Jaeger

Got to remove a couple of red squirrels from under a home trailer. Starting a nest in the floor insulation. Anyone got a recommendation on what to use? People have a dog that is running from one end of the trailer to the other at ~11Pm-3am barking because of it. Traps -live trap or is there a small cubby/110 set? Bait? I need to get them out quickly. Thanks.

He also has a great series of small paperback books of trapping humor! Seriously, he does produce some good guides to trapping. And remember, NYS has a trapping mentoring program. A good site to start that is more trapping specific is: http://nytrappers.proboards.com/ A good forum for learning here in NY.

So guys, let's flip it. Does anyone know what, if anything, positive these critters contribute to the environment? I couldn't find anything on the DEC site other than they are unprotected. I still worry about possible dog interaction, both direct and disease from eating poop. And we do have quite a few fisher which are supposed to eat them (not doing a great job as I've seen 5-6 porcupine on one outing very close to the house ~ 400yds)

I have and use a seat exactly like you show but now only at semi-permanent sites. It got too heavy and cumbersome to carry while still hunting. I just got a screw in type tree seat that open up into a T shape and has a triangular support that folds down against the tree after I screw it in with the 4+" tapered screw. I know I can only use it on private land and with permission, but it is so much lighter and more compact. I'll post a pic (when I can get pic reduction figured out) and a review before next season.

How many of you hunt porcupines and why? I ask because I seem now to be reluctant to shoot them. When Schatz got a face full of quills when she was a puppy I went on a porcupine vendetta. (note to self: don't shoot them in the backyard with a shotgun, quills everywhere!!!!) But now, several years later and having trained her to be wary of them, I am reluctant to shoot them. Yes, the pile of porcupine poop at the base of a tree looks like some one dumped several 50 lb sacks of kibbles and yes Schatz makes every attempt she can to eat it (mostly grass but I worry about disease). Yes, I am very familiar with their taste for our treated lumber and plywood stands as well as the salt in our brake lines. But when I see a family of 3-4 sitting quietly up in a tree looking down at us, I cannot bring myself to shoot them. How do you guys feel or deal with them?

No trouble finding ammo for it. In fact, the gun shop I bought it from had got in two boxes to sell with the gun and even gave me a deal on them. The funny thing is people are trying to sell 50 round boxes of the 86gr rem. ammo on line for anywhere from $80-150 for a box of 50 when my dealer can simple order it from his supplier and charge me $60 a box. Guess some people don't know that factories still produce "obsolete" ammo and most wholesale suppliers are happy to get the stuff out of their warehouses! Now about those triangular holes, are there any oldtimers who may have seen such a set up at a fair or circus? I'm starting to wonder if it might have been used as a "gallery gun". P.s., I also got dies to reload. The 86grain jacketd bullets are available as are 60 grain jacket. The seemingly preferred 75grains jacketed less so. But there are many sellers of lead/gas checked 75 grains bullets.

And yes, if not cleaned they will develop a corrosion spot or two on the outside. Can's say about the bore as I always try to wipe mine out.

To get a hunting license you need to take a hunters safety course. Check with the DEC, DEP or a local sporting goods shop. It is my understanding that to own and possess a long gun within the NYC limits you need to register the gun with the City. You might want to see if you qualify for that first, otherwise your hunting might be limited to bow only.

That is GORGEOUS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Tell all! What model did you get? What wood did you choose? I see you got the antler take-down knobs. I'm writing this before reading the other responses it's soooo cool. I am thinking of test driving a KB model and a PSR recurve. Blackwidow has a great facility, was there at the Asbell clinic. Congratulations!! Many, many happy years with it! And yes, oh yes! The deer should be very, very afraid! So silent and deadly!

Her smile says it all! Congratulations and well done young lady. It's your passport to a lifetime of wonderful experiences and adventures!

Still working on the pics guys, but in the meantime it really has a strong chemical smell that permeates my little house. Anyone else experience this?

I got my first buck back from the taxidermy man yesterday but always have trouble adding pictures and shrinking them to fit the sites requirements. Any help and I'll post pics. I also brought along my friends 12 year old along, he said it was better than going to a NY museum!!

What's a "celebrity spammer"? No offense, but the OP made it sound like someone trying to start his own personal "blog" within our forums. I'm a little confused about his presence and purpose. Or is it just someone trying to give basic knowledge.

Hey guys, do any of you have the conetrol scope mounts on one of your rifles? More importantly do you still have the printed instructions and could I get a copy? I've tried emailing the company in the past to no avail. I understand they lost their founder last year and with him all the knowledge of the nuances of the system. The have some "tricks" on their website but not the actual original printed instructions supplied with the mounts. Their site seems to indicate they are getting their act together but I haven't been able so far to get them on the phone. So, does anyone have a copy of the installation instructions they could send me? I took my mounts apart and am having a hard time getting them back together and with no idea how much to tighten them. Thanks, Jaeger I've also searched on line, but nothing there.

Oh I'll definitely be using a release. I am very susceptible to finger pinch and use a BW stick tite glove w/inserts on my stick bows. As far as going "haywire", I meant out of tune. My Hoyt had a flipper and plunger arrangement that was fairly stable (didn't require readjusting) but some of the guys I've seen with newer bows are constantly changing things around. I need something I can set up and leave it there. I do appreciate the advice about the draw motion and cams. My hoyt is a round wheel and the draw has one "bump" spot. The feel of that bump spot can be eliminated by drawing slowly so it's not so pronounced. That's the drawing feel I'm looking for. And yes, since it will not be my primary hunting bow, I do not want to spend a fortune (>~$500) on it. The big bucks are reserved for my stick bows. Thanks for the line on a lower priced range of Mathews bows, I'll see if a shop will let me try one but at 27" draw with a compound matching trial arrows (have some) to a shop bow may be a pain for them.

Well I've admitted that my old Hoyt Ram Hunter compound has given up the ghost and am in need of a new compound. My local shop is getting in a bunch of PSE Stingers and I wondered if any of you have opinions on this bow. Here's the deal, I shoot mostly longbows, I'm short and have a short drawlength. I am NOT a compound bow shooter, meaning I need a very stable bow, not some high end, super sensitive, laser shooting contraption that goes haywire if I even think badly of it. Would the stinger fit the bill?

Do keep in mind that your crossbow is also a legal implement during the regular season, good to know if you wish to hunt an extra week or so beyond your 2 week window.

Just picked up an old winchester model 92 in 25-20 for small game, pests and varmints. Only factory load is an 86 grain bullet at about 1400fps. A great and fun gun to shoot! But it has an interesting thing. 3 drilled and tapped holes on each side of the receiver forming a triangle. Can't figure out what they could have been for. The triangles are also not symetrical side-to-side. Any thoughts?

Yes and no. Depends on the type of "stainless" finish. Bright or brushed. I have an older win 70 classic stainless and its a frosted type finish that does not reflect light, looks sort of gray from a distance and in pictures although to me sitting with it in the woods, it does look kinda bright. Friends say it does not stand out at all. But my rossi stainless '92, that's a different story. It's bright highly polished stainless finish stands out like a beacon. My buddy said he could see it and track my path across the adjacent mountain up in the Adirondacks!! Looking to get that one coated.

My hunting partner has one and loves it. I was looking for one as well, but as you said they run high$$. One guy has a stash of them, but wants over $1400 new. Great find, good luck with it.

Neato! Similar to ballistics.com's site, they also have a recoil calculator that can compare two different loads or gun weights. But I really like the trajectory summary at the end of your post, looks perfect for cutting and taping to the gun stock. I usually tape mine on the left side just below the receiver.

My Tikka Lite compact in .308 weighs about 6 1/2 lbs with a little redfield scope on it. A dime driver with 165's. But at that light, it does come back with a little more authority than most people expect. Got "touched" above the eye with it when I had the 12 1/2" pad on it and a full length S&B scope. What does that ruger weigh?

Beachpeaz, If you wish to start him with a longbow, perhaps go to "Black Rhino" bows. Their website is very informative and they specialize exclusively in low draw weight longbows and equipment for children. Their longbows are specifically designed in overall length and draw lengths for children. I think they may have recently introduced a recurve as well. I purchased one of their 29# bows to practice my form. It is excellent quality. You can start him off with wood children's arrows, but quickly progress to thin carbons. Cheap wood arrows warp quickly and frustrate a child (and even adults) when the arrows fly inconsistently. Regardless of what you, or better he, chooses, be it compound, longbow or recurve, please give him a chance to get started off right with good quality, properly fitted equipment that will not cause frustration. It will pay off in the long run and allow both of you to enjoy yourselves. P.s., Just because a bow is a longbow, or recurve for that matter, it does not mean it is less expensive. Quality counts, a "less expensive longbow" is just as worthless and a frustration as a cheaply made less expensive compound.

Quick reply, Opening day, loaded down like a pack mule. -full pack with extra clothes mainly, big binocs., scents, food and coffee/water, gutting kit, etc. Closing day, practically naked. -small binocs, water, little knife and string.

I'm asking them if they can finish drilling and tapping the lock screw holes and drill the touch hole in line with the lock, after that I'm going to see if they'd help me finish the drawing of the barrel. Then, it'll be on to inletting the but plate and finishing the rust browning on the barrel and shaping, sanding and finishing the stock. I've obviously got a long way to go. People do not realize how much time goes into these guns when everything is done strictly by hand.