sailinghudson25

Deadline for the county soul district sale is coming. Get an order in? Check out the Delaware County soil and water district, they have good instructions with seedling transplants. Get some rooting hormone from a garden center. This will help with transplants from cuttings like tips of birch trees. Collect a bunch of gallon jugs, cut the top open, poke a hole on the bottom, put a few rocks on it. Go around and fill the jugs with water at the base of the planting. Best way to water them. Get a way to move 50 to 100 gallons of water to the plants. Watering fruit trees during a hot spell helps too. 5 gallons on a tree can make a huge difference in yield during a dry spell.

I'll check out burnett, Finding those fertilizers is tough. I find the 6-24-24, the typical garden 12-12-12. I found some lawn starting stuff with other nutrients like iron, molybendium, and others I think it's 16-24-8. Not ideal, buy it was 10 bucks a bag on clearance bought 3 bags. I usually start with a garden fertilizer, then put the 6-24-24. I almost always do clover and cereal grain mixes in the past. I scratches up a weed patch and overseed clover with some lime 6-24-24 and some borax. Came out great. That was 2 years ago. That .1 acre strip I put a 1/4 bag of fertilizer and a bag of lime twice a year.

Stoneam, Do you hunt private or public land. I'd like to try public land there. I do have a cabin and an 800 acre lease, but they get pressure there. Some pressure.

I'm in a hunting club with an 800 acre lease. But about 5 serious hunters and a dozen Sunday atv drivers... Im not leaving this club, but want to track in deeper woods. I do have a canoe and a 14ft rowboat with outboard. Who does deep woods multi day hunts alone? Any tips? I got an amateur radio license and a portable 2 meter. Safety tips, ultra light gear, extra precautions, extra safety gear, or terrain to avoid in these circumstances would be gladly appreciated. I'd rather do it alone then not at all. Nobody is that into it, or is in good enough shape, or has the time. For those who drive into nutty areas, any tire advice? I got 31x20.5x15 on a zr2 blazer with a rear locker and winch. Buy chain for mud tires or some sort of studded snow.

These are made because a few states ban sabot like AZ early elk hunt. I'd go with sabots anyday. I personally use Hornady xtp 44 cal 240gr hollow points. Good expansion and Weight retention. I buy harvester ribbed sabots.

I've been reading some folks delay fertilizing a new plot. Usually newly established area and with legumes. Anyone do this? Im looking to draw deer bak to an area they leave to yard in the winter. Typical loamy sandy soil. They don't love ladino clover here a ton. I can't get equipment there often either. Thinking hairy vetch, or fall overseeding clovet with wheat. This place gets tons of snow too. Maybe a shrub plot like willows.

Was up in stillwater 1 weekends ago. A few inches in open areas, but 2ft in the dark areas. This is a great year for deer. They did yard up, but late. So they ate better for longer. The low brush won't be wiped out so soon. No tracks up near stillwatet, but the deer were loving big moose lake yards.

2nd vote for older Remington I collect pretty 1990 remember 700s. Howver, living in long island, there's nothing wrong with a pump shotgun either. I noticed few of these big woods hunters like any kind of semi auto? More jamb prone in snow? Good thing about an old gun, you can adjust the stock to your liking. A gun that fits you right is gold. That stock not fiting, the scope too close or too high. That stuff adds time to put a shot in. Not only time, but quality of the impact.

You live up there..... Nice. Learn one place very well, and get the basics of 2 other places ok. Fishing, trapping, small game, backpackinh, and canoeing. Give them time too. Also, once you get around 2ft of snow, it's a whole differect game. Learn about winter yarding areas. VT makes a good guide for managing timberlands for deer yarding. Look it up. Learn the names of features of land. Learn about shrubs and trees. It helps alot. Journal on the computer is great. I do that for my hunts. Again, GPS used well can be an awesome tool.

I love my blr, but I'd pass on buying another. The triggers are ok at best, you can't take it apart to clean, and they don't get the best groups due to the design. Coyote hunting, you'd be better off with a bolt gun. Browning makes great stuff, but a bolt action box magazine in a lever gun is tough to make well.

How big is the plot? How often are you going to be replanting? How rough is the ground. No need to buy a couple hundred dollar one if you don't need it. I'd still buy a seed spreader like the earthway 2750. Nice to have fine control when spreading clovers, or doing small remote plots, or overseeding. I also lime and fertilize brush and under a few mast trees. Handheld ones are great for that. Walk behind ones are fine, but you need decent sized tires if you ground is rough or rocky. Wash and oil the metal parts when done. With fabric handheld ones, the mice like to chew the fabric, put them away carefully.

Far as guns go, they're all good. The scope and safety is the trick. A quick shot requires you see the rectile of the scope quickly, the power is low enough to see the deer right off, the scope is set on the rings where you see a good picture right away. And the safety works well for you. I hunt with a browning blr in 450 marlin with a 1.25-4.5×32 Bushnell scope with the very thick firefly rectile. It glows in the dark too. My backup is a marlin 336 in 3030 with peep sight I hunt in pa, so my muzzleloader at hand is a 54 cal flintlock. Far as agility goes, a friend from rennselaer county who harvest bucks most years takes yoga to practice. Track hunting is done in snow. It's quieter and easier to see deer. You walk till you find track, then analyse the track. If their straight, they're moving. If they meander, then they're close to bedding down. You also look where you are and where they're heading. True trackers go hunting on a day most hunters are worried to go out there on. Swamp edges, along creeks, and on ridges where they elongate or make a path to the next ridge. South faces are generally better too. Layered clothing, comfortable boots, and good glass 7x35 ideal. 3-6 miles is not rare on foot for tracking. I still hunt, mix still to spot hunt on dry or when I'm feeling lazy or hung over, but track when there's fresh snow. On fresh snow, the deer are in very thick evergreen patches where I hunt.

You got to know when to walk, when to stop, when to go slow. Sometimes I cover a 1/4 mile quick, so.eine the next 200 yards takes an hour. Gps and good binos. 100% camo. Includes your face and hands. I have shot deer that heard me a few minutes ago. Learn the wind. Learn how a deer uses it. Learn what the does do and bucks do with wind. I glass open areas carefully, and smoothly walk through them in they're clear. A forest has routes, ways the deer go through them. Variety is the spice of life. Learn why a deer prefers a spot at a certain time. If you move while you hunt, any day is a good day to hunt. Salerno brothers, the book the still hunter too. Adirondack's I love, but the same game can be done in pa or the catskills. Learn a place, it takes a few years and lots of gps shots.... then advance to the next. Keep a journal. Also, deer are migratory. A lot of these big bucks get shot during a snow storm, because they get off the mountain and head to thick understory. Squirrel and grouse made me a still hunter.

My neighbor had a kiori. Sitting for 3 years. Front axle is broken. Another friend has a lc30 new holland. They had issues with the bellhousing breaking. Structural issue with assembled "frame". Old batteries have small amounts of cadmium in them. New ones dont. Basically a cell corossion protector. If I did it again , I'd buy a big motored bx instead of my l series. If I had more land I'd buy the M. But just an atv with 2 new plots this year. I'm finding that very useful. My old property was a wooded side of a rocky mountain. The l3200 with a tires proved it's worth. I also own a 1/4 mile long driveway. The 3pt blower and back blade were very useful to me the past 5 years.

I got a new property with 20 or so 100 year old apples trees. After getting the suckers good, don't be afraid to cut the tops down some. Did that on a few 5 years ago, they all did well. This winter was too weird for me to mess with these trees. I clearances the vines, limed, and fertilized in the fall. I also seeded some Dutch white clover under them. Most attention they saw in 30 years.....

I got a 2011 L3200 4wd hydrostatic. I like the hydrostatic especially since I got a low HP model. Infinite speed. Perfect for my snowblower. Newer than 2012 I think they got catalytic converters and electronic fuel injection. So, this could be a whole new ball game. I've only had 2 issues with the tractor. I was insistent on getting a block heater, although my dealer hesistated. It leaked right off the bat, so they came back and fixed it. It's the one that goes in the freeze plug. The other issue started today, the rpm gauge stopped. Didn't look into it yet. That was on the big snow storm wednesday. Sometimes the safety switch can get annoying. I live on the side of a mountain, so I bought Ag tires. So, I am limited to what I can do and where. I am moving to a huge yard area, so I wished I had R4's or even turf tires. Don't discredit the BX series either. I could of bought a front loaded and back hoe for a touch more htna I paid for a bare tractor with front loader. I've seen those little guys do amazing things. They also say the BX series is a bit tougher to flip over. Alot of folks think you need a 50hp tractor to do food plots. I have read that a few places. It's not true. If you want ot do 10 acres of corn, yeah OK then. A nice implement on the back of an ATV can do alot. A new tractor is alot of dough to spend.... Mine's only got 150 hours after 5 years of doing firewood, driveway maintenance, and some food plotting. I could of had a half dozen moose hunts for the same price.

Reszelj, It depends. What was there, how bad was the ph, what's in the area. Deer will come to some rhings, but they like fresh. I mostly do a clover cereal grain mix. Some things need a good frost to turn to sugar. I main mix, forage feast from plotspike, tractor supply sells it. A bit of everything. 2 bags of 6-24-24 per 1/2 acre, bate minimum 10 bags of lime per 1/2 acre unless ph is above low 7's. I've always seen 6.0 to 6.5. 6.0 is common. With that lime, I mix in 1 package of borax soap. I seed then mix it in down to 1 inch, then put 2lbs per 1/2 acre of ladino clover. Mow monthly, put 1 bag of 6-24-24, 2 bags of lime, and a 2lbs of borax soap each spring or fall. Each February buy a 1 or 2 lb of clover to frost seed. Ain't perfect but great result with low maintenance. Maybe overseed some oats April 1st if you turkey hunt. After about 3 years it gets weedy, but deer visit it just as much. Maybe till and reseed or spray with roundup. I'm hesitant to spray. I also spot weed wack specific weedy spots. Early bow.... hunt downwind of plot and not in it. Bucks sniff does daytime and maybe eat there an hour after dark or like 2am. Sometimes when they sense westher coming, they might sneak in during dusk. I used a 1 row disc towed behind a lawn mower with mean tires. Used it to mow too. Got a 32hp kubota tractor and a 4wd atv now.

Hope you find a nice dpot. UNTIL You do, Buy a tent with a woodstove. Swampy land can be good..... Check with the Dec about tree removal. Over an acre needs a permit. They might not like where you cut. Worth asking. Cut a bunch of trees right before hunting season. Might be some good bait to the area. Deer are not logger shy. They'll be back the next day.

The leases are noce. I see doe most days. I saw bear twice. Too little for me.

gredients in here's a cultivator you can get for free. Buy it for 175, separate and sell each for 100, keep the 25 for gas money. https://rochester.craigslist.org/grd/6031634670.html I'm surprised about the neglected land no till. I have seen no till done on recently turned ph corrected soil. Usually seed, then mow, then roll. To keep weeds in control, I prep the soil, then scratch it up a week later to kill fresh weed sprouts' delicate roots. Turn it a touch then seed and mix it with a pass then roll. What I'm hearing with some seeds is to delay fertilizing. Like 2 weeks after seeding. I never did this, has anyone did it. Or lightly fertilize then add later. This seem to be with plants who fis their own nitrogen. Like vetch and clover.

I'd take the minerals, mix them with a bag or two of lime and put them in the soil. Farmers buy custom mixes of fertilizer with the same ingredients in there. Is there any salt in them?

No, I'm on big moose Rd. in the Stillwater easment area. The huge independence river area to the north of me. I was hunting on the state land near my camp there. We gout our own land, but all the bunny feet were in the snow up there.

I practice at 300, but only hunt up to 150 yards when I have a good year's worth of practice. If I didn't get to the range, then I only do 100. I see people in my hunting club up north do this, buy a new fancy gun, then spook deer they didn't see because they didn't have binoculars or didn't have a half decent one. They come back early because they get cold. They come back late because they got "turned around". Hunting is about comfort, enjoyment, and safety. I'm boring... I say .30-06, .270, 30-30, or .308. You can kill a deer with a 22lr, if you hit it in the right spot. To hit it in the right spot, it takes practice. Practice takes time and money. All those cartridges are inexpensive and very capable. If you're recoil sensitive, then 30-30 or a 130gr 270 with a decent weight gun. If you reload, then it doesn't matter a ton... If you don't, might as well make it easier on your shoulder and your wallet. Also, we live in NY. You can find weatherby round everywhere. I could be wrong, but 257 weatherby is a tough harder to find too.

This is my one implement for an ATV if I only could have 1. It's a spring harrow. It tills down to 4 inches, it's really good at loosening rocks, so you just pick them up, not fight with them in the ground. Got a ton of roots in your soil? No problem, the spring collect them, tilt the harrow on the side and they roll out easy. I wish someone made these new.... Mine's easily 80 year old. But it's easy to fix, weighs little, and I can mix seed in the ground on low setting. I got my used for $100. Just buy some extra bolts and nuts if you got an older implement. S tine rakes work similar to these, which is the pic of one you had. They take more work to get them to work the soil, because they work the soil hard. However, those good sized tires can tame the till depth down. There is really no such thing as no till....... You need soil contact. However, you can have a great contact with any kind of implement you get. If you got a driveway to maintain, then get a york rake or that drag harrow (chain harrow). People have made huge rakes from lumber and screws. I've seen a great food plot implement. Take a big tire and drill a bunch of holes. Buy nuts, bolts, and washers and bolt them to the tire. Drag the tire. Flip the tire over to smooth out or mix seed.

Any hunting rifle is good up there. My concern is you think you need a 300 yard shot. So.... you look for a place to do it. Great. Enjoy your day up there. I'll be in the thick stuff where deer eat sleep play and get shot by me. That's the problem with long range guns. You want a long shot and wait wait and wait for it The best well known adiroNyack hunters out there use some real humble basic guns. Some enjoy bring their grandpa's 30-30. If you don't have a good layerin outfit setup, a good pack, good boots, good glass, or a gps. Spend money there. Seeing deer through the brush makes or breaks a hunt. Marking features for future hunts on the gps is second to a good pair of binos. Or, if on public lands, a humble canoe, boat, and/or warm tent trumps a new gun. You need these tools to do it. The extra guns are toys.....