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New to Fly fishing


Zem18
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So I picked up a low budget fly rod last year and attempted to fish with it once at a bass pond I frequent regularly. It's wide open all around it so I figured I'd try it. I watched quite a few videos on casting but haven't caught it just right yet. I had a cork bass popper on and ending up having a largemouth come up and take it off the surface but I had too much slack and couldn't set the hook. It was an experience but I want to do and learn more.

How did you learn to cast or what technique do you use? Any suggestions for the newbie? Unfortunately there were no fly fisherman in my family growing up. Hopefully this getting older dog can learn the trick to it.

Also, I know fly selection is key as the year progresses. Where you taught what to use by someone or did you read up on it. What publications did you read that helped you if any? Any insight is appreciated.

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There's a shop in California that will send you a free mag 2 times a year it's called "the fly shop" they have every pattern you can think of in it and little articles on different techniques in it. I started 3 years ago and went straight to tying my own flies and got alot of info from a guy I worked with that was vice president of Trout unlimited for a number of years back in time... he always told me to read the river....just stand there and look for something to float by then try and mimic it as close as you can.....it's alot of fun but extremely frustrating at times when you start to lose flies. I like to use clouser minnows for bass and strip back to me upstream. If fishing still water a foam grasshopper or Beatle works good again just using a Lil action to move it to get ripples.

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It's a short process between ten and two, closer to ten than two! In other words the rod should t move very far at all, do not break your wrist, and slow down. Feel the rod load, bring it forward, and stop and let it "fire" that line just like a bow firing. Remember, ten to two on the clock face. Don't drop it behind you and don't let that rod tip get anywhere near parallel to the water

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It's a short process between ten and two, closer to ten than two! In other words the rod should t move very far at all, do not break your wrist, and slow down. Feel the rod load, bring it forward, and stop and let it "fire" that line just like a bow firing. Remember, ten to two on the clock face. Don't drop it behind you and don't let that rod tip get anywhere near parallel to the water

IIRC the guy who taught me also pointed out it was like sliding your elbow forward and backward on a table without flicking wrist

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If you're trout fishing in NY you can do it with just a handful of flies. Some pheasant tail and hares ear nymphs, elk hair caddis, comparaduns, and some ants and beetles will catch every trout in the state from spring to fall

Add Wooly Buggers, stone fly nymphs & Goddard Caddis. (easy to see) I catch 90% of my trout on those 3.

 

 

Stimulators work good after the stone flies hatch & grasshoppers are about. Late in the season (Sept) sofa pillows can produce.

 

Most guys I watch trying to learn work the cast too fast. You want to give the line time to straighten out before you start your forward & back cast. That will load the rod better & give you more power. A 4-count works well to get the timing right.

 

Keep the slack mended & your rod tip low when anticipating the strike. Give the fish time to turn down before raising the rod to set the hook.

 

The $60ish Scientific Anglers combos Wally World used to sell were some pretty nice balanced outfits. Either the Trout or Panfish combos were good. The only difference between them was the flies which were crap anyway. I bought one for a back-up 4-piece rod.

Edited by wildcat junkie
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It's an 8ft #5/6 fly line so this would be a 5 or 6 weight correct? I'm learning the terminology as well. Again, I was curious so I got the rod and reel combo (Shakespeare) at my Dad's neighbors garage sale for a steal. If I get better and into, then I can make the investment.

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It's an 8ft #5/6 fly line so this would be a 5 or 6 weight correct? I'm learning the terminology as well. Again, I was curious so I got the rod and reel combo (Shakespeare) at my Dad's neighbors garage sale for a steal. If I get better and into, then I can make the investment.

If you replace the line go W/a 6wgt weight forward line. Always best to err on the heavy side when in doubt. A 5 or 6wgt outfit is a good starting point.

 

It's the weight of the line that makes the leader turn over & present the fly W/O a lot of slack. The bigger the fly, the heavier line you need to overcome wind resistance.

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It's an 8ft #5/6 fly line so this would be a 5 or 6 weight correct? I'm learning the terminology as well. Again, I was curious so I got the rod and reel combo (Shakespeare) at my Dad's neighbors garage sale for a steal. If I get better and into, then I can make the investment.

thats a great weight to learn to cast. Like WJ said go slow, let that rod load
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I'm new to fly fishing too. Last year for a birthday present, my wife bought me a 5wt.Orvis combo. Been wanting to learn for a long time, but just like Zem, I don't know anyone who fly fishes. I have practiced many hours in the back yard and a couple of unsuccessful trips to local water. So I too will benifit from the posts above. A book that came with my combo has been a huge help getting started, so it's worth picking up. It can't possibly replace having an experienced fly fishermen show you the ropes. But it has a bunch of good stuff for beginners.

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I have been fly fishing for over twenty years, so I am an expert.

 

Um, not. lol.

 

While I have been fly fishing for over 20 years, just usually a few times a year. I have caught some nice fish though. Some nice brookie's in Adirondack ponds, to some bass in my ponds.

 

One thing I will have to say though, is I cast unbelievably better with the Orvis rod, than some of the other cheaper stuff.

 

I always catch trees. That is a problem, lol.

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I'm new to fly fishing too. Last year for a birthday present, my wife bought me a 5wt.Orvis combo. Been wanting to learn for a long time, but just like Zem, I don't know anyone who fly fishes. I have practiced many hours in the back yard and a couple of unsuccessful trips to local water. So I too will benifit from the posts above. A book that came with my combo has been a huge help getting started, so it's worth picking up. It can't possibly replace having an experienced fly fishermen show you the ropes. But it has a bunch of good stuff for beginners.

Early season flyfishing is mostly W/nymphs.

 

Nymph fishing is a lot like drifting worms, in pocket water it can be a very short distance thing too. The main thing is to keep as much of your line out of faster/slower currents as you can. This will allow a natural drift through the feeding lanes of the trout. A poly-pro yarn strike indicator can help you see the line stop or twitch when a trout takes the nymph. Raise the rod @ any pause or twitch of the line.

 

Use enough weight to keep your nymph just off the bottom. If you aren't getting hung up occasionally, you aren't getting deep enough.

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Early season flyfishing is mostly W/nymphs.

Nymph fishing is a lot like drifting worms, in pocket water it can be a very short distance thing too. The main thing is to keep as much of your line out of faster/slower currents as you can. This will allow a natural drift through the feeding lanes of the trout. A poly-pro yarn strike indicator can help you see the line stop or twitch when a trout takes the nymph. Raise the rod @ any pause or twitch of the line.

Use enough weight to keep your nymph just off the bottom. If you aren't getting hung up occasionally, you aren't getting deep enough.

Do all this. Don't keep lead shot in your mouth to keep changing amounts like I used to. It causes typos
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Large bulky flys are the worst to try an learn with. I would actually practice in your back yard. The old timer that taught me never let me near the water for 4 outings. leave the leader off and just practice with the weight forward line. if you get to the point you can lay out a straight line on the ground gently and with no coiling, then you are ready for a leader and fly and some water. It should be like a big horizontal U that is unrolling onto the water. This will also give you a very good feeling of your effective range. Most new fly fisherman keep trying to go for that really LONNNNNNNNNG cast like they have spinning tackle. fly fishing is more like pitching for bass or spot and stalk hunting. 

I agree  with the 10-2  and the last aiming forward motion generally is an accelerating motion with the rod finishing horizontal and pointed at your target spot. 

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Kelly Gallop gives a pretty good fly casting presentation on You Tube.

Don't get to caught up about not catching a few fish as you begin to learn how to fly cast including what and how many flies to buy.

Join a local flyfishing club like Trout Unlimited if you have one nearby. They are always looking for new members to join.

If you have a little extra money you could hire a flyfishing guide for a day and explain to him what you would like to learn.

Hope this helps and remember practice and practice some more.

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. Most new fly fisherman keep trying to go for that really LONNNNNNNNNG cast like they have spinning tackle. fly fishing is more like pitching for bass or spot and stalk hunting. 

 

On pocket water, I tend to equate flyfishing W/"glorified cane pole fishing".

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