Jump to content

UpStateRedNeck

Members
  • Posts

    2961
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

 Content Type 

Profiles

Forums

Hunting New York - NY Hunting, Deer, Bow Hunting, Fishing, Trapping, Predator News and Forums

Media Demo

Links

Calendar

Store

Posts posted by UpStateRedNeck

  1. 1 hour ago, Swamp_bucks said:

    @UpStateRedNeck

    my setup is the XOP Vanish with the mini XOP locking sticks.  Last year i stealth stripped everything minus the after market steps. I ran 2 cable aiders on my lower sticks to get me the extra height.  I would just bring a ratchet strap to secure the sticks to the stand.         Seats, cables, sticks and buckles all stealth stripped.  I’m 250lbs and I only use one strap on the stand with and never had a fear of falling out or not holding me. Never flexed on me or felt unsafe and is extremely quite.  Will say the XOP finish on the stand sucks and will start to wear quickly.   Seat isn’t the best I’ve been on but isn’t horrible I do a lot of standing so I like that it flips over and gives be a cushion to lean against.  Typical stand backpack harness they suck so upgraded those.   Make sure you have a good harness and lineman’s belt. 
     

    Loved the setup lightweight and ability to get into just about any tree.  Sat from 5’ -20’ last year and average setup time was 10mins.  Multiple times walked a mile or more with it on my back. However there was some things I needed to change up.

    Changes for this year is I took apart the connecting handle and brackets to lighten up the setup some more.  (No longer locking sticks) I bought a couple more after market steps to finish off my other 2 sticks.  Added a bow holder midway through last year and a quiver holder.  Still have to tape up all the after market steps because they make to much noise if they hit each other. I also am ditching the ratchet strap and bought their j-hooks to secure the sticks to my stand.  I got a stick attachment from a friend to help me when I climb this year.  (Keeps my last stick on my stand so I can just grab it while I climb) Also didn’t like the cable aiders so i ditch r those. I Didn’t like coming down in the dark trying to find a place for my foot in the dark.  Now I set my sticks on the stand this year actually makes a platform with the seat to place a bag or other gear  on. 

    Parts:

    XOP sticks and stands,jhooks , stealth strips, KMHS bow holder(NY company), back pack straps are off an old alps bag and quiver holder is just a bolt I put in the stand works for my elite brand quiver. Hunting beast gear has one for quick connect quivers. 

    anything else you have questions about let me know.  There are better stands out there but at a lot higher price tag. If I had the money I would go with the beast stand and sticks myself. I just can’t make a $1000 purchase on a stand and sticks. 

     

    F1C99821-BA80-4FB8-8E60-69C03C5C6E44.jpeg

    00425F41-0D61-4C31-A98D-11A3729AD7F0.jpeg

    1295C9D8-9AAD-4923-9D7D-8406B69819A7.jpeg

    C11B4C80-9068-4014-9C6E-6D601061D9A8.jpeg

    DB330444-4A5B-4908-BA5B-33C92F037953.jpeg

    9DDC646B-7C0D-4B3B-8B35-C8B8CD9ADA62.jpeg

    7EAE1073-4D9B-4F52-96F4-3A5EB55453CE.jpeg

    Thank you very much, that's really helpful!  I was pricing out the Tethered saddles last night, a little over 600$, not including sticks.  Perhaps someday, in the mean time XOP seems like a good place to start.

  2. 11 hours ago, 518BowSlayer said:

    Been contemplating doing spray foam but it will cost a fortune. Fiberglass ain't gonna be cheap for a building this size either though. Floors need a ton of work before I can even think of laying epoxy over them. Lots of pitting and cracking from years of water leaking. Let me know if you got that meth connection... I could use the cash! Lol

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
     

    Insulation:  What I did for my basement, which was way, way cheaper was repurposed board insulation.  A co-worker gave me contact info for a guy out near I think Amsterdam, and I got all the board insulation for pennies on the dollar.  I did have to spend a day washing and drying it.  THen dry locked the crap out of the walls, and glued the board insulation over.  I'll see if I can dig up the contact info if you're interested.

     

    Epoxy:  I epoxy'd my basement floor before I laid the pergo down.  It was a multiple day process for even such a small space.  Acid etching then, multiple washes, dry, then washing again.  It would be really pricey with the pure square footage you're working with.  Without even considering the pits you have to work with.  

    • Like 1
  3. 20 minutes ago, moog5050 said:

    I don’t own any kuiu.  Have a lot of Sitka and it’s consistent in size.  

    It's inconsistent.  Used to run too small, now it's more true to size.  Some of it's me, I was a little tight in a 38 prior to ACL surgery, now I'm comfortable in a 34, except for big thighs ><

  4. 20 hours ago, Belo said:

    I'm wondering what I should do with my spring plot. I've mowed it twice now and after the rains it's super lush. Most of it is generally "tall weed" free. The weeds that I have aren't going to be touched by any sprays but a part of one of the plots has some decent queen anne's lace. Even at an 8+" mow I'm still clipping some chicory. I mowed a small section but not sure if I just leave it be or mow it again.

    some not so great pictures to try and demonstrate mowed vs unmowed

    IMG_2219.thumb.JPEG.f15eba197706b7747a5da9ee18bc028d.JPEG

    IMG_2220.thumb.JPEG.d03702e6cd76839dcba7266e98cfff3f.JPEG

    IMG_2221.thumb.JPEG.0e0e06fb3401ef7d36be4fda9e7e03b4.JPEG

    IMG_2222.thumb.JPEG.d0ee190c256cb529e30cbbcec16f72b9.JPEG

    IMG_2223.thumb.JPEG.8e155a97157aed8d5c5e3bee04e64bf0.JPEG

    IMG_2224.thumb.JPEG.e8b0b39f426d6fde91f5665f3afca823.JPEG

    I like to mow about 1 - 2 weeks before the opener, then hunt it if the wind is right during the first week of bow.  After that it's all does during daylight.  

    • Like 3
  5. 1 hour ago, phade said:

    Wowsers on that topo....

    I know this might sound crazy but can you just work around them? Most of the chemical option I don't think I'd want to do for a food plot area. 

    You probably could still work dirt carefully and let nature take its course. Maybe even avoid churning dirt all together with proper strategy. I mean, given that aerial, nearly anything you plant would be a draw of some sort. Rye, brassicas, clover, whatever. All of that stuff doesn't really require working the dirt technically.

    That's plan B.  I'm not sure I can even get the plot master down there without rolling the quad.  Even taking the "gentle" way down.  I "think" I can, if I get a real aggressive set of tires for my quad, get it back out.  

  6. Got the quote from the guy who does stump grinding.  Was double what he said over the phone.  Why?  Because the spot is brutal to get to.  It's the triangle on the map below.  I don't feel like blowing 5k on one plot.  

    Anyone have any ideas/experience with stump removal in hard to reach places?  I was toying with the idea of renting a grinder, and using the quad winch to get it up the 2 very steep grades to the spot, then putting in a couple days myself.  Any advice appreciated on what kind of grinder/where to rent?

     

    Sometime when it's good and wet I'll make a big brush pile or 3 and burn the tops/various detritus.  Spot itself is outstanding.

    PXL_20220910_200326795.jpg

    markup_576.png

    IMG_20220908_200239.jpg

×
×
  • Create New...