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for deer or human? plant spring. be sure to prune properly first few years. should even fence them in till they can handle the damage a deer can do. i would say the cheaper the tree the better as i dont believe deer are picky.

 

but if you really want to suck them in, pears are where it's at. But look at what's planted near you. Give them something they dont have hundreds of acres of access to already.

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Being as far North as you are...I'd say spring..but I don't know your weather well...around here what you'd be planting in most cases is a potted tree and now is a great time...never dwarf...but semi is good and I prefer the late apples and yellows as far as deer are concerned....

 

(sp)

Edited by growalot
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I have succesfully planted Apples, Cherries and  a Peach tree in my back yard in the last couple years.  When i say succesfully, I learned the hard way and it took me a couple attempts.  They are FINALLY going good.   Things I can tell you for sure that are SUPER important (that I overlooked and killed my trees):

 

1) SOME varieties are not hardy enough for our region so they actually graft the tree onto the root stock of another tree that is hardy.  AVOID grafted trees at all cost.  The failure rate is through the roof (first mistake I made)

 

2) Spend the extra money on a more mature tree (not saying a giant tree, but don't by the tiny one on sale for $50).  Most of the issues the trees have are the first few years.  Buying a tree that is already somewhat established will save you a ton of headaches (second mistake i made).

 

3) Protect your trees from Deer AND RABBITS.  I was stupid enough not to spend $0.99 cents on the plastic wrap that goes around the base of the tree.  A rabbit promptly chewed the bark all the way around the base and killed my tree (third mistake I made).

 

and yes, learn to prune them, it is very important for the health of the tree.

 

I NOW have very health trees growing, but that only due to learning from my 3 mistakes above and replanting trees twice now! 

 

Good luck.

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I have succesfully planted Apples, Cherries and  a Peach tree in my back yard in the last couple years.  When i say succesfully, I learned the hard way and it took me a couple attempts.  They are FINALLY going good.   Things I can tell you for sure that are SUPER important (that I overlooked and killed my trees):

 

1) SOME varieties are not hardy enough for our region so they actually graft the tree onto the root stock of another tree that is hardy.  AVOID grafted trees at all cost.  The failure rate is through the roof (first mistake I made)

 

2) Spend the extra money on a more mature tree (not saying a giant tree, but don't by the tiny one on sale for $50).  Most of the issues the trees have are the first few years.  Buying a tree that is already somewhat established will save you a ton of headaches (second mistake i made).

 

3) Protect your trees from Deer AND RABBITS.  I was stupid enough not to spend $0.99 cents on the plastic wrap that goes around the base of the tree.  A rabbit promptly chewed the bark all the way around the base and killed my tree (third mistake I made).

 

and yes, learn to prune them, it is very important for the health of the tree.

 

I NOW have very health trees growing, but that only due to learning from my 3 mistakes above and replanting trees twice now! 

 

Good luck.

50+ bucks for a tree?!? ive seen multiple members on here buying them in the $10-$20 range

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50+ bucks for a tree?!? ive seen multiple members on here buying them in the $10-$20 range

 

Thats a chance you take!  I'm just telling you my experience.  for $10 - $20 you can be buying a baby tree that could take 10-15 years to mature to fruit.  You could be buying a grafted tree that has about a 20% success rate.  Just be CAREFUL!

 

I am so tired of digging up and planting new trees, that I spent the money and bought good matures trees that wern't grafted.  They are SUPER healthy and even though they are still small, I picked almost 50 apples off of them this year (and if you saw the size of them you would realize that is a great yield).

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Joe I have a lot of apple tree experience....  and myself and a friend are actually working on an article on this very topic.  

 

 

There is a ton to it, but anyone with the drive can do it.    You need to get the correct rootstock and variety of apple first and foremost.   Look for b118, 111, or emla7 rootstocks.    You can have apples the first or second year, but you shouldn't let the tree bear fruit as it needs to devote energy to roots and wood.   You want the tree to grow as quickly as possible.

 

We have not formulated our Spring Field Day for 2014 yet, but there is a chance we would do a apple tree seminar.

 

I would be willing to share more, but time is little tight.

 

Here is a enterprise on b118 planted 4 years ago,  stacked, window screen, and fenced.

DSCN2658.jpg

 

Here is that same tree this year, just a few weeks ago.

20130902_160617_zpsa8e01020.jpg

 

After rootstock, variety is very important.  You want disease resistant trees.   Liberty, Enterprise, Goldrush, are good starters.   Good Luck and email me if you want to bounce ideas around.

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size of fruit and drop/maturation are factors as well. a wolf river variety is huge 2 lbs or more per apple deer cant get them in their mouths. small varieties winesap are much more edible. you can find early mid and late bearing apple varieties on line and thru national arbor association, I recommend getting your information there but buying localy as trees have adapted to your zone by growing there.

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You need to buy your fruit trees from a reputable apple nursery.  Often local trees at walmart, lowes, your local nursery are on b9 a short tree that will produce early but not gain enough growth for the intent of adding wildlife value.

 

The more trees you buy the price goes down.   I like adams county nursery and generally buy 100  trees  a year and spread savings onto my friends.

 

For small orders expect to pay 30 a tree plus shipping, buy in quantity and it gets close to 15  a tree plus shipping. 

 

 

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Don't over look the local wild apples..I mostly have those on our place and several..all unknown... varieties...some drop in August...and some well into Oct...some are annual producers(which I find unusual in wilds) and some semi annual...and some are bearing at very young ages...these are whips I find from seed animals bury...the reds are the early  drops and semi annuals...long 5+ yrs. to production...the yellows are the young producing annual heavy mast trees...when scouting the area look for whips..pick those close to the best trees with the characteristics you are looking for...

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  • 1 month later...

We have a 150 tree home orchard. Rootstocks m106, 111 and b118 are best. Get disease resistant apples. Waflers in Wolcott sells deer packs at 10 for $150. They'll be 2 year trees, averaging 6-7' tall and will bear the 2nd or third year. Bill Pitts is the guy, he's a hunter so he knows what he's doing. I buy 10 every year in establishing my "other wild orchard". Killed a doe in bow season under my 3 year old producing Rome tree.

Get mouse guards and tree tubes, trust me!

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