Broadhead help...

[shawnhu]

Can we see a pic of what we are dealing with btw? Curious to see why it doesn't clear the shelf.

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[moog5050]

I think they are 1-1/8".  They may be grizztricks or magnums, I will check.

 

I can't speak to spine as I am not familiar with the stl hunter - is that equivalent of a typical 400 spine?

[Cbarber4]

I have slt 300 my draw is 29 in with 70 lbs and my shop said the 200 were too light for me

[chrisw]

Can we see a pic of what we are dealing with btw? Curious to see why it doesn't clear the shelf.

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If your arrows are cut to be just in front of the rest at full draw, the way the blades sweep back on the ramcats they will catch the riser shelf, or contact the riser shelf depending on the height your rest sits above the shelf itself. I shoot a drop a way and with my shorter arrows I cannot come to full draw with ramcats because they catch the riser before I can hit the draw stop. It sounds confusing but I know because I also had these issues at first. I had to cut more arrows 1.5" longer to leave plenty of room for clearance.

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[aspen_00]

That's a heavy broadhea for that poundage, go with a 75 or 100 grain, also need a little longer arrow

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Edited October 2, 2015 by aspen_00

[shawnhu]

That's a heavy broadhea for that poundage, go with a 75 or 100 grain, also need a little longer arrow

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Isn't broad head weight important in determining the FOC of an arrow setup? How important is the weight of a broad head vs the poundage of bow?

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[aspen_00]

It is important if your having problems with it, given everything else is set up correctly, a bow at 49 lbs will push a lighter grain faster, giving it better range and accuracy, making bow is tuned , sighted in etc. you also want to make sure the fletchings line up with your blades, makes it more consistent, think of your weight of broadheads and speed like ballistics of a bullet

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[zeus1gdsm]

I'm at 31inch draw and 49lbs

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[moog5050]

He has a long draw. 31". Needs a full length 32" arrow and BH that doesn't sweep so far back. Also needs to put the bow back to proper centershot and tune. 125g head will work just fine with the right spine. My 50lb recurve shoots 175g heads with 100g inserts well. But I use a 340 spine. His compound should be much faster. I bet 125g with full length 400s will fly well.

[zeus1gdsm]

I have all 200s

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[moog5050]

The 200s are just over a 400 spine. Stl apparently is not the most consistent arrow but just roll them to check for straightness. The slick trick I send should work fine if you get the bow back in tune

[zeus1gdsm]

If your arrows are cut to be just in front of the rest at full draw, the way the blades sweep back on the ramcats they will catch the riser shelf, or contact the riser shelf depending on the height your rest sits above the shelf itself. I shoot a drop a way and with my shorter arrows I cannot come to full draw with ramcats because they catch the riser before I can hit the draw stop. It sounds confusing but I know because I also had these issues at first. I had to cut more arrows 1.5" longer to leave plenty of room for clearance.

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This the issue. They sweep back to far and hit the side of the bow. But not the riser

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[shawnhu]

Well, that's quite a dilemma. I'd paper tune the bow to ensure the rest is back to center and wait for new BH's to come in.

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[zeus1gdsm]

Here we go.... This is with a decently strong right to left wind. I draw righthanded

Also please bear in mind I'm new and have been shooting for only a month

First 20 yard group after readjusting rest and sight

Further adjustment 20 yards.

30 yards

1st broadhead group 20yrds

2nd group 20 yards broadheads

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Edited October 2, 2015 by zeus1gdsm

[zeus1gdsm]

General pics. We all love pics.

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[zeus1gdsm]

I feel that the broadhead vanes are slightly wider than the fieldpoints...

I'm thinking I should shift the rest a hairs to the left further to allow a tad more clearance.

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[shawnhu]

Here we go.... This is with a decently strong right to left wind. I draw righthanded

Also please bear in mind I'm new and have been shooting for only a month

DSC_0236.JPG

First 20 yard group after readjusting rest and sight

DSC_0237.JPG

Further adjustment 20 yards.

DSC_0238.JPG

30 yards

DSC_0239.JPG

1st broadhead group 20yrds

DSC_0240.JPG

2nd group 20 yards broadheads

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Think you need to tap the rest a tad to the left to broad head tune. Try to get broad heads and field tips to hit in the same vicinity.

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Edited October 2, 2015 by shawnhu

[zeus1gdsm]

Are 3-5 inch groups sufficient enough?

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[shawnhu]

General pics. We all love pics.

DSC_0242.JPG

DSC_0241.JPG

DSC_0244.JPG

DSC_0246.JPG

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Are those broad heads legal in NY? Might want to double check. Looks kind of barbed.

Could you get a pic of the bow shelf from the left of the bow? Rest seems a bit low. At eye level, looking from the left side of the bow, the arrow should pass through the two small holes that the rest bolts on to.

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[zeus1gdsm]

Also I Robin hooded an arrow at on point and stripped a vane off.... Can I just really it in the same position with super glue?

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[shawnhu]

Are 3-5 inch groups sufficient enough?

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A deer's vitals are generally 8" or so. Those groups are sufficient for deer. You know the saying, tighter is always better

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[shawnhu]

Also I Robin hooded an arrow at on point and stripped a vane off.... Can I just really it in the same position with super glue?

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You can put a tiny bit on the vane and place it back, yes. If the vanes are straight and not helical, it should be relatively easy. Just follow the old glue residue.

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[zeus1gdsm]

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[shawnhu]

I feel that the broadhead vanes are slightly wider than the fieldpoints...

I'm thinking I should shift the rest a hairs to the left further to allow a tad more clearance.

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The rest isn't there to allow or not allow clearance. There's a proper place the rest needs to be, and that's not dependent on clearance of vanes and broad heads. I think this is an important point that you need to keep in mind.

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[zeus1gdsm]

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