zeus1gdsm

Here we go........ In order... Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

What is this bot fly you all speak of? Surely not the kind that resides in and below the equator? Those larva grow the size of a 1/4 inside their host and will get into people. Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

Alright I'll have to adjust my back ground to accommodate blind shooting Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

Found a good link with pics. https://www.goldtip.com/arrowperformance.aspx?coid=15 I'll shoot it tomorrow or the next day. Just need to build the stand. I have old 2x4s laying around. Once I achieve perfect tear. Then I move on to the sight and chase the point of impact with it correct? Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

Alright I bite. I understand what your stressing here. So I need to a) strip one of my hunting arrows except for the knocturnal. (what about insert) Shoot that through paper at 10-20yards? Adjust the rest until I get the perfect hole? Once I've achieve the perfect hole. Then make sure my vanes nock and head all line up Then adjust the sight for the new poi? Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

I assume you cut the 2x4 into 3 pieces. Say a 3 foot and 2 4 foots? Make a U shape? I appreciate your insight and info regarding.nock in regards to force. I will keep a close eye how my shafts land in relation to the heads. Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

I should add I'm working with a 10 year old bow. And a 10 year old sight. Sight has definitely seen better days. I bought a dozen arrows last year. First batch was cut too short for broadheads to clear the riser. the next set was longer. Im down to 4 of the originals and 4 of the new set. Real hoop-d of a bow. Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

I spent 100$ on a full tuning last fall. Already sunk more money into this bow then it's worth. paper tuned etc. I appreciate the input. One of these days I will make a target stand for paper gun targets and archery. Just don't have the funds right now. I have the broadheads already. Will just need some replacement blades. This close to the season I just want to be dialed in for 40 yards and under. Consistent 2 inch groups is fine for me this go around. Next year I'm due for couple dozen new arrows. I'll be reaching out here for advice on them come that time. Then I'll strip one and spend a day precision tuning the bow. Also will need a new string and I'm going to get a new sight as well. At that point with a modern sight, rest, and new string the bow will be as new as it could be. With a dozen new arrows I'll be set for a few years until I can talk the wife into a new bow. Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

So I've had my fields dialed in for a while now... Got my pins set to 40 yards and confident in the grouping.... Switch to broadhead and I'm consistently 6-8 inches right of the fields points. Did some Googling and saw a slight rest adjustment to the left might bring them in line. Well a bunch of micro moves later. And I was way off.. And arrow flight was negatively affected. Brought it back to what I thought was it's original position and suddenly my broads and fields are hiting within 1 inch. So man did that save myself some grief. I noticed that 2 of my set group differently. One set is about a 1/2 inch longer than my broadhead arrows so I'm guessing that is part of why I'm getting 2 different groups with each set of arrows. So I'm putting broadhead on all my hunting arrows. And only shooting the one set. I'll have to order new BHs to replace these ones that I'm using. But it will be nice to get dialed with just broadheads. Also noticed one of the broads flies high and right and wacky. I'm guessing bad spine or shift. So I set it aside and marked it. I'll update tomorrow after switching to all BHs. Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

80 for 3 on amazon. Regular 40 a piece. So u get 3 for 2. Could make them cheaper if you were so inclined. Definitely piece of mind going up and down. Hss says in packaging ropes are replaced every 2 years. Not sure if they are replacing them. Or suggesting you too. Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

I picked up the hss tree to ground Prussia knot with carribeener. Wife gasped at the 80$ price. But the piece of mind is well worth it. Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

Thanks. I had the rest installed and paper-lined etc right before last season. I'll give it a shot Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

Thanks. Always been confused on that Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

Arrows on target are fields at 30. The flier to the right is a broadhead at 40. each time I shoot my broads it seems my shots are right of Center. Should I tune towards the broadhead as the season gets closer? Or focus on aiming with the fields to tighten groups? I should add this isn't first group this is after about 18 arrows.

Alright I just got confused.... A sw wind is a wind blowing towards to sw correct? Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

The eastern boundary from the northern road. Is swamp field no trees. 2-3 feet deep. We tried coming in that way last year. Didn't hit sturdy ground until we hit the Orchard. Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

I should add that when the wind does change. It goes from northwest to southeast. My limited knowledge tells me this would be my ideal day to hunt. Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

Extremely rough map... On the other side of the big River is used farmers field. Typically hay.... Distances... For scale. The distance between the 2 north footplot stands and the southern one is a little over 150 yards. The distance from the southern stands to the deer run is about 70 yards... Again the wind is predominantly west to East. Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

So my land I hunt is a only hunt let on 20 of the 30 acres. As the other 30 is terrible thick scrub old field.... It's used as a massive bedding area with 2 major roads bordering it. We know they move through it. But until we get a tripod we don't hunt it. Simply ro keep it intact and preserved. Where we do hunt is hardwoods mixed with an old apple Orchard that doesn't produce much if any mass. (we did some work on it to help it for next year's apple production) Our food plot sits on the edge of the Orchard in the center of the property. Cross a small marsh area and we have another thick bedding area to the east. Now the issue is that we can only really enter the woods from the west. And the deer come in from the east.. However the prominent wind is west to East.... Our stands are north and south of the plot... We do have some homemade stands on the far East of the property in the southern corner. I took a deer out of this last year. There is a heavy run that comes west to East through this location for the built stands. And sure enough. That's how I got the doe last year. So the sign reading and stand placement paid off.. The issue is that with a predominant wind of West to East the entry path comes in from the west. The deer use our entry path for the wood stands. So with a predominantly west to East wind for the property. And all entry points being on the west end. And the deer typically entering from the east during hunting hours. Should I wait until a North south wind to hunt this? Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

I just read an article on salmon river in field n stream. Now I'm pumped. 1 month away. I went end of season last year on a guided drift boat. Ended up being a terrible fishing day. Only saw 1 fish landed. I hooked up once. None the less. I now have the waders and a tiny bit of experience. I have the bug. And the article restarted it. I don't however have any "salmon" gear. And I'm looking to go with a guy from work who is also a one timer. So I'm soliciting the collective for advice. I have a 7foot one piece medium action bass rig ( and quite a few smaller bass/trout rigs). Tons of bass and trout gear and a low end fly rod (I'm.a terrible fly fisherman.) I don't think I'd have the space for attempting to fly fishing the river at peak. But I'm lethal accurate with a spinning rod and years of fishing for bass along ragged shorelines. So help me out. Can I use my bass rod? What test? What type of line ( I run braid)? We used different colored egg sacs on the drift as well as a "pearl" bead. We also used a float. Simply dropping or casting the line to current and watching it float down. Is this method acceptable at peak from shore? I don't have anyone to teach me so I'm hoping someone will take pity on me and give me pointers on line/rigs, and cast methods. Maybe even a spot visit pm? We drifted for 5 hrs. The entire length of the northern section. But didn't go through Pulaski. Thanks all Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

Hope it goes to a newbie like me! I inherited my bow and spent 150 getting it shootable. Really looking forward to my harvest with bow this year. Fingers crossed of course Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

Actually based on what I am able to find online. It looks like it may be older than mine.... That being the case I withdraw Way to pay it forward man. Good karma is sure to come your way. Hopefully with the house? Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

I'd be interested if it's newer than 2007.... I'm shooting a decade old switchback. Very rough shape. And heavy as a 12guage. I won't be able to get a new bow for at least 5 years when the wife can start working again. I would hand my Matthews down to my buddy so he can go archery with me. Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

Grow op? Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

Rofl Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk