Anyone tie their own String Loops ?

[hunterguy1961]

Hey NYH I would definitely check the spine of the arrows that you are shooting with the new bow, It really sounds like the spine is off just my opinion and yes I now what a opinion is lol

[WNYBuckHunter]

NFA, remember, the Heli-m is a faster bow than your MQ1, and will require arrows with a stiffer spine to them.

[NFA-ADK]

My MQ1 was a 70lbs w/28 1/2 draw set to 65ish... The Heli is 65 w 28" draw. The speed change is about 20-35 fps change I think. No crono yet... But you might be right on that one WNYBuckHUnter. The charts have me right in the middle with 400 or 340's I will try some 340's and see if it makes a change... Dam I just bought 12 400's with lighted knocks... Arg...

In so far as draw length, Yes the new bow is set at 28" (closer to 28 1/4)yet with the new release, D-loop and a extra 1/4 on the draw length adds up to about a 1 1/4 inch dif in anchor points. Wich makes me feel overbowed. Note if the anchor point was back any further I could not shoot this bow...

My trigger on the heli is at my anchor point of my MQ1 or very close(around a inch dif). I will try to have someone take a picture to show you guys. A shorter release or tension release would change this putting me back under my chin as a anchor point instead of back of jaw/ear point. I have even tried to tighten the strap on my release to use my wrist bone to hold back the release another inch yet that hurts as it was not designed for the wrist...

Like most have said the draw length is the same, but with over a 1 " change in anchor points it affects my set up(form). It took me a week of shooting to find my "feel good" anchor point with the Heli. And yes the anchor point is part of your draw, If the D-loop was 2" you would have to drop your draw length to keep the same anchor point... Anchor point should be consistant with both bow's making a switch in the field due to bow problems a non issue.

The biggest factor with me is the fact that the release feels longer and the trigger is further away from my finger on top of feeling overbowed with the back of chin anchor point. If this release was adjustable about one more inch I would be ok. Just spent 1500 $ on the bow, arrows and release so I am going play with the release before spending more money... Plus test out another 6 arrows at 10$ a pop, lol...

[SplitG2]

NFA- good luck!

[NFA-ADK]

Thanks Splitg2 and sorry for taking over your post FastEddie...

[fasteddie]

Thanks Splitg2 and sorry for taking over your post FastEddie...

Hey , if it stirs up some interest and conversation , have at it .

[NFA-ADK]

Tried out a new release today. T.R.U. Ball B.T. Gold Ultra 3. WOW talk about form! I shot a 6 inch group at 40 yards then went on to shot some 3 D. After missing 2 targets I started to dislike this release, lol. It is all about form, after my form started to get worse as the day progressed my shooting became horible. I think it is a great tool for working on your form yet I dont like it's position on my face or the inablilty to "snap shoot" or follow up quickly, not that you can not do that its just I can't...

Still seeing the arrows wobble, picked up 8 Beman ICS Hunter 340 - 9.3 gpi 0.003 tol. l"ll try them out but as this release has shown me I need to work on a more consistant form... Easyer when Im tired to "snap shoot" the target rather than hold a good form and steady pin in place over the target. This release has shown me that even though I can shoot good my form needs much improvement, Ha and I thought I was doing so good, lol...

[dave6x6]

I have always used a loop and i tie my own as well. It's very easy to do and i'm a bit fussy about the length of the loop. Mine needs to be as short as i can get while still being able to clip on the release. Just as your string will stretch, so will your loop and if you don't notice it your shooting may become inconsistant. At least thats the case with me. With a short, tight loop, I can see the suttle stretch and re-tie when it starts to cause my draw and ancor to be out of sinc so to speak. I suppose thats one advantage that the solid loops have but i've used them briefly one season and they have a tendency to put accuracy robbing torque on the string if you don't have really solid form. A loop will be more forgiving to minor form flaws.

[WNYBuckHunter]

Sounds like a paper tune may be in order NFA. Your rest or nock point may be off.

[NFA-ADK]

That is a very good posiblilty WNYBuckHUnter. I just want to verify my form is good, proper arrows, and elliminate any tourching of my bow before changing anything. After reading a few things about paper tuning, I tend to agree with the guys down at C&B that a bow does not need to be paper tuned. After I verify no form issues and proper arrows, if I still have any issues, that will be my next step. I see my form needs some work and I have a tendancy to tourch my bow, once I resolve these issues I will see if a tuning is still needed. Hard for me to loosen my grip on the bow, another part of my form I am working on...

[dave6x6]

Paper tuning is a real debate these days isn't it? For me, I just can't sleep at night unless i know what my arrows are doing 10-20-30 ft down range. It just makes me feel better. LOL. That being said. Grouping with broadheads trumps all paper holes at the end of the day. Fortunately with my bow and set-up and form, bullet holes make the tightest groups. I've heard certain bows like to shoot better without perfect holes but that would drive me nuts.