Height for windows in raised deer blind?

[UpStateRedNeck]

In the process of building a raised box blind, base will be ~10 feet off the ground, 4x6.  Nothing super crazy, just trying to make it tight against squirrels and the elements.  

It seems like 39" is about right for the windows?  Maybe a shade lower?  Anybody have some experience with this?  They're fold up plexiglass windows, 10" H x 24" W.  I was thinking make them a little on the lower side to be safe?  Using 2x6's to make shelfes right underneath them, which will be braced.  Probably keep a sand bag in there too.  Any advice is appreciated!

[mlammerhirt]

In the process of building a raised box blind, base will be ~10 feet off the ground, 4x6.  Nothing super crazy, just trying to make it tight against squirrels and the elements.  
It seems like 39" is about right for the windows?  Maybe a shade lower?  Anybody have some experience with this?  They're fold up plexiglass windows, 10" H x 24" W.  I was thinking make them a little on the lower side to be safe?  Using 2x6's to make shelfes right underneath them, which will be braced.  Probably keep a sand bag in there too.  Any advice is appreciated!

Did you make the windows or but them?
I am in the process of prepping a trailer to build a blind on ..I plan on documenting the build, but was wondering about windows as well.

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

[G-Man]

All depends on how close you expect game to be to said blind, ,bow, crossbow ,or gun.. I prefer fold down window that allow for standing shot with bow, mine are 24x 18 in  in some , the new blind will have 2.5ft by 5 ft sliding windows as its 16 ft tall to base and windows will be 10in off base.. but game will be close and expecting close shots under 10 yards.  For gun or crossbow table top hight works well  as you then. Have a rest . 

[UpStateRedNeck]

9 hours ago, mlammerhirt said:

Did you make the windows or but them?
I am in the process of prepping a trailer to build a blind on ..I plan on documenting the build, but was wondering about windows as well.

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk
 

Bought them :

http://deerviewwindows.com/hinge-window-3/

 

Its primary purpose is going to be a gun / crossbow blind so my dad can hunt our food plot field in comfort.  Also it will presumably be the place I introduce my girls to hunting.  If I don't just keep making more of them.

Edited July 5, 2019 by UpStateRedNeck

[UpStateRedNeck]

I went with 37" to the shelf / window bottom.  Framing is done, time to make the door.

 

Kind of unsure about the roof.  It's got to have 4 imches of overhang on every side, so that's 2 pieces of pressure treated plywood together if I want to shingle it.  I want the roof, 4 walls, and the base to all come apart into pieces for transport.  So how do I get the roof shingled but detachable?  Joist brackets?

[UpStateRedNeck]

Oh and there's a 3 week fabrication time on those windows if you order them.  Since throwing them in is the last step, not a big deal.  

[GreenDrake]

I have built 8 boxblinds now and fount that 33 inchest up is best. However I am 5’ 8” tall so that may vary. I use adjustble swivel office chairs for the perfect hight. Too high is worse than too low in my opinion.  

[GreenDrake]

1 hour ago, UpStateRedNeck said:

I went with 37" to the shelf / window bottom.  Framing is done, time to make the door.

 

Kind of unsure about the roof.  It's got to have 4 imches of overhang on every side, so that's 2 pieces of pressure treated plywood together if I want to shingle it.  I want the roof, 4 walls, and the base to all come apart into pieces for transport.  So how do I get the roof shingled but detachable?  Joist brackets?

I made a 2x4 frame the size of the outside perimeter then used corrugated plastic roofing. I am able to carry it up...flop it over...and secure it with gusset plates. I bought 12 foot shhets and cut in half. 2 sheets are perfect. 1 foot overhang all around. 

[GreenDrake]

Using Elevators for the posts?  They are the best. 

[GreenDrake]

I also put 2x6 pieces between the studs under the window. 2 built in shelves. Less chance to knock stuff off at the wrong time

[UpStateRedNeck]

7 hours ago, GreenDrake said:

Using Elevators for the posts?  They are the best. 

What do you mean elevators?  Was going to use pressure treated 4x4s, probably 12 footers and then trim them down.  And of course cross brace them.  I ordered these brackets for mounting : 

https://www.e-ztower.com/

 

 

[UpStateRedNeck]

7 hours ago, GreenDrake said:

I also put 2x6 pieces between the studs under the window. 2 built in shelves. Less chance to knock stuff off at the wrong time

Yeah I out in the 2x6s in the front and back, same deal.

[UpStateRedNeck]

7 hours ago, GreenDrake said:

I made a 2x4 frame the size of the outside perimeter then used corrugated plastic roofing. I am able to carry it up...flop it over...and secure it with gusset plates. I bought 12 foot shhets and cut in half. 2 sheets are perfect. 1 foot overhang all around. 

Yeah I was eyeballing those today at (B)Lowe's!  Was going to mount them to plywood, and thinking the 2x4 frame under that.  Probably overkill, I tend to over engineer the crap out of everything.

 

So Greendrake, question for you :

How do you set the posts?  I was thinking dig holes, fill with gravel once it's level?  If you dig holes, how deep?  This is the part that's worried me the most since I started it.  Planning on setting it up in the middle of a partially overgrown field, brush and sailing etc.  A bit on the west side but not awful.

[GreenDrake]

I only fig enough under a post to level it.  I tether it front and back to an anchor in the ground. Mobile home anchors from Lowes. Forget the plywood under the roofing...too heavy. Elevators are same type system to receive the posts. I use strong ratchet ties from each corner to a tie out in the middle sbout 8 feet from the blind. 

[GreenDrake]

Make sure you put plenty of hooks inside to hang stuff. Come in handy. 

[UpStateRedNeck]

1 hour ago, GreenDrake said:

I only fig enough under a post to level it.  I tether it front and back to an anchor in the ground. Mobile home anchors from Lowes. Forget the plywood under the roofing...too heavy. Elevators are same type system to receive the posts. I use strong ratchet ties from each corner to a tie out in the middle sbout 8 feet from the blind. 

I'm not sure what you mean about the ratchet ties?  Got a picture?  

[landtracdeerhunter]

We have a 6 x 6 blind with 2 x 2 centered window, hinge at the top on all four walls. Bottoms are maybe 3 ' off the floor. Their are blind spots on all the corners, which we found out, could offer more shots,  if  long slender windows were installed  lan on install before this bow..We shoot out of a chair.  That blind salvaged a rainy bow season last year and some nasty hail storms  on occasion.  

[GreenDrake]

8 hours ago, UpStateRedNeck said:

I'm not sure what you mean about the ratchet ties?  Got a picture?  

 

[GreenDrake]

My blinds are also built in sections. When I get to the location I usually put the base on the ground floir side down...install the posts and cross bracing. Then flip it up...level ...and tether it firmly.  Then just carry each wall section up and install.  I have whole process down to less than an hour. 

[UpStateRedNeck]

50 minutes ago, GreenDrake said:

 

Yeah I got that part, just not sure how you use them?  You use it to tighten the 4x4's before you cross brace then?

 

I had the same plan, each wall and the roof would come in it's own section.  Throw up the bae +supports, the hauk up each section.  Gonna do a home made camo job on it too.  Might spray foam in the cracks to tighten it up.  Carpet remnant on the floor to muffle noise?

[GreenDrake]

3 hours ago, UpStateRedNeck said:

Yeah I got that part, just not sure how you use them?  You use it to tighten the 4x4's before you cross brace then?

 

I had the same plan, each wall and the roof would come in it's own section.  Throw up the bae +supports, the hauk up each section.  Gonna do a home made camo job on it too.  Might spray foam in the cracks to tighten it up.  Carpet remnant on the floor to muffle noise?

On this one I used a chain and just ine tie down per side.  On others i use 2 per side from the 4x4 bracket to the the ground. Zoom in on this picture. 

[GreenDrake]

This one I hooked the chains in the 4x4 brackets. 

[UpStateRedNeck]

16 hours ago, GreenDrake said:

This one I hooked the chains in the 4x4 brackets. 

I had pictured, in my head, the mobile home anchors being bolted into the bottom of each of the 4x4s.  Think that would work for keeping it from sinking/shifting?  

What did you use to drill those anchors into the ground?

 

I really appreciate all your advice, nice to know I'm not too far off the mark so far!

[UpStateRedNeck]

Finished the frame and door this weekend, goal next weekend is to get it ready for painting!  Hope I got the cutout for the window on the door big enough, going to be a PITA if I have to enlarge it further.

[GreenDrake]

I just spin them in using a piece of 2x4 in the slot on the top for leverage. Can be a little challenging but usually go in fairly easily. On a couple of my early stands, I added 36inch steel masonry grade stakes (with holes in them) and drove them in the ground at the base of each 4x4, then screwed them into the post. I drove them in at a 45 degree angle. I do not think they are all that necessary as I only did that on the first 2. The tie downs are most important.