Would like to start Reloading ammunition?

[Landowner]

I would like to reload my own! For hunting I live in 3M. I would like to start out with the basics. The shots we make down here are 50 - 200 yards.

Should I buy a single stage or a progressive reloader?

Type of powder?

The rifles I would reload are .243, 260, 7MM-08 and a 7MM Mag and mabey 30-30.

Could I have your views.

Landowner

[fasteddie]

Personally , I prefer the single stage . I have a Lyman Turret Press and a Lee single Stage . I use both of them as a single stage .

* Caselube the brass

*** Resize the brass

* Tumble the brass

* Clean the primer pocket and chamfer the casemouth

* Weigh powder and pour

*** Seat the bullet

So I don't have a need to use a progressive reloader as I am using the press in 2 steps of my process .

I reload 223 , 25-06 , 270 , 308 and 44 mag with no problem . What I need for my reloading is Lock Rings

dor my dies .

[Pygmy]

I agree with Fasteddie that a single stage press is the way to go, unless you plan to load large amounts of ammo...

There are some pretty good starter kits out there by RCBS and other manufacturers...

When you get your dies and press and are ready to start, many of us will be available to suggest powder, appx. charges and projectiles

[Landowner]

I was thinking of buying a RCBS rock chucker. What brands of dies fit this model? What kind of scale should I buy? Any other info would be great. Brands and material.

Brian

[Pygmy]

It's hard to go wrong with a Rock Chucker...That's what I use and it's the press that other presses are compared to...

Most of my dies are RCBS, but I have a few Lyman..Never had any issues with either brand...

My powder scale is a Herter's...Just a simple beam balance type scale that I have had for nearly 40 years, but it still gets the job done..I'm sure that most of the scales made by RCBS, Lyman, Redding and others work fine..A lot of guys like digital scales, but I have never owned one myself.. Maybe someone else can elaborate about them...

I don't do a lot of case trimming, but when I do I use Lee case trimmers..If I were doing a lot of it I might look into one of the more expensive rotary types..

RCBS makes a handy little inside/outside chamfering tool...It's inexpensive and works well...

[jkzfixme]

I would disagree with the single stage only because I have had so much good luck with the Lee Turret press. 110 buys you almost everything you need to stat of minus the dies cases powder bullets primers and tumbler. http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=622290 If you decide to make it single stage you take out the indexer and its single. You decide to load 200 rounds and you have the progressive feature. I have recommended this kit to 5 other people and the only one who was not thrilled bought something else. You would be hard pressed to find a better performer or value.

BTW I am also in 3M if you need a word from the wise I would be happy to give it to you.

as far as the 30/30 reloading I have to say that I got some of the LeverEvolution bullets and have a better grouping than any 30/30 I have ever seen out to 200 yards. Because the are pointed and still manage not to blow off the other rounds in the tube they are sooo much more accurate than the standard rounds.

160 Grain FXP bullet (LeverEvolution)

29.5 Grain Varget

Laupa brass

CCI benchrest primers

[jim]

[table][tr][td][/td][td]I'm a member of the NAHC (pain in the neck org always trying to get you to buy their books and such, nice magazine though), anyway they have an on-line forum.  In the forum is the following post.  I can't vouch for it as I don't reload, but I thought it was informative.

Originally posted by: JudeinPa on 2/27/2006 6:55:19 AM

BASIC RELOADER RULES & REQUIREMENTS

By Mike D Woolum

1. Do you have the patience to do detailed work away from distractions, (TV, Children, guests)?

2. Do you have a secure area that can be dedicated strictly to a loading bench?

3. Do you thoroughly understand what goes on inside a cartridge when you pull the trigger?

4.  Are you mechanically inclined? In other words can you understand and  follow instructions exactly, to make needed adjustments to equipment?  Do know how to use measurement tools such as calipers and micrometers?

5.  Read the front sections of several reloading manuals. I suggest one  manual, printed by a company that sells reloading equipment AND  bullets. The other one should be by a company that sells only powder.  Case in point Hornady then Hodgdon. After reading and understanding the  “HOW TO†section in those manuals, find someone who already loads  to show you how and talk you through a box of shells. Better yet find a  NRA Metallic/Shotshell Reloading instructor and take a basic reloading  class. See links below for locating an instructor.

6. Never be in a hurry. If you are pressed for time, this is when a mistake will be made.

7.  Do not under any circumstances smoke, eat or drink, especially  alcoholic beverages. The reasons are obvious, but I’ll state them  anyway. Smokeless powder burns at a very high temperature; it makes a  dandy accelerant to start a fire. Drinking causes loss of motor skills  and judgment.

8. Wash hands thoroughly when you are through. You are dealing with lead in many forms when handling bullets and primers.

9.  Walk before you run. Buy a single stage press to start out with. The  progressives are neat and useful when doing large quantities of ammo.  You will always have uses for the single stage loader for special loads  later.

10. Stay with the basics at first. The tools for neck  turning, flash hole uniforming, primer pocket uniforming and checking  concentricity will be useful after you get some experience.

11. To  start with, stay in the mid-range of the suggested loads for medium  power levels. Save the maximum loads for when you have more experience.

12. Buy the best equipment you can afford. It will last a lifetime; the cheap stuff will wear out and need replacing.

13.  Have ONLY the bullets, powder, primers and empties on the table that  you are loading at that time. Put everything away as soon as you are  done, in a separate place.

14. The only stupid question is one that  doesn’t get asked. If you’re not sure, ask somebody. Use common  sense, logic is a great tool for a Reloader.

15. Maintain a log of all loads developed with the test results. Label all boxes with the load data and date of the load.

16. Every Step is an inspection point.

17. The last thing you do before the bullet goes in " Look in every case to verify the powder charge".

18.  There are no shortcuts! What we mean is; there is no "one load" that  works best in any one individual rifle. Load development is an  experimental process with the components you choose. By working  carefully and keeping good written records you will develop the needed  experience that will be useful to your future efforts.

Links for Reloading help and instructors

http://www.sierrabullets.com/ Bullet company, very good  ballistic support group.

http://www.speer-bullets.com Bullet company

http://www.nosler.com/ Bullet company

http://www.hornady.com/ Bullet company

http://www.barnesbullets.com Bullet company

http://www.hodgdon.com Powder company

http://www.lapua.com VihtaVuori Powders

http://www.bluepress.com Dillon Loaders

http://www.mayvl.com/ Mec loaders

http://ww.sinclairintl.com/ Precision Reloading and Shooting specialist

http://www.lymanproducts.com All Lyman Products.

http://www.shooting-hunting.com Great hunting and shooting site with list of instructors

http://www.mynra.com/ NRA with links to NRA certified instructors

Basic steps to reloading. This is a  short edited version from the "NRA GUIDE TO RELOADING".

There are 17 steps of which most are for both rifle and pistol and one for pistol only. This is marked with an * .

• 1. Inspect cases,
  
• 2. Clean Cases
  
• 3.Organize cases by batchs
  
• 4.Select proper shell holder
  
• 5.Insert and set up sizing die
  
• 6. Lubricate cases
  
• 7.Resize and deprime cases
  
• 8. Measure case length
  
• 9.Trim cases
  
• 10 Deburr and Chamfering
  
• 11.Clean Primer Pocket
  
• 12.Expand Case mouth (*)
  
• 13.Prime Cases
  
• 14.Measure powder chargeand charge cases
  
• 15.Check powder charge in case
  
• 16.Seat bullet in case
  
• 17. Identify the reloaded cartridges (Mark the box etc.)
  

================================================

Here are some links to help out with locating supplies for all your reloading needs.

http://www.grafs.com/ Graf & Sons

http://www.lockstock.com/ Lock, Stock, and Barrel

http://www.midwayusa.com/ Midway

http://www.powdervalleyinc.com/ Powder Valley, Inc.

http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/ Midsouth Shooters Supply

http://www.loadammo.com/ Load From A Disk

http://www.neconos.com/ Neco (QuickLOAD)

Powder info:

http://www.accuratepowder.com/ Accurate Arms

http://www.alliantpowder.com/ Alliant Powders

http://www.hodgdon.com/ Hodgdon Powders

http://www.imrpowder.com/ IMR Powders

http://www.ramshot.com/powders/ Ramshot Powders

http://www.gibrass.com/gunpowder.html GI Brass Jeff Bartlett

Judehttp://forums.huntingclub.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_wink.gif[/img]<!--graemlin:-->[/td]  [/tr]  [tr]  [td][/td][td]

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[jkzfixme]

I would agree with almost all of that , most notably having a dedicated log book. There are so many variables that you can easily loose track even working on one caliber at a time. I also tape targets in the book after shooting so I have a reference point while developing optimal powder / COL

[jkzfixme]

BTW here is a great article on the Lee Turret press I recomended

http://www.realguns.com/archives/122.htm

[Pygmy]

God info, Jim...

I heartily agree that it is important to keep a log..I certainly could not function without mine... I also mark evrything as well as I can..I label each box of handloads with load info.. Trust nothing to memory...

[bubba]

starting out, I would strongly suggest a single stage press.  There is much less chance of messing up when you do one step at a time then move on.  That being said I now have a lee challeger press I use to deprime and pull bullets when needed. I use a lee turret press for the other steps now. I still do each step to each case before i move on.  In other words I deprime all then size all the prime all, the tumble all.  Then I powder them all and seat the bullet.  I would suggest if anything get a good scale.  I have all lee equipment with the exception of some dies which are rcbs.  However my scale is a Lyman dps.  it is electronic. I program in the load it dumps and weighs the charge. It saves time and is very accurate.  I load for 25-06,7-08 300 savage 30-30 30-06 357 38 special 308 and 270.  I can not remember the last tiem I bought a factory cartridge. 

[wellsley]

I have a Lyman single stage press, Lyman powder scale, RCBS powder measurer, Foster powder trickler, Lyman case trimmer, Foster bullet puller (ruins the bullet) RCBS bullet puller (hammer style) Lyman dies and RCBS dies, Lee case lube (wax base not grease) auto priming tube, RCBS dial calipers, assorted other accessories that I haven't thought of.

I reload

270 win.

30-06

222 rem.

22-250

35 rem

38 special

357 magnam

40 cal. auto

44 mag.

[Fantail]

God info, Jim...

I heartily agree that it is important to keep a log..I certainly could not function without mine... I also mark evrything as well as I can..I label each box of handloads with load info.. Trust nothing to memory...

Yes comes into play, I like neck sizing dies and even with mild loads after so many I pinch the brass so to not over use them and risk a brittle cartridge.

[eagle rider]

I use a single stage Lee Breach Lock press.  I load 270 Win and WSM and 25-06. 

[jusputtn]

@ Wellsley

Have you seen RCBS Universal Decapping Die?  Works in any press, easy to use and saves the bullet.

@ Landowner

Most dies are 7/8" dia. with a universal thread. I've used Lyman and RCBS dies in Lee and Dillon presses.

The Rockchucker is a good solid press from what I've heard about it.  Haven't used one myself. 

On the single vs progressive.  Singles are simpler to learn with and many people use them exclusively for rifles rounds even if they have a progressive, which they'll use for pistol.  You'll also have to lay out less cash for a single while you feel out the waters of reloading, not to mention with buying accessories to reloading different cartridge types.  I'm the odd man of the lot as I'm going to start using my progressive press for rifle as well.  (Motivated by my buddy wanting to get back into reloading.  Hey, he let me use his Lee Turret for close to 20 years for free.) 

[doulos]

I would like to reload my own! For hunting I live in 3M. I would like to start out with the basics. The shots we make down here are 50 - 200 yards.

Should I buy a single stage or a progressive reloader?

Type of powder?

The rifles I would reload are .243, 260, 7MM-08 and a 7MM Mag and mabey 30-30.

Could I have your views.

Landowner

]

Welcome to the world of handloading

If you are reloading those calibers I strongly suggest a single stage press.  I own all 3 types a single stage, a turret, and a progressive.

A single stage is the way to learn. Allthough a turret would be fine also.  A turret is really not much faster than a single stage once especially if you use Hornady Lock n load or lee bushings that enable you to quickly change dies.  With a turret you can set up 2 pistol calibers in the head and just leave them. Both RCBS, and Lyman make nice turrets and you can but extra turret heads and just leave your dies set up in them. Redding and Lee also make turret presses. IMO the Redding is the best but also the most expensive turret. All of those companies also make good single stage presses. As far as dies any 7/8 die of any manufacture will be interchangable.  I have RCBS, Lyman, Redding and Dillon and have no complaints.

As far as progressives Hornady and Dillon seem to be the popular choices. I use my Dillon progressive for pistol ammo only. It is for high capacity reloading and not the best choice for someone just getting in to reloading.  I dont believe a progressive is a good starting point.

      My advice is to get the best stuff you can afford. I still have equpment I bought 30 years ago.

Dont scrimp on your scale either. Start out with a good mecahnical scale. I have a Dillon Eliminator I like alot(about 55 bucks). Rcbs also makes The models 505,502 and the top of the line 1010 balance beam scale. IMO the best scales are all manufactured by a company called Ohaus for the reloading equipment industry.

      Electronic scales are fine but they sometimes dont last and are sensitive to temperature and humidity and break easily if they get accidently dropped. They are only usually warranted for a year while the other scales Ive mentioned have a lifetime warranty.

I use both electronic and mechanical but the mechanical is more fool proof.

      Also while the internet provides great access to the powder companies reloading data you should pick up a copy of Lyman's reloading manual the 49th Edition. You can learn alot about reloading from Lyman's publication.

Allways have more than 1 source for load data.

Go to Midway's web site and you can see alot of comments by users of alot of reloading equipment.

As far as suppliers Ive used and ordered stuff through Midway, Midsouth, Grafs, Weidners, Cabela's and my Dillon stuff directly through them.

Have fun. Concentrate on what your doing. It is a great and enjoyable hobby