wildcat junkie

I have seen the mule kick and it usually means a heart shot. I seen it with a broadhead too. However, I have seen the same thing with a brisket hit from a CF rifle.

In get a kick out of all these nimrods that show up at the range with "lighted reticles". My 3-9 X 42 Kalhles will allow antler ID @ 250 yds in the shadows of the long shooting lane in front of my tri-pod waaay past legal shooting hours. I can still see my duplex reticle against a deer's shoulder for quite some time after it gets too dark to even see antlers. Are the optics in those scopes really THAT bad? "BDC" reticles are another source of amusement. Unless the specific rifle has had the specific load/bullet shot over a chronograph and the BDC calibrated to that specific Mv/BC, how in the world can it "compensate" for bullet drop on shots of 300 yds or more?

8 X 56 will have a 7mm exit pupil. The average human eye has about a maximum of 5mm pupil. A waste of glass, metal & weight unless you have a larger than average pupil.. It's called marketing. Give the uninformed public what it wants and thinks it needs

Unless you have 10 x or more magnification, a 50 mm objective lens is a waste. Any objective lens diameter that is more than 5 x the magnification (in mm) will transmit more light than the human eye can admit.

The M98 action is what is known as a "controlled round feed" action. The cartridge is in control of the bolt from the time it is stripped from the magazine until either the round or empty case is ejected. It is impossible to double feed a properly functioning M98 action. If the bolt is double stroked before the cartridge is fully stripped from the magazine, the partially fed cartridge will prevent another from being stripped from the magazine. As the original cartridge is pushed far enough to be completely stripped from the magazine, the extractor will grab the case head & "control" the cartridge. In order for this function to operate correctly, the cartridges need to be held in the "stack" as precisely as possible. The internal dimensions of the magazine width are milled so that the cartridges are stacked in a perfect 60* relationship with the body of the case having contact with the magazine walls as well as the adjacent cartridges from the base to the shoulder. The formula for this dimension is case diameter X cosine of 30* (.866) + the case diameter. One the vast majority of non-magnum cartridges that are based on the .473" case head diameter of the original 8 X 57 cartridge that formula for the rear width of the magazine is .473 X .866 + .473 = .883" with a few .001" tolerance to allow for variance in cartridge dimension. So, the good news is that as long as you are re-chambering your M98 for .473" cartridge head diameter, the rear of the magazine is the perfect width. The bad news is that if you are going to utilize a different cartridge that has less taper than the original, the shoulders will bridge the internal width and the case heads will then "float" in the magazine. Here is a drawing of an 8X57 case. If we subtract the diameter of the shoulder from the diameter of the case base/head and divide it by the length from the base to the shoulder, we get a taper than equals .023" per inch. Here is the 7 X 57 case. If we use the same formula, we see that the 7X57 has slightly more taper at .025" per inch. While this is a difference, it is slight and more taper will have the case head bridging the width before the shoulder which, while not ideal, as not as bad as having the shoulders bridge. Any "float" will be at the shoulder and will be less than what individual case tolerances would amount to. The case head, the part that the bolt must push against until the cartridge is stripped from the magazine, will be stable. Since the 257 Roberts and 6mm Remington are merely necked down from the 7 X 57 case, they will work quite well in an unmodified 8 X 57 or 7 X 57 magazine. The problem arrizes when a cartridge not directly based on either cartridge is employed. The 30-06 isn't that much of a problem as it has a taper that is not a drastic change form the 8 X 57 spec, but with the M48 Yugoslavian intermediate length 98 action or its commercial counterparts, the '06 length cartridges are not a viable option. So, just chamber it in a .308 based cartridge you say? Not so easy. The .308 case has far less taper than the 8 X 57 or even the '06. You will notice that even though the head to shoulder length of the 7mm-08 is significantly shorter than any of the '57mm cases, the shoulder diameter is quite a bit larger. The same would be true of all .308 based cartridges. If we subtract .454 from .473 and divide by 1.56, we only get a taper of .012 per inch, or about 1/2 of the '57mm cartridges. The magazine width requirement at the shoulder would be .454 x .866 + .454 = .847" At the same distance from the back of the magazine, the original cartridges would require a width of just .815", a .032" deficit. While this might not seem significant, (it is) when 5 cartridges are stacked in the magazine the effect is multiplied by 2 1/2. Indeed 2 or 3 cartridges in the magazine would not seem to affect the feeding that much, but when 4 of 5 are loaded, getting those 1st few cartridges to feed reliably can become a crap shoot. So, back to the question as to whether this requires a "gunsmith" of can be done at home. While it doesn't require a "gunsmith" persee, it isn't something one can do at home unless one has access to a mill. It can be done with a file, but that would extend to the bottom edges of the box which would be unsightly when the floorplate was released and it would significantly weaken the box. This operation need to at least be farmed out to a local machinist with a milling machine that understands the required operation. Which begs the question; Why bother? If you don't reload, it will be easier to find .308/7mm-08/243 Winchester ammunition. However, if you do reload, the 8X57 will push a 200gr bullet at higher Mv as a 180gr bullet from a .308 when loaded to similar pressure. A 7 X 57 will out preform the 7mm-08 by as much as 150 fps when similar bullets are loaded to similar pressure. The same can be said of the 6mm Remington compared to the .243. The intermediate action 98s will not saddle one with a "short action" 2.80" cartridge length. They will allow up to a 3.20" OA cartridge length so why saddle it with a short stubby cartridge? I am building a 7 X 57 on a VZ500 intermediate length M98. The barrel will allow a COAL of about 3.150" with the bullet "just off the lands" once the long chamber is head-spaced in my action.

The only parts of this rifle that are original military parts are the receiver, the bottom metal & the barrel. The receiver has been milled, drilled & tapped for scope bases, the bolt handle was cut off & a new one welded on, the barrel is cut back, re-contoured & chambered in a different cartridge and the bottom metal has the locking screw holes eliminted, the trigger bow modified and the internal dimensions milled for the new cartridge. It has a new stock, a 3-position Mod 70 type safety and a Timney fully adjustable trigger, To call it "sporterized" is a bit of a stretch IMO. I would think it would be closer to what would be called "custom" than sporterized.

Wood stock, blue steel, NO SIGHTS and best of all, a controlled round feed action copied directly from the M98! Good choice. Find some of this. Soak a rag with it and use it to wipe down the EXTERIOR of the rifle and polish with a soft clean cloth. It is a wax based compound and it will preserve as well as nourish the wood. It will also protect the metal from rust. DO NOT use it on moving parts as it will get tacky in cold weather.

if you stay with a 7X57 or an offspring of same (.257 Bob, 6mm Rem) you will have the proper magazine geometry for an accurate 30* stack that will keep the cases in full contact with each other & the magazine sides/follower. Gong to a .308 based cartridge will require some minor modifications to the sides of the box & the follower for flawless feeding. 6.5x 55 will require a slight enlargement of the bolt face & magazine width dimensions. Again, if you want an ,06/.270/.280, etc, you will need to find a M98K receiver.

Any short/medium length standard cartridge will fit. Bear in mind that '06 length cartridges won't fit. Maximum COAL for intermediate length M98 actions is about 3.20", and '06 length is 3.40". Unlike the M98K action, the intermediates are already maxed out in length. M98Ks can be expanded to 3.420" by merely using a file on the front & rear of the box.

30/40 Krag when I'm in a stand with limited range. It belonged to my late Father & has been in the family since 1958. 8x57IS 8mm-06 Ackley Improved that I just finished..

M48 would be excellent for 8x57, 7x57, .257 Roberts, 6mm Remington (the last 2 being better suited to the intermediate length Mauser than the "short" commercial actions they are usually chambered in) and 6.5x55. The intermediate length M98 action is tailor made for those cartridges. Here's my VZ500 action with a Dennis Olsen contour on a 98K barrel for some inspiration.

Oops, I posted the wrong link. here is the completed project.

If you can find a good M98 Mauser action, I have an excellent take off barrel that I would sell you cheap. If you reload, the 8x57 will out perform the 30-06 with bullets of 200gr or more. You can do an 8X57 in a M48 Yugo which the military equivalent to the VZ-500 intermediate commercial action. If you find a M98K action, you could go to the 8mm-06 or the Ackley Improved version of the same. Then you are getting close to 338 Win Mag performance. For the price of a new M700, you could have a unique piece with a Timney trigger, 3-position safety, nicer wood & the satisfaction of doing most of it yourself. I'm going to ask for some small things for Christmas so I can finish my Dad';s Krag & then maybe I can get at the 7x57 Oberdorph Classic I was wanting to have completed by now. I'm not getting any younger & I have 3 more 98 actions to build. before I run out of time VZ500 with a Shaw barrel in 7X57 Oberndorph M998K action with a M98/29 barrel in 8X68S 1936 Mexican small ring 98 in 6.5 x 55.

I am just now getting to the point where I have fewer screw ups to fix/cover up than I used to. A big factor in quality work is not accepting shoddy results & taking the time to make things right. You can learn a great deal by fixing mistakes.

I took it out yesterday evening. It has a boiled linseed oil finish that is somewhat soft yet durable. Minor scuffs & scratches can be rubbed out with fine steel wool & more linseed oil.

When I was about 15 years old, a neighbor across the street died. About a week later his wife Alice, came over with a M98K that Pat had picked up on the battlefield in WWII. It was a "duffel cut" in very nice condition with all matching numbers..She told me that Pat had wanted me to have it. In my late teens I bought a Fajan stock & threw away the military stock & furniture. In 2000 I really went to town on it having it D&Ted for a scope, the bolt handle cut off & a Harris style handle welded on. I bought the stock you see & had the original barrel chambered & turned down.. The results weren't very good as far as accuracy. I sold the barrel & the stock spent the better part of 14 years in the gun safe. A few years back I learned about "duffel cuts" & when I found some information on the marking, I learned it was manufactured by J.P Sauer & Sohn in 1943. If you look at the close up of the left side, you can still see the Eagle/Swastika on the receiver ring just below the front bottom corner of the scope mount base. J. P. Sauer & Sohn Mausers are one of the rarest & highest quality types. Even though it was a late war build, it still had excellent fit & finish despite having the stamped sheet-metal trigger-guard/magazine box albeit with the milled floorplate.. Over the last few years I have been tinkering around with the parts, adding a M98/29 barrel that was cut back to 26", crowned, re-contoured & re-chambered to 8mm-06 A.I. I also utilized a 1904 Portuguese trigger-guard with a hinged floorplate.

I have contacted some various folks that do checkering in the past, but I can't seem to muster the courage to send one of my babies away to have checkering work done after I have gone through all the blood sweat & tears of finishing it. I approached a local guy when I had finished the 8x57 Oberndorph Classic, but when he saw the finished rifle, he became somewhat intimidated & respectfully declined my request. Still, checkering is the icing on the cake so to speak. I have an old Fajen stock from the 1970s standing in the corner gathering dust. I guess it's time for me to try my hand at checkering. BTW:. Thanks everyone for the compliments.

The completed project can be seen here. https://huntingny.com/forums/forum/41-guns-and-rifles-and-discussions/

Somehow, the 26" barrel doesn't look "tong" with the overall proportions. It seems to be able to keep shots under 1" at 100 yds. I haven't had a chance to do a session under good conditions. I tried to post some video clips of how it smashes watermelons, but my cameraman is an iPhone/Facebook addict and can't understand old fashioned e-mail. On the day at the range, it seemed ti be shooting nearly as tight as the 8X57 and that's a hard act to follow..

The new & improved version of my 8mm-06 Ackley Improved!

Ok, a few of you caught on right off & I'm sure some others have figured it out by now. I appreciate the helpful advice given on how to prevent future rusting. However, the fact is, the rust is intentional and the damp miserable weather has been a great help in my efforts to apply a "slow rust blue" finish to my rifle. "Rust bluing" is a very desirable finish for several reasons. It can be applied to firearms that have soft soldered assemblies such as barrels band swivel studs or sights. High end English double barrel shotguns & rifles are rust blued for that very reason since the barrels are soft soldered together to allow precise "regulation" of patterns or POI. Hot tank bluing with salts would attack the solder. It is extremely durable since the finish is micro etched into the surface. It is much more durable than conventional hot tank bluing & vastly more durable than the various "cold" blues. It gives a subtle, rich dark charcoal gray satin finish. It can be done with a minimal amount of investment in tools & supplies. I bought the boiling tank pictured since I have done 2 and intend to do several more firearms. (I didn't know about the steam pipe method either) A stem pipe can be fabricated for about $30 bringing your total investment to less than $50 for the solution & tools.It is not technically difficult, but it takes a lot of time/work over the course of several days. The drawback is the time & effort involved but the satisfaction of a DIY bluing technique that is used on high end firearms that cost 5 or even 5 figure$ makes it all worthwhile. Below is a link that shows how to fabricate a stream pipe from cheap, easily acquired materials. http://www.rustblue.com/blog/why-should-you-steam-rather-than-boil/ Another link to a tutorial about rust bluing. It is not necessary to use distilled water as I get good results from either my softened or non-softened well water. The warm box isn't needed in damp either & the parts can be hung in a corner of the bathroom in drier conditions. (an understanding wife/hubbie helps here) Also, Brownells sells their own brand of rust bluing solution that is less than 1/2 the price of the "Pilkingtons". There will be enough solution to do 2 rifles if you don't waste the product. http://shop.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/metal-bluing/specialty-bluing-chemicals/classic-rust-blue-sku082000010-22820-48994.aspx?cm_mmc=PPC-_-Itwine-_-Google-_-082-000-010&gclid=CJjT6t2chdACFcEmhgodWhEBQw I took some pictures of the progress of color as the bolt was rusted/boiled/carded. I only had enough solution for 3 cycles, but it came out a nice rich dark charcoal gray. Since I only wanted to blue the portion of the bolt that was visible behind the rear bridge, I used "frog tape" to protect the polished finish on the rest of the bolt. This picture is after the 1st rust application. I usually leave the 1st application on for 24 hours to get a good etch into the surface. Small parts are boiled for 30 minutes on top of the stove in a SS kettle. SS allows the kettle to be returned to cooking duties afterward. (again, an understanding significant other helps) Here is what the parts will look like after boiling. They will turn black, but may have a dark chocolate brown appearance sometimes. Do not be concerned as the metal will not be brown under the surface once the film is carded off. This is how the bolt looked after 1 "cycle". Notice it has taken on a medium gray color. (The bolt knob is the easiest place to gauge the color change) On the second rust cycle, I reduce the rust time to 12 hours to prevent pitting. Note the deeper gray color after carding the 2nd rust/boil. The 3rd rust cycle. And the darker color that results. I would have done another cycle or 2 but I was running out of solution & time. It is still a very deep charcoal gray under natural light. The competed bolt assembly with the Dakota Arms 3-position Model 70 type safety.

It seems that the links won't work for anyone not on my facebook list. I'll get them downloaded to my computer & repost.

My son, his buddy Curtis & I got a chance to do some melon smashing at the range yesterday. We had several set up on the berm behind the 100yd line, about 110yds. I apologize for the poor video quality. It was taken with a cellphone and it was drizzling, sometimes pouring rain. Luckily we had a nice covered firing line to shoot under. Go full screen for the best affect. 1st up, my son with his grandpa's 30/40 Krag. Listen for the action cycle after the shot. No bolt action cycles smoother than a Krag! https://www.facebook.com/curtis.moulton/videos/1198861566826825/ Now, the BIG hammer. My newly completed 8mm-06 Ackley Improved. Impact velocity at 110yds is about 2700 fps and with the 200gr bullet, that equated to about 3300 ft# of energy. Watch the melon on the far left. https://www.facebook.com/joshua.fennell.14/videos/1324423957582360/ Now, for a bit more of a challenge I try a shot with the 8mm-06 A.I. on a "Sugar Baby" icebox melon. It's about the size of a cantaloupe. If you look closely, in the middle of the shot, (left-right) about midway up the bare earth area on the berm you'll see the small dark green orb just before it turns into a cloud of mist. ,https://www.facebook.com/joshua.fennell.14/videos/1324425940915495/

Just saw the charge on my debit card. $2.94.

While surfing a reasonably priced leather sling of the interweb I came across one and then the other of these slings. (They ain't cheap either!) The top one is a Browning "Barbed Wire" sling & I think it will go good on my 8mm-06 Ackley as it has a Western big game theme. The Bottom one is a Browning "Buffalo Nickel" sling. Given the fact that the Buffalo Nickel was minted in the early part of the 20th century, it will go great with the 30/40 Krag as it was probably 1st sold on the civilian market during that era.