dbHunterNY Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 So there's lots one can do to mount a scope well. You can use a torque screw driver to tighten mount screws evenly. You can use non-permanent thread lock to keep screws from loosening. Use torx head screws that don't strip easy and good grip on the head. Probably least common though is using alignment tools and lapping the scope rings for perfect alignment and max grip. Im curious. Any of you do this stuff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lawdwaz Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 I've never done any of it. Just snug the bases and ring screws down firmly but not farmer tight. Nothing ever came loose and I've mounted plenty of bases/rings and scopes. Yet.........!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjb4900 Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 I always use locktight and just recently bought a torque wrench....as far as alignment, I put an old scope in the rings when I tighten up the the rings and bases, then I put in the new scope......that being said, I never did any of that for the longest time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr VJP Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 (edited) Hex type or torx head screws are a good idea as they don't strip easily. Other than that, the alignment tool is good for twist in rings, but any good 1 inch pipe will work well. Unless you're a perfectionist, really not needed for hunting accuracy. You'd have to be pretty far off to bend a scope, and you'd see it when you put the scope in the rings. A bench rest shooter may want to use everything he can to eliminate any variables, but a hunter need not worry so much. Just be sure the scope is snug enough not to move when the rifle is fired and the screws stay tight. P.S. Using a level to make sure the scope is level with the action is a good idea. It does effect long range shots if it's off. Edited June 14, 2014 by Mr VJP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 So there's lots one can do to mount a scope well. You can use a torque screw driver to tighten mount screws evenly. You can use non-permanent thread lock to keep screws from loosening. Use torx head screws that don't strip easy and good grip on the head. Probably least common though is using alignment tools and lapping the scope rings for perfect alignment and max grip. Im curious. Any of you do this stuff? I do it all. Why, just because that is how I learned, and if you are gonna do it, might as well be right. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adkbuck Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 dbHunterNY, Your post brings up a very good question. Because I am very detail oriented when it come to long range shooting I have lapped the rings on all my center fire rifle scopes to insure maximum contact of the bottom ring. You only need to do it to the bottom ring to get a rock solid mount. A short Midway video shows why its a good idea: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XWv7SiBheV0 For my shotgun slug guns and muzzleloaders I have been using Warne weaver type rings these ring don't lend themselves to lapping but are sufficiently well machined that I seem to get a solid grip on the scope. I notice from year to year during sight-in that the zero on the lapped scopes changes less. You have the most control to insure a tight rock solid mount with intimate mechanical contact when you lap. When you don't lap you are at the mercy of the ring manufacturers and to a certain degree to the scope tube manufacturer. I use the non-permanent Loctite that you mentioned for locking in the bases. I agree that torx head screws are very good although hex socket head screws work well as long as the hex tip of your screw driver is made of good steel. In this regard, I found a good gunsmith screwdriver kit is well worth the investment. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thphm Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 Lapping the rings is not just for holding power,it is also done to keep from distorting the OD. of the scope.Which in turn will throw off the optics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ants Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 I've mounted a lot of scopes. Never used a torque screw driver. Just use a little lock tight (blue not red) & you will be fine. Dove tail rings should be aligned. There are tools for this but I just use a 1" dowel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adkbuck Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 (edited) Lapping the rings is not just for holding power,it is also done to keep from distorting the OD. of the scope.Which in turn will throw off the optics. Yes, very good point. Edited June 14, 2014 by adkbuck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lawdwaz Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 dbHunterNY, A short Midway video shows why its a good idea: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XWv7SiBheV0 Do you think Midway has a vested interest in selling all these scope mounting tools? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 dbHunterNY, Your post brings up a very good question. Because I am very detail oriented when it come to long range shooting I have lapped the rings on all my center fire rifle scopes to insure maximum contact of the bottom ring. You only need to do it to the bottom ring to get a rock solid mount. A short Midway video shows why its a good idea: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XWv7SiBheV0 For my shotgun slug guns and muzzleloaders I have been using Warne weaver type rings these ring don't lend themselves to lapping but are sufficiently well machined that I seem to get a solid grip on the scope. I notice from year to year during sight-in that the zero on the lapped scopes changes less. You have the most control to insure a tight rock solid mount with intimate mechanical contact when you lap. When you don't lap you are at the mercy of the ring manufacturers and to a certain degree to the scope tube manufacturer. I use the non-permanent Loctite that you mentioned for locking in the bases. I agree that torx head screws are very good although hex socket head screws work well as long as the hex tip of your screw driver is made of good steel. In this regard, I found a good gunsmith screwdriver kit is well worth the investment. Warne rings are great. Have them on my Muzzy and slug gun as well. They are rock solid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 Hex type or torx head screws are a good idea as they don't strip easily. Other than that, the alignment tool is good for twist in rings, but any good 1 inch pipe will work well. Unless you're a perfectionist, really not needed for hunting accuracy. You'd have to be pretty far off to bend a scope, and you'd see it when you put the scope in the rings. A bench rest shooter may want to use everything he can to eliminate any variables, but a hunter need not worry so much. Just be sure the scope is snug enough not to move when the rifle is fired and the screws stay tight. P.S. Using a level to make sure the scope is level with the action is a good idea. It does effect long range shots if it's off. Perfectionist, yeah that is me. I need, have to have, the smallest groups possible. I don't even know why, but getting there is fun. Question about the level though. If you mount the scope and the elevation settings are close to the middle of the scopes range, is it not level? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adkbuck Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 (edited) Perfectionist, yeah that is me. I need, have to have, the smallest groups possible. I don't even know why, but getting there is fun. Question about the level though. If you mount the scope and the elevation settings are close to the middle of the scopes range, is it not level? Ford, Sounds like you do a good job with installing your optics. I agree its all fun and a good challenge. I have used shims a few times when I could not mount the scope without going near the maximum and minimum elevation settings. The addition of the shims got me back to the center region of the scopes adjustment range. For convenience I use ready made shims made by Hart Barrels. Their barrels are more than I can afford but their shims are just a few cents each. The worst problem I ever had with a mounting a scope was mounting one on a misaligned cantilever shotgun barrel. The cantilever ramp was so badly out of parallelism that the scope, even with several thick shims was in the stops of its elevation setting and still would not zero. I returned the cantilever barrel to the manufacturer, they agreed and replaced the barrel. Edited June 15, 2014 by adkbuck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbHunterNY Posted June 16, 2014 Author Share Posted June 16, 2014 Do you think Midway has a vested interest in selling all these scope mounting tools? yup but it's most definitely a good idea. so it's something I'd do anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbHunterNY Posted June 16, 2014 Author Share Posted June 16, 2014 I do everything but lap rings right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zem18 Posted June 16, 2014 Share Posted June 16, 2014 Do you think Midway has a vested interest in selling all these scope mounting tools? I'm Larry Potterfield, and Thanks for your business - except NYers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.