.

[Elmo]

Not going to repeat what others have already said (matrix metering/post production software).  Having a graduated neutral density filter on your lens is very helpful but it only works if you can isolate the bright section from the dark section.  If you're going to do a lot of landscape photography then a ND filter should be in your bag.

[Doc]

I'll try the matrix metering. I think I have tried everything that I can as far as post-processing with photo software. It's a tough deal because it is those intense contrasts that catches my eye in he first place. The super-shadowed forest with the rays of intense sunlight streaking through makes a pretty dramatic and powerful backdrop for a deer picture or something of that sort.

 

Example taken years ago, with some pretty primitive equipment and then wrecked even further because it is a conversion from slide to digital ...... but shows the general idea of the kind of wrestling match I am frequently having with lighting:

Edited April 26, 2016 by Doc

[alloutdoors]

For landscapes/static subjects you can try HDR as suggested. For a single frame though, if the dynamic range of the scene exceeds the range that your camera can capture there isn't really anything you can do. The "answer" is to shoot at times when the dynamic range is lower such as early or late in the day, or when it is slightly overcast. Harsh, direct mid-day light generally sucks for photography. You can retreat to the shade, but if you are getting dappled light through the canopy it won't be any better (can actually be worse).