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Broadhead help...


zeus1gdsm
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It's basically exactly 90*. Dec states must be 90* or more.

How's the rest look?

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The rest looks good in elevation. The windage looks off against the sight, but that could just be the picture.

Based on your shots, I would say it needs to a tad over to the left(looking from back of bow).

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Your BHs are okay. Photo by other member with those swept back blades looks questionable (legally).

 

Not criticizing, but Dude, you're chasing your tail & creating more problems for yourself when you keep moving the Whisker Biscuit to get clearance for your BHs!! Get that straightened out at your bow shop by paper tuning and then begin the sight housing and pin adjustments. This needs to be a step by step process, never going back to readjusting the arrow rest to compensate for any clearance issues. Know you don't want to hear this but your clearance issue with BHs is from too short an arrow. Changing your BHs per their design is a band-aid fix.

 

BTW - A web search or browsing arrow mfger's websites could tell you a lot more about arrow construction, spline weight and suggested BH wgts. If I recall, most have charts of suggested BH weights per arrow length & spline.

 

I'm full of bad news, huh? LOL

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Your BHs are okay. Photo by other member with those swept back blades looks questionable (legally).

Not criticizing, but Dude, you're chasing your tail & creating more problems for yourself when you keep moving the Whisker Biscuit to get clearance for your BHs!! Get that straightened out at your bow shop by paper tuning and then begin the sight housing and pin adjustments. This needs to be a step by step process, never going back to readjusting the arrow rest to compensate for any clearance issues. Know you don't want to hear this but your clearance issue with BHs is from too short an arrow. Changing your BHs per their design is a band-aid fix.

BTW - A web search or browsing arrow mfger's websites could tell you a lot more about arrow construction, spline weight and suggested BH wgts. If I recall, most have charts of suggested BH weights per arrow length & spline.

I'm full of bad news, huh? LOL

No longer adjusting the rest for clearance for the broadheads..... Honestly I'm done with the ramcats... I Dont like the mechanical design... I'm sure I got a bad batch. But it's soured me nonetheless with a blade falling off on the first shot.

I know that longer arrows are needed to clear a larger diameter broadhead. Just isn't in the wallet.

Thanks for the go ahead on the smaller Bhs.

I appreciate the input. Just don't have anymore cash to sink into this for a while. I'm sure the local shops will charge me to "tune". When im feel i can do the majority of it with a small level and square and trial and error. Not as well as someone with years of experience. But everyone has to start somewhere.... I'm a break it, take it apart and fix it kind of guy. Except small engines... I stay away from small engines.

To me my field points are as dialed as they can be with my bad vision and I'm sure the groups will improve with time and practice of form.

So should I move my sight (micro adjustments to the right) to move the poi for the Bhs to the left? Or just a micro adjustment of the rest to the left?.

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Edited by zeus1gdsm
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The rule of thumb phrase is chasing the arrow. If your groups are to the right and down, move the entire sight pin housing to the right and down (micro adjustments?). Until your groups become centered around the bullseye, consistently. This is your only & last chance to make adjustments for L-R deviations for most models of sights. Individual pins are then adjusted for elevation (up-down) only and to specific yardages.

 

Down the road.....I'm not a big fan of fixed blade BHs with replaceable blades. Rather go with one (ie; G5 Montec) that is a one piece design and I can resharpen it myself. Lots of other great BHs on the market! All fixed BHs need to have the sights tweaked when switching from FP to BH. Mechanical BHs are a completely different scenario. They typically don't need as much tweaking as the fixed blade BHs do! Mechanical BHs do have their own set of issues!

 

Hang in there dude, you're getting there!! Overwhelmed yet? lol

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Yes it is overwhelming lol.

I checked the rates for the arrow. Looks like 100grain is right where I need to be weight wise.

This old sigh has major windage adjustment. And then minor or micro adjustments. Then a decent elevation adjustment. And then pin elevation adjustment.

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This old sigh has major windage adjustment. And then minor or micro adjustments. Then a decent elevation adjustment. And then pin elevation adjustment.

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These are the adjustments for the entire housing, which you adj towards where your groups are. Then the pin is only for elev or up/dwn adj for yardage variations.

 

Don't get frustrated. Not something you're likely to get completed in a single day. The more you force it and the more you shot, the more inconsistent you'll become. Making any adjustments at that point non-productive. Better to walk away & come back later!

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Your BHs are okay. Photo by other member with those swept back blades looks questionable (legally).

Not criticizing, but Dude, you're chasing your tail & creating more problems for yourself when you keep moving the Whisker Biscuit to get clearance for your BHs!! Get that straightened out at your bow shop by paper tuning and then begin the sight housing and pin adjustments. This needs to be a step by step process, never going back to readjusting the arrow rest to compensate for any clearance issues. Know you don't want to hear this but your clearance issue with BHs is from too short an arrow. Changing your BHs per their design is a band-aid fix.

BTW - A web search or browsing arrow mfger's websites could tell you a lot more about arrow construction, spline weight and suggested BH wgts. If I recall, most have charts of suggested BH weights per arrow length & spline.

I'm full of bad news, huh? LOL

The ramcats are legal in NY. " Broadheads with retractable blades are legal. Broadheads with mechanical blades are legal if the blades DO NOT form a barb or hook when the arrow is pulled from the flesh of a deer or bear." Think about the ever so popular 2 blade rage, when deployed it forms a "barb" but when pulled back out the blades fold forward, same as Ramcat. I checked with DEC on this and was told I was good to go.

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post-2523-14439075108856_thumb.jpg

Arrows are penetrating well.

post-2523-14439075650542_thumb.jpg

20 yards broadheads.

30 yards aren't so hot more like a 10 inch group.. Mostly due to me I'd guess.

I'm going to restrict myself to 20 yard shots for the season. Then get a new sight and set of hunting arrows for next season. I'll have the shop tune accordingly.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just wanted to update this.... I took the bow in for a tune. Including paper and a new biscuit....

Omgosh what a difference!!!!!

Had him max the draw.weight.

Paper test is about as perfect as it gets.

Not only is she quieter. But she's drilling nails.

100 grain muzzy are dead on. Field points are a little left of center.

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sounds like you're good.  was out of the country when the party in here was going on.  125gr heads are a tad much for your setup with respect to arrow spine.  I like Easton tuning charts.  they don't leave much to assume.  good luck this season.  i'm in the capital region otherwise i'd help you with bow stuff.

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