moog5050

Like doewhacker mentioned, it should actually help. It's a process. Small adjustments until BH and FP are in the same group at 20. Then try the same at 30 and 40 and report back. You will get there. In the end, the goal is to have the FP and BH to hit same POI including same vertical line as you walk back.

What is the bow? What is your rest centershot set at? You need to move the rest to the left. Do it at small increments until the FP group with the BH. Shoot BH first so as not to damage vanes. You are not at a loss. Just learning. You will get there.

We hunt small properties so I leave most in the truck. Handwarmers with muff as grampy suggested. Harness. Knife. Little food and water. Range finder and grunt tube. Small flashlight. Phone. That's my typical pack. I use a small first responder bag (or no bag) until I plan for all day sits. When I hunt the swamp, I add a drag rope. Have fun and don't burn out early. My first hunt was an all day sit on opening day bow. A hot 13 hours in the stand. I learned quickly not to sit all day that early in the season.

I have no doubt we could get there. The bow weighed 5lbs without the quiver. There was still room to move the draw stops more. I personally don't like too little holding weight. Easy to get lazy on the shot. My bow is at 12 but it's 82lbs.

I meant the ATA. But the Z is only an inch longer. Maybe you are really close on rest clearance with the occasional contact.

87 percent let off with room for a bit more. Not too shabby.

Core if your center shot (horizontal rest adjustment) is off left or right, it will show on walk back tuning. The arrow will keep moving further away from the bull. Thus if you are dead Center bull at 20 and 4" right at 30 and 8" right at 40, you need to move the rest to the left. That's the basic premise. It primarily addresses the horizontal aspect of your rest setting. You can also see nock point issues but honestly on most compounds as long as the bow is timed, then a level or slightly high nock point will shoot fine. Walk back is more complicated when broad head tuning as what you are really doing is moving the rest so that the horizontal poi is exactly the same for BH and Fp. Moving them towards each other and really moving the BH to the FP for the most part. Theoretically if you tuned precisely for FP on the walk back, the BH shoot hit the same spot, but BH will show even more minor adjustments required. Trust me, once you have done it for a while, it is not tea leaf reading. And, for most archers, it's much better than paper tuning since, unless you are VERY consistent, paper will show minor tears that will cause you to chase your tail as the problem is not the tune but the archers lack of consistency. Zeus, i would spend your efforts walk back tuning and give the paper a rest. Some of your photos show tears in opposite directions. That's more the Indian than the bow. Also Zeus, be sure you are dead Center at 20 before moving to 30 or 40 because if you are off horizontally at 20 due to the sight being off, that error will grow. Site in at 20 well, then shoot at 30 and 40. If arrows walk out left at distance, move rest right. Or vice versa. If you move rest, you will have to resight or at least know you are now 2" right at 20 and be sure at 30 and 40 you are only 2" right and then resight. For a novice, I suggest resighting at 20 every time you adjust rest.

Lol. I would refrain from BH in the house. Yikes. Good shooting.

Core if your center shot (horizontal rest adjustment) is off left or right, it will show on walk back tuning. The arrow will keep moving further away from the bull. Thus if you are dead Center bull at 20 and 4" right at 30 and 8" right at 40, you need to move the rest to the left. That's the basic premise. It primarily addresses the horizontal aspect of your rest setting. You can also see nock point issues but honestly on most compounds as long as the bow is timed, then a level or slightly high nock point will shoot fine. Walk back is more complicated when broad head tuning as what you are really doing is moving the rest so that the horizontal poi is exactly the same for BH and Fp. Moving them towards each other and really moving the BH to the FP for the most part. Theoretically if you tuned precisely for FP on the walk back, the BH should hit the same spot, but BH will show even more minor adjustments required. Trust me, once you have done it for a while, it is not tea leaf reading. And, for most archers, it's much better than paper tuning since, unless you are VERY consistent, paper will show minor tears that will cause you to chase your tail as the problem is not the tune but the archers lack of consistency. Zeus, i would spend your efforts walk back tuning and give the paper a rest. Some of your photos show tears in opposite directions. That's more the Indian than the bow.

Osso bucco made with cow neck is simmering away. Smells so good. Would send a photo but broke the camera lens on my iPhone. Looks as good as it smells.

Best part is that my kids don't go to either school district I pay taxes too. Oh well, is what it is and I knew it when I bought the land and decided to send the kids to private schools.

That is strange Jeremy. 2" group at 30 is great but then one off paper makes no sense. You think it's too short for you?

Lol. Sounds fair. I will then just hunt in Europe where I can roam wherever I please. Please toss a little extra in the box for the purchase price and my trip to Europe. Thanks JJB. Very generous of you.

Where are you located Jeremy. Elite makes a good bow. I suspect the i31 just needs some tweaking. Happy to help. Stop by or send it to me. In Webster. I have owned 10 elites or more and always was able to tune them to shoot well. Just takes a little experience.

Well I agree with LJC on one thing, I shouldn't have to pay taxes on my undeveloped land. Unfortunately, the county and school district disagree. Just got my bill.

One of the easiest I have ever set up. Centershot was perfect based on Elites recommendation. Time and synced perfect from factory. Gottfa say I was impressed with the Synergy. Smooth draw, great valley, as usual solid back wall and holding at 8lbs. No excuses for Phade - not that he will need one. The bow is good. Lol

I am sure its good Doewhacker. I like coffee, but I am one of those any coffee will do people.

I will add this just for Pygmy - Everyone likes a big rack, bur medium and small racks are great too. To each his own.

I will admit to putting flavored creamer in my folgers, but that is as far as I go. Kids going to college at some point - can't waste their tuition money on $8 cups of coffee. Somehow my unemployed (relative to remain un-named) finds the means to do so.

Politics aside, where would I buy my frappemochachinolatte? $1 per letter per cup (ice is extra). I think I spelled that right. For those wondering, it works as well as the fireballs Larry mentioned. Not quite as convenient or cost effective though.

All cams lean to some extent at full draw.

Core If anything, I would try a weaker spine, or just add 25g to the tip of your arrow. Stiffer spine will cause a larger right tear. In any event, if the slight rest adjustment resulted in bullet holes, stay with what you have. You will start chasing your tail with new spined arrows.

Sorry that should be small adjustment to the right.

Looks like an old arrow fletching jig

Lay away is accepted. lol